N/A S5 good for a PP rebuild ? (pics)
 

Hi all,

I am going PP with my miata build and a mate of mine has this S5 NA engine for sale.
It will be a weekend car, no racing of any sort so 250bhp with 9000rpm would be enough for me.

It was opened at 150 000km on the clock, still running strong according to him.

Here are the photos. Do you think i should keep the rotors and go for another set of housings and plates ? Are there some parts that are happier in a PP than others ?

Just so you know, i am not an internet dreamer, i have all the machines and tools to make a proper PP engine, and not willing to cut corners with cheap parts.

Thanks

http://nsm08.casimages.com/img/2014/...2012535171.jpg

http://nsm08.casimages.com/img/2014/...2012535170.jpg

http://nsm08.casimages.com/img/2014/...2012535169.jpg

http://nsm08.casimages.com/img/2014/...2012535167.jpg

http://nsm08.casimages.com/img/2014/...2012535166.jpg

http://nsm08.casimages.com/img/2014/...2012535164.jpg

http://nsm08.casimages.com/img/2014/...2012535163.jpg

http://nsm08.casimages.com/img/2014/...2012535162.jpg

http://nsm08.casimages.com/img/2014/...2012535161.jpg

http://nsm08.casimages.com/img/2014/...2012535160.jpg

http://nsm08.casimages.com/img/2014/...2012535158.jpg

I would use new housings, but use those old ones to practice making your PP cuts.

Why p-port for just 250hp?.

Either those pictures are lying or those are the best looking rotor housings I have ever seen with 150k miles.

I can see a slight corner seal groove which is normal, but with that many miles, the corner seal has usually chewed through the chrome. wow.

Rotor housings might be usefull for a budget build as they are, but if none of the chrome is missing they probably will come out ok after resurfacing! Also be sure to check for corrosion in the coolant channels.

Side housings look ok although they need cleaning up. 6-port end iron's are less preferable to use for a PP engine though, Because there is a lot more port to fill up with devcon. I have heard of people from down under welding in plates where the ports are to close them up, and then machining and grinding the iron flat. Still want to try that myself one day.

Rotors look a bit rusty near the grooves, and you can't tell the condition very well from looking at a picture, you need to measure the grooves and check if they haven't Vee-ed out.

The e-shaft is the least of your worries, I have yet to find a worn out one in an engine.

About practicing the PP cut, i don't need to imho. As long as you make a solid jig and cut with the proper tools, it is just a hole afterall. Way simpler to make a good PP than a good bridge imo.

I said 250hp beacause i think it is a reasonable goal for a first PP without going all out with 10krpm etc. Now, with the right intake and exhaust, if i get more, well good !
And why a PP ? Because i can and i want one baaaaadly.

jjwalker : best part is that it was 150000km of either track or spirited road driving. Best proof that the more you beat the shit out of a rotary the happier it is.

John : thanks for the tips. I was already thinking of welding a plate but was worrying about warping the engine plate. About grinding the iron, isn't it chrome coated also ? We don't get to find too many rotary engine parts in France, thats why i have to make do with what i have.
Seeing that this engine is still in good condition is damn good news then.

Here are some photos of the rotors :

http://nsm08.casimages.com/img/2014/...2012541308.jpg

http://nsm08.casimages.com/img/2014/...2012541307.jpg

http://nsm08.casimages.com/img/2014/...2012541306.jpg

Any advice on these rotors guys ?

The rotors look good.