N/a turbo
02-19-06, 12:14 PM
#16
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so i need to find a rtek 1.7, some 720's, turbo 2 ecu, AFM and pressure sensor and i should be better off? well looks like i an on the hunt for some parts. will i be able to hit 250hp to the wheels with set up right. If i do switch to turbo ecu and pressure sensor i will then need the FCD right. or does the rtek do that?
02-19-06, 12:35 PM
#17
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the rtek has a built in FCD... no tricking ECU... youll be better off with the tII electronics because you get boost retard from the rtek and it will idle better with the 550's.... mine ran much better with just the stock tII ECU... ive yet to get an rtek also....
yes you should hit 250.... do your parts hunt and youll be much happier... more drivability...especially at city situations.....
yes you should hit 250.... do your parts hunt and youll be much happier... more drivability...especially at city situations.....
02-19-06, 02:35 PM
#19
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All 720cc injectors are low impedance.
FCD will not work on an NA ECU and indeed it's not required.
4x 550cc is technically enough with higher pressure (upgraded pump) but I would not recommend it. You're going to want to install larger secondaries (ie. 720).
FCD will not work on an NA ECU and indeed it's not required.
4x 550cc is technically enough with higher pressure (upgraded pump) but I would not recommend it. You're going to want to install larger secondaries (ie. 720).
02-19-06, 05:12 PM
#22
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Originally Posted by toille
does the turbo ecu fit in the N/a harness or is it a pain in the *** to do. can it be done in a long weekend?
A turbo ECU is plug and play with S4 as long as you use a turbo boost/pressure sensor with it. I've driven my 86 n/a like that for grins, for some time.
EDIT: OOPS. Read some of the thread. A turbo'd n/a. Get a turboII ECU, boost sensor and afm with 550 injectors all the way around. I wouldn't buy a RTEK until you make sure you can get what you have running decent.
Last edited by HAILERS; 02-19-06 at 05:19 PM.
02-19-06, 05:16 PM
#23
tom port.. AKA streetport
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they should fit... theres a center piece i had shaved off on the injector to fit into my plug for s4... im not really sure if the plug is the same.... you also need to wire in resistors since the injectors will be low imp.
02-19-06, 06:05 PM
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Low impedence injectors (ie GSL-SE injectors or most others) will NOT fit a s5 harness. The S5 harness has oval plugs, most low-imp large injectors use square. Though, did/are you doing any of this work yourself or paying someone to do it? If you're doing it yourself, I'd strongly suggest stopping and leaving the car as it is until you know a bit more about it and the things your changing out.
02-19-06, 06:25 PM
#25
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so are you saying i cant put 720's in an S5 because the plugs arent the same. i have two injector plugs that are square and two resistors put those in the place of the oval plugs. so whats the problem?
02-19-06, 06:35 PM
#27
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see i wasnt sure about the plug dif... i dont know much about s5 since i own a s4 so im limited to knowing what next to do...sorry.. do you already have the resistors??
02-19-06, 08:32 PM
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How are you going to use a RTEK in a S5 car? Last I checked, there's no S5 version available. So, you'll need to hack apart your dash harness and install a S4 plug, then use a S4 TII engine harness, a knock box, and swap in S4 electronics (afm, pressure sensor, etc).
Last edited by SonicRaT; 02-19-06 at 08:35 PM.
02-19-06, 08:37 PM
#29
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Originally Posted by 88rxn/a
you have a s5 turbo... so is it a s5 motor???
02-19-06, 09:15 PM
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S5 harness are the same for N/A and T2 ECU. The only difference is one pin (if I remember right 2G). The N/A has a conector to the VDI while the t2 has it going to the knock sensor.
As for running the car on a N/A ECU..... you will have to retard the timing since the N/A ECU doesn't read boost. This will only be a temporary solution. If you don't do this, once you get passed 2-4 PSI, your car will detonate. Also if you retard timing, your idle will not be smooth.
As for running the car on a N/A ECU..... you will have to retard the timing since the N/A ECU doesn't read boost. This will only be a temporary solution. If you don't do this, once you get passed 2-4 PSI, your car will detonate. Also if you retard timing, your idle will not be smooth.