my new "crank case" vent
 

interesting. Let us know how it works out and your opinions.

Very nice my man, i need one as well, mines just leaking down the side of my block :( . I think ill do that tomarrow as a matter of fact, but since i have an N/A i have more room so i might just slap it near the block. What type of glue is that?

I wish I had your motivation.

abs pipe plumbing glue. it's ment for those pipes. I glued the 2 caps on.

You need to fill the catch can with steel wool or similar to remove the oil vapour from the air. Otherwise it just stays in suspension and gets sucked straight back out. Have a read of this how-to.

Note that rotaries don't have nearly as much blow-by as piston engines do.

BTW, your power steering dipstick is in backwards... ;)

haha never noticed that arrow before :)

I've been putting it off for months!

I've added to my post above...

hmmm I noticed... do the greddy and other oil catch cans you buy have stuff in them?

They all will, that's how they work. :)

:doh:

shouldn't have used the glue :owned:

damn, glad i re-read this post before i made mine.

At least the materials are cheap. Just make another one. :)

Very nice, even tho you messed up ;)

my oil neck is so clean today finaly!! :)

I wonder what my can, intake pipe, and AFM look like :banghead: :D

I have this catch can from Jegs. It's a mini filter for a go-cart.
http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/attach...&postid=118775

I have both vents, oil neck and the one on the block, plumbed to it. Is there anything wrong with the way I have this set-up? I do not have any residue in my oil filler neck, so I'm thinking it's OK, but I'd like some other input. Thanks.

lots of people do it that way

whats the difference in the tube on the filler neck and the tube coming from the block itself? You know the ones, they are right next to each other. thanks.

See the schematic in the FSM. One's for the purge valve and one's for the charcoal canister and intake duct.

See the schematic in the FSM. One's for the purge valve and one's for the charcoal canister and intake duct.

OK, I've had another think about this, and I'm pretty sure this set-up won't work at all. You're relying on vacuum from the pre-AFM inlet duct to suck fumes from the sump via the catch can, but in fact they will be virtually zero vacuum in that inlet pipe. The only restriction is caused by the pod filter, and the pressure drop at the connection point caused by that will be miniscule (fractions of a psi). Air will always follow the easiest path, and that's through the air filter, not the skinny lines.

This set-up works on factory cars because the point it gets sucked in is close to the turbo, meaning there's a restrictive intake system (airbox, AFM, TID) to create a significant enough vaccum to move the air though the lines, etc. If you moved your connection to the TID it would work a bit better. I don't think the fact that this would be sucking unmetered air should have much effect (as this is exactly how the stock set-up works), but I'm not 100% sure.

Sorry for the downer, but I figured you'd rather know. :(

NZ: How would you set it up then?

hmmm... maybe with some motivation maybe I'll T into it with my boost gauge :)

I don't think I'd put it after the AFM as I wrote on my page. not so worried about unmettered air comming in. but more towards a big vac leak causing bad running. which is what the stock check vavle prevents.

from what I can tell. the 2 stock vent lines. one goes to the tid, one goes to the UIM. under vac. the uim sucks it in. and nothing happens at the TID (check vavle closed) under boost. the UIM in pusing air into the "crank case" which then exits the case through the other line. and pushes open the check vavle and it is blown into the tid. I don't think the tid can suck open the check vavle.

Two open-vented lines running under the car. ;)
You won't get a reading. The pressure drop through stock air filter elements is usually around an inch of water (0.04psi!) and a pod filter is probably similar, so you wouldn't see the gauge move. You'd need to use a water manometer.
The stock system baffles me a bit, but I think vacuum in the TID plays at least some part in it. But yeah, I guess any pressure in the sump is going to push air through your system. Crack open the can in a month or two and tell us what you find. I'll be interested to hear. :)

Hey Scott,

I put my oil pan under vacuum as well to keep my exhaust from smoking at idle when oil pressure is still high.

I took a line off one of the many un used vacuum ports to a check valve, to the top of a see through fuel filter mounted above the oil filler (highest point) and from the bottom of the filter down to the highest vent in the oil system (the nipple right below the filler cap on TII neck). Very simple and clean install.

It sloshes oil into the filter when cornering insane (like when it makes oil level sender go off), but it drains back down and the filter keeps you from sucking in oil vapor.

It is on a little CF and alum stand I made for it- looks neat; I will post pics when I put my turbo back on next week...