need flywheel advice
 

i have a 88 10AE and this is the clutch im getting
http://www.exedyusa.com/race/10952A its an exedy stage 2 clutch. now im deciding which flywheel should i get.

im deciding between this exedy flywheel
http://www.exedyusa.com/race/ZF01 i emailed their customer support and asked how heavy it was and the material. they said its "made of forged chromoly steel and weighs in at 12.0 lbs."

the racingbeat lightweight steel flywheel weighing 17 lbs.
http://racingbeat.com/resultset.asp?PartNumber=11445

or the racing beat alumnium flywheel weighing 12 pounds
http://racingbeat.com/resultset.asp?PartNumber=11448

im gonna order them soon. im leaning more towards the 12 pound ones but what would you guys suggest? only downside of getting a lighter flywheel is only harder to launch right?

also where would i get the counterweight?

I purchased an Exedy Clutch disk, Pressure plate and Fidanza 8.5lb flywheel off Ebay for $419. That is less than what RB is selling the Flywheel for alone.
The seller is gripforce-clutches.

I have run several AutoX's and one Track day at Hallet and have had no problems.

I purchased my Counter Weight from MazdaComp. Cost was $100. If you AutoX your RX-7 call them and join. Factory parts cost alot less.

I believe the total assembly with PP, FW, CW and CD weighs ~20lbs. I have never had driveability problems with my car with a LW FW.

The counterweight's come up used on Ebay and here sometimes, and I think ACT, Mazdatrix, etc sell them new.

One problem with a lightweight flywheel on a turbo car is that you supposedly lose a lot more boost during shifts because of the revs dropping so fast. I don't have a turbo, but for what it's worth I love my Fidanza 8lb. flywheel. It's not hard to start off at all, and I literally have no torque... being NA, having my aux ports wired open, and street ported with stock exhaust. I also only have an Exedy stock spec clutch, so you will probably just have to either slip the clutch out a little longer or give it more gas on takeoff.

It might be a good idea to get one with a replaceable face, which I think the RB one has. That way you can just buy that instead of a whole new one in case something happens to it. I hope this helps.

InGroundEffect, is your clutch from exedy stage 1? because the stage 2 costs about $500.

u guys both seem to have 8 lb. ones so if i get the 12 lb. one, it shouldnt be too bad with the turbo right?

I've been running the RB 12lbs flywheel for a few years now and no problem. I like it because it has the replaceable face.

Yes, it is the Factory Replacement clutch. I am running the TII drivetrain on a NA engine so the additional grip from a Stage II is not required.

You could buy that package and resell the Clutch disk and PP and keep the flywheel.

Also remember that when they state the weight of the Light Weight Flywheels it is without the counterweight. Whereas the factory flywheel weight is measured with the integrated counterweight.

I am not sure of the Counterweight's weight but I believe it is 2-3lbs. depending on year of car.

So a 12lb lightweight steel flywheel turns into a 15lb flywheel once the counterweight is added.

Also weigh the factory PP compared to the Stage II. You might be addiding weight with the stronger PP. The key is to weigh the total assembly to know how much of a difference you will have from stock. Not just the flywheel.

I think the counterweight is 4 lbs.

Good luck getting a counterweight that matches your rotating assembly.

Isn't the auotmatic trans counterweight normally used when doing a changeover to a lightweight flywheel?

also I would also do as RB recommends
"If your engine is capable of exceeding 8,500 RPM you must install a transmission scatter shield, or ballistic blanket. Failure to implement the above may result in serious injury or even death. "

ok, i just checked mazdatrix's website and it appears that their aluminium flywheel is about 12 pounds with the counterweight included. so im it is a 8 lb flywheel and the counterweight is 4 lbs? it is $480 but what brand is it? or do mazdatrix makes their own flywheels?

http://mazdatrix.com/flywheel.htm

While I do believe that my post here is going to be somewhat off-topic... (and I'll put my flamesuit on accordingly)

Does that mean that a car like the AP1 (2000-2003) Honda S2000 would have ballistic protection? It redlines at 9,000... or, even my AP2 (2004-2008) S2000 rev-limits at 8,300. I'm not asking for a definitive answer, just a guess.

I'd imagine that Honda doesn't have amazingly advanced clutch technology in relation to today's aftermarket tuning companies. So I'm betting that it does have some sort of protection.

:rlaugh: The funny part is how true that really is.

:Wconfused Do you even know what you just said?

Maybe you'll enlighten me then: I'm just saying that Honda's clutches in S2000s are nothing amazing (they're not bad, but they're nothing to write home about). However, the engine can spin to high RPMs. So should it then need ballistic protection from the clutch shattering? If "good" aftermarket clutches and whatnot need them, I highly doubt Honda would risk a lawsuit over something like a shattered clutch cutting someone's leg off.

and

Are two different things mate. I actually haven't torn apart an S2000 gearbox, nor a RX-8 gearbox but I would assume that only do they have some sort of protection, but the clutch disc itself is also thick enough and heavy enough to used at that high an RPM. Considering the types of things that Honda makes for their cars outside the US, I think in this case I wouldn't be quite so biased towards them and their after market competitors. /Rant.

the ballistic scatter shield/blankets are recommended for anyone who replaces their stock flywheel with a lightweight version, especially if its aluminum

First and for most, it is protection from liability, that way when you over rev your engine and it shatters, you can't sue them.

Second, many people buying these rotating assemblies are using them in their high powerd race cars. There for using a higher RPM after modifying the ports on the rotary. So NO you don't need a scatter sheild because your honda can go to 9000. It had been balanced and weighted PROPERLY to do so. Stock RX-7 engines weren't really balanced well enough to do so. I believed the allowable spec is something like 50 grams. (correct me if I'm wrong) and goes up to 8800 max. Some high powered rotaries go over 10,000 RPM.

Back on topic, I bought a 9 lb SR Motorsports FW. Liked how fast it reved. New owner complained that it didn't coast very well and lost speed fairly quickly.

Remember, Most if not all these wheel not only cut down weight, but change where the weights inertial moment is.

does anyone have any experience with the mazdatrix aluminum flywheel/counterweight set. $480 for both and they both total to 12 pounds.

so far im leaning towards the exedy stage 2 clutch, racing beat aluminum 12lb. flywheel and the mazdatrix counterweight (Part# 11-521A-N327). what do you guys think? will it work? and im dont quite understand what alexdimen said about the counterweight matching the rotating assembly

Mine coasts fine, and it definitely increases engine braking.

Don't quote me but I am almost sure that the RB and Mazdatrix Flywheels are Fidanza Flywheels relabled.

No reason to reinvent the wheel (no pun intended).

can anyone confirm this?

*bump*
so would this be a good setup? exedy stage 2, racing beat 12lb aluminum flywheel and mazdatrix counterweight.