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KelsoFC3s 04-03-09 03:04 PM

my rx7 build
 
so its officially rebuild time for my t2, so i'm planning to step it up a bit.im getting a basic rebuild,bnr stage 1 turbo, fmic, rtek 1.7 ecu,550/720cc injectors,walbro 255lph fp,boost controller,a wideband,new koyo radiator electric taurus fan etc.

my questions are...
1.can the rtek 1.7 support the bnr stage 1 turbo,i have an s5 turbo 2 and as far as i know they do not make the stage 2 rtek ecu for my car
2.is it safe to put all of these modifications on the car during the reinstallation process(im afraid ill blow my motor again during the break in period with these mods)

FelixIsGod29X 04-03-09 03:06 PM

You really should just go with a master rebuild kit and not a basic kit. You will regret it someday.

KelsoFC3s 04-03-09 03:16 PM

sorry for being vauge thats what i am doing i'm giving my motor to this guy who used to work for star mazda on 20b race cars,so i will be getting a thorough rebuild,trust me the motor is my biggest concern

farberio 04-03-09 04:45 PM

Basically you mean nothing radical in your rebuild like p-ports or bridge ports...

Are you going to street port it?

KelsoFC3s 04-04-09 03:08 AM

no i am not streetporting it or bridge port or j port or friggin bannana porting it for christs sake...i just want an answer to question 1/2

farberio 04-04-09 08:52 AM


Originally Posted by KelsoFC3s (Post 9097646)
trust me the motor is my biggest concern


Originally Posted by KelsoFC3s (Post 9099187)
no i am not streetporting it or bridge port or j port or friggin bannana porting it for christs sake...i just want an answer to question 1/2

Your build matters, yes, what port you are doing matters. If you are


Originally Posted by KelsoFC3s
being vauge

then how the f'ck are we supposed to give you good information?

So STFU noob and try searching.

Personally I would say if you can afford it get a true EMS over rtek. It will be way better in the end and you can dial in an exact tune.

During break in, don't hit boost and you should be ready to roll. Some people like to run N/A for break in to avoid any accidents like putting the hammer down during highway maneuvers but its up to you.

KelsoFC3s 04-04-09 02:25 PM

alright thanks for the info...i have searched this for about 2 days but no one really said they were doing this after a rebuild,btw sorry sounding like a dick in the previous reply,i was trying to sound sarcastic(bannana porting lol)

farberio 04-04-09 02:30 PM

The internet is wonderful at masking sarcasm, when in doubt use [sarcasm][/sarcasm] tags.

Kinda kills the whole point of sarcasm...but beats the alternative!

MazterDizazter 04-05-09 09:25 PM

If everyone's done crapping on this guy can we please give him some additional opinions...

Assuming he doesn't have the budget for standalone, do we know if the Rtek can support the BNR stage I turbo? Now if he can, what's everyone's favorite EMS?

As far as break-in period goes, would it make sense to run it n/a during initial break-in (1500 miles) and then on low boost for another say, 1000 miles or so?

RotaryRocket88 04-05-09 09:38 PM


Originally Posted by KelsoFC3s (Post 9097618)

1.can the rtek 1.7 support the bnr stage 1 turbo,i have an s5 turbo 2 and as far as i know they do not make the stage 2 rtek ecu for my car

Theoretically, a 550/720cc setup with an rtek 1.7 should be just barely enough for a BNR stage 1 at full boost. I'd go with the 1.8 and 4x720s so you have some headroom. Either way, nothing's guaranteed, so slowly upping the boost while checking AFRs will be the way to go if you want to be sure it's not going to pop.

farberio 04-05-09 10:16 PM


Originally Posted by MazterDizazter (Post 9102964)
As far as break-in period goes, would it make sense to run it n/a during initial break-in (1500 miles) and then on low boost for another say, 1000 miles or so?

Getting it to run n/a requires at least a header and a connection to whatever exhaust you have. Plus there will be misc stuff to block off and the like. As long as your not tempted into using the boost early there should be no problems. But if you are caught in a situation where you need to step on it to avoid trouble, thats where you can have problems.

RotaryRocket88 04-05-09 10:21 PM


Originally Posted by farberio (Post 9103104)
Getting it to run n/a requires at least a header and a connection to whatever exhaust you have. Plus there will be misc stuff to block off and the like. As long as your not tempted into using the boost early there should be no problems. But if you are caught in a situation where you need to step on it to avoid trouble, thats where you can have problems.

As a simpler route, you could probably just remove the wastgate actuator arm and wire the flapper open. If the wastegate flows well enough, the turbo should stay under 1 psi at the most, since the flapper will be stuck open at all times. You'd be pretty much running NA.

farberio 04-05-09 10:27 PM

Yeah I guess thats true, I am way more versed in N/A's then Turbo's so that idea didn't even come to me.

KelsoFC3s 04-06-09 01:53 AM

thx guys,i think i will go rtek1.8 and run low boost, what would be a safe boost pressure for break in,i was thinking 5lbs and not step on it until 1500/2000 miles

MazterDizazter 04-13-09 11:36 AM

Just do what you'd do with any new car break-in; stay at low RPM's and avoid boosting.


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