Need help!!! Searched for hours!
 

Well i've been trying my hardest to get my 1991 S5 to run. I've searched endlessly on this forum and i can't find what im looking for. Well let me tell you that the car has been sitting for 4 years and some change and i know that things would seize up. The car ran before pefectly fine because i was going to buy this car that long ago but someone broke into it, stole important interior stuff ,and was left sitting for that long. So the owner gave up on selling it and just gave me the car for free!( the car is in pretty damn good condition in its current state! which is what i'm told by other seven guys who've seen it). I cleaned most of the fuel system (including the gas tank which took long as hell to do) I have gotten the car started with starter fluid, ran till the fuild ran out but that was before i had my injectors professionally clean. Also i replaced the fuel pump to a walbro 255 unit. I don't know if i need a fuel pressure regulator to see if i have fuel pressure. i've also tried putting oil in the leading spark plug whole? (don't know if this helps). I would love your help so any advice i will be most greatful! this was going to be my first car in high school but that unfortunate event happened. PLEASE WOULD LOVE TO GET HER RUNNING TODAY!!!!!

So what are you asking?

Yes you need a FPR, are you getting fuel into the housings?

Sorry. I was asking what else do i need to do to get her running again. one of my buddies suggested that i slowly push start it. would this be a bad idea

does it turn over fine? if it been sitting that long, squirt a little of auto tranny fluid into each rotor through the spark plug hole. this adds to compression for an easier start. then get some starting fluid and spray it into the throttle body as you crank. if this does not start it. check for spark. a weak battery also will flood the car.

there is a few ways to de-flood the car.

1. remove the fuel pump relay under the dash bolted to the steering column (if in the original place). has a yellow base and black top. then crank.

2. remove fuel feed line, clamp closed or plug. then crank. ( this will also let you know if you have fuel pressure if removing the plug or clamp from the line and if gas flows, you have pressure. but its better to test on the return side so you know fuel passed all the way though the rails)

theres many more ways, but im sure you get the idea. stop the fuel. and crank it.

after this to clean the chamber out. take out the trailing plugs and crank. it will shoot out the gunk form the motor. put brand spanking new plugs. if she still dosnt start. you have deeper problems.

if it does start, she will be smoking a lot from the auto tranny fluid. this also helps to clean off carbon and kinda repair oil seals in the motor. many people do this after a certain milage anyway to clean up the motor. just let her high idle (1500-2000) for atleast 15 minutes with a hit of the throttle every now and again. a drive with a few full throttle runs to 8k will clean out the smoke also.

Link to Aaroncake's web page
click for info to get started on this

just push start it. there shouldnt be any damage as long as u have oil in the engine.

FUEL SPARK COMPRESSION do you have them?

If the car is NA take the walboro out!

i will do this as soon as i'm home, i wanna see her moving already! thank you i'll ask you if i have any more problems. thank you
i was looking for this and couldn't find it (i don't know why?)
thank you
Yup oil was changed. looks like I'm gonna do that as a last resort thing after i do what sen2two said earlier. thanks
I'm pretty sure i have them cause it did start when i sprayed starter fluid. but like i said it was before i knew the injectors where clogged. oh and when i removed the leadings today i smelled fuel on them so that must be a good sign. I got a great deal on it, that is why i bought it cause the NA ones are expensive as god knows what, but i've been told to get a fuel pressure regulator to help adjust it if need be. if that is possible


Thank you all for posting i know you gusy are probably annoyed by these questions already!

The NA wont run or will run at best horridly and will flood very often with that pump without an after market FPR setup. It sounds like the car is flooded and guess why?

okay, okay so i'll get one asap but should i do what was stated earlier? with the auto tranny fluid and such.

also seeing as how the car is an S5 he can just floor the gas pedal and crank it. That IIRC is the way to deflood the S5's

i thought it was the other way around

should i try the seafoam method?

megan racing has one, are they any good? would this be okay for now till i can get a aeromtive or a AEM

no ATF is not best way nor is sea foam use MMO. The gas pedal on S5 cars only shuts the fuel off during cranking or pull the EGI-INJ fuse in the bay. If its that flooded you will need to crank it for ab it with the plugs out anyways. There is some custom work involved or new parts required to address the factory FPR and fuel delivery options to work with the after market FPR so it would be easiest for now to just use a OEM pump. Be careful of places like O'reilys they use the same part number to address FC,FD's, and supras fuel pumps.

marvels mystery oil is ATF

could be the fuel filter is clogged

i just changed that right now and i had one of my buddies use a mechanics stethoscope to see if the injectors where operating and he didn't hear them!?! so what else could i be missing since damn near the entire fuel system is either new or cleaned out!!!

what part of miami are u in...I can help if needed

Your post = fail
Close but not quite much higher detergent lighter body far easier to burn.

^^ i don't understand your post iceblue? well should i stop and have it towed to a mechanics shop?(rotary of course) since i don't know any other mechanical issues are left.

I read the part where you say it starts if starter fluid is used. So it's a fuel delivery problem.

So since it's a non turbo, jumper the yellow two socket fuel pump check connector. Key to ON. The pump should be heard running continuosly. Good.

Now remove the jumper wire from the connector and remove the Return Line on the left side of the engine. It's the one that does not come from the fuel filter (filter is below the brake booster area).

Now with the key ON, go jumper that yellow two socket fuel pump check connector momentarily. Fuel should flow out the return hard line. IF not, leave the jumper in a bit longer and see if it flows not. Not flowing??? Leave the jumper in for ten or fifteen seconds. No fuel? Lines are plumbed wrong or clogged or?????

Whoa whoa whoa there kiddo. Auto tranny fluid? Won't that ruin seals? Use regular oil instead, like he said he did.

To unflood an S5, all you need to do is floor the gas pedal. Simple as that.

dont use any thing besides regular motor oil. you use ATF or MMO when you know the engine is trash and want to get it runing on its last legs of its life.



do what hailers suggested, then if everything works,

yank the injectors out and sent them off to witchhunter performance.

if that still doesnt work, get a NA fuel pump. ill give you my working s5 NA unit for free. just pay shipping.

how does ATF ruin cast iron? the seals are iron. ATF just makes HUGE clouds of smoke.

Not apex, coolant. It just doesn't sound like a good idea to me. All other engines you use just plain old oil to raise compression in cases like that. I wouldn't want to put anything else in there that isn't supposed to be in there.

a little hard to understand but i have to make sure that my line are clean? and i have to jump the fuel pump with the with a battery. and what is this yellow two socket connector that you're talking about? is it located underneath the steering column?

okay let me get that please. and imma try what hailers said later today too. ill let you know what happns

well i didn't do the ATF method but this is my try with the fuel system. how can i clean the lines out?With a compressor and air hose or do i need new ones?

Look at the jpg attached.

See the yellow elect plug circled in purple?

That plug is the fuel pump check connector. IF the key is ON, and you get a piece of wire bare at each end, and put one end in one of the sockets and the other end of the wire in the other socket, the fuel pump should run all the time.

So do that. Then after you confirm you can hear the pump running, turn the key OFF and pull the jumper wire out.

Then pull the return fuel line off the engine.(see second jpg). Now turn the key to ON, and jumper that yellow connector once more. Fuel should pour out the hard line where the fuel return line was pulled off.

Does that happen?

The only reason your doing this is to see if the fuel lines/rails/PD/FPR are plumbed right on the engine. IF this is a USA engine, then the fuel should pour out when the jumper is installed. IF this is a JSPEC engine..........let it be known that the return and pressure lines in the dwg are just opposite of what is shown.

A JSPEC engine is one imported from a japanese wrecking crew in Japan. It's configured a little different than the USA configuration.

yeah i'm gonna do that tomorrow first thing but how do i u clog it if its clogged

yeah but even if they are clogged how would i be able to clean the fuel line itself?

be positive. it shouldnt be clogged.

its usally pump, filter, or fuel injectors that are gumed up.


id yank the fuel injectors and get those cleaned and checked ASAP. that way, you know the EXACT condition that they are in.

but i have all that changed and cleaned out. Just not the fuel line that runs underneath the car. that isn't cleaned out. but what i want to know is what is the best way to clean it out cause i just did what hailers told me to do and there is no fuel being returned a all?

fuel delivery
 

By the way, do you have the supply and return hoses attached to the correct lines on the rats nest? makes a big difference in my experience. :lol:

I've added a fuel cut switch to my S5 NA even though pushing the pedal to the floor supposedly cuts the fuel pump. There's nothing like being able to flick the pump on and off until the right mixture makes it take off.

good luck

^^^ i'll look into doing that

THANK YOU ALL SO MUCH FOR YOUR INPUT!!!!!! I finally got her running and it almost brought a tear to my eye. but its just the beginning and i still think i have a vacuum leak cause its idling awkward and my coolant buzzer is constantly on (im gonna change the thermostat and put coolant) but i gotta get her cleaned out right before anything else is done. AGAIN THANK YOU ALL BUT I GOT A LONG WAY TO GO!!

Make sure the sensor on the radiator is plugged in. If you have coolant in the system.

and most of all thank you rog!

okay new problems arise (i knew they where coming)

1st.)My power steering i believe blew when i was trying to put some new fluid in there. Didn't know it was clogged. is there a proper way to clean it out? I'm on a search for a new hose.

2nd.) car won't idle properly. It bounces from 1000rpms to 1500rpms after it starts up and finishes surging to a high rpm (although it did idle at 900rpm for 5 secs then started the same crap again). What i want to know is what can i search or check for that could fix this. i know vacuum leaks could be the culprit but i highly doubt because i took my time putting the UIM and LIM on with new gaskets. also on of the emissions hose broke. could this be the problem?