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na wire harness turbo engine
im blueprinting a turbo 4 port and was wondering if when i finish and the time comes to drop it in the car should i use a new harness or how much difference there is in the na 6 port harness. if its not to much trouble then i will just use the existing wiring and modify whatever i need to, but if its not worth the effort then i will just replace it. so is it worth it and what all will i need to change?
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im in the same boat, ive read up alot on this but still have some questions to. what year car are you going to be doing the swap? i have a s4 na im going to be swapping in a s4 tII. ive read something about the knock sensor and p/s switch needing to be rewired and the bac sensor needing to be extended, but other than that it should plug right in
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As long as the engine is the same series as the engine harness, you can use the N/A harness with the 13BT.
You must extend the BACV wiring and the TPS wiring. I'm not sure if there is much else you must extend when it comes to emissions wires, as I had removed my emissions before the swap. I didn't have to do anything with my power steering and I removed the knock sensor. (I had an A'PEXi Power FC.) |
Also something to keep in mind...the harness isn't set up in the same way with its fuel injector branches. The plugs MUST be connected the way they were on the N/A engine in order to function properly. (secondaries on a separate branch from the primaries)
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Pin 3E (Front primary fuel injector) Wire colors > Lg Br
Pin 3C (Rear primary fuel injector) Wire colors > LgB BrR Pin 3H (Front secondary fuel injector) Wire colors > LgW BrW Pin 3F (Rear secondary fuel injector) Wire colors > LgR BrY ^ Same for both S4 N/A and S4 TII. Using the N/A harness, the primary fuel injectors will be on the same branch just as the secondary fuel injectors are on their own separate branch. |
i have completed most of the swap now. so far the only things iv had to do is make extensions for the trans. as far as engine everything has plugged up. i done a mach up and turbocharged the 6 port engine and had no issues and i will be finishing up the install of the 4 port this afternoon. i will be sure to post any issues that i encounter. i was told so much from others before and decided to just figure it out myself and so far it has been a breeze. but ill be updating later today.
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Also, you can depin 1R, 2K, and 3G.
1R for the N/A ECU is the P/S switch. For the TII ECU it is the knock control unit. Depin this so that the ECU doesn't read any of your steering movements as angine knock. 2K for the N/A ECU is the split air solenoid valve. For the TII ECU it is the twin-scroll turbocharger solenoid valve. Each of these solenoid valves see slightly different voltages. (Have you removed your emissions? Do you plan to utilize the twin-scroll function?) 3G for the TII ECU is the ground wire for the fuel pump relay and resistor. Your N/A chassis did not come with a fuel pump relay and resistor. It was only equipped on the TII. You can depin this wire or just forget about it. |
Originally Posted by dwb87
(Post 11195570)
Also, you can depin 1R, 2K, and 3G.
1R for the N/A ECU is the P/S switch. For the TII ECU it is the knock control unit. Depin this so that the ECU doesn't read any of your steering movements as angine knock. I will be sure to do this thanks much! 2K for the N/A ECU is the split air solenoid valve. For the TII ECU it is the twin-scroll turbocharger solenoid valve. Each of these solenoid valves see slightly different voltages. (Have you removed your emissions? Do you plan to utilize the twin-scroll function?) all ems is gone, using ht18 turbo just removed flap. 3G for the TII ECU is the ground wire for the fuel pump relay and resistor. Your N/A chassis did not come with a fuel pump relay and resistor. It was only equipped on the TII. You can depin this wire or just forget about it. |
What do you mean you "just removed flap"? The wastegate flapper door??
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Originally Posted by dwb87
(Post 11196413)
What do you mean you "just removed flap"? The wastegate flapper door??
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