My clutch pedal stays in ..help???
 

I just got my engine rebuild and since then my clutch pedal when i hold it like for when am going on reverse it stays in could this be that it needs some oil it the pedal or i need to replace it or the people who rebuild it messed up putting something back?? can somebody help me??

Check the clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, or the hydraulic line. Did you bleed the line?

thats funny that you have that prob, i was about to post the very same problem.... um i have a 88 Gxl that has never been rebuilt ( which i really should start considering) but anyways back to the topic, i really doubt it has something to do with the rebuild other than messin with the lines i guess, i changed my slave thinking it would fix the problem, but it only worked for like 3 hours, You know driving around town just to make sure.... so my guess is the Master cylinder

just to make sure we have the same problem, does it get stuck when you ride the clutch , but it fixes it self when you pump it..... its funny i rest my foot on the clutch pedal and it starts to sink after a while, scary!!!!!!

There is probably air in your lines. Bleed your clutch (or check to see if you have any clutch fluid in there at all).

had the same problem, the slave cylinder was rooted. replaced that and problem fixed. then all i had to do was was down the gearbox and get all the old cluch fluid of it

When the engine was removed the hydraulic line from the clutch master cylinder to the slave cylinder (which mounts to the top of the bell housing) may have been disconnected and when the engine was reinstalled the line was either not connected or the clutch hydraulic system was not bled properly. Just thought I'd elaborate a bit on the other comments. :)

well for my case, i already bleed my cluth line, when i put the new slave in, im just waiting now for my clutch master to get in now

The problem is somewhere in the hydraulics: clutch master cylinder, clutch slave, leaking line, air in the line, etc, etc. Did you replace the clutch during the rebuild. Masters and slaves like to give out with the new clutch... especially a performance type clutch. All of this is a fairly cheap fix.

Josh

I wonder if my issue is the same as above.

My clutch pedal doesn't stay on the floor but the engage point is only like 1/4 inch from the floor and recently it would not engage at all unless I pumped the clutch pedal to build just enough pressure to shift. I plan on replacing the master and slave and add a SS line but was wondering what everyone thought. Does it sound like i will need to drop the tranny and replace clutch and other components or will replacing the hydralics cure my problem?

If pumping the pedal gives you more pedal throw, it is likely a failing master or slave, or air in the system. Replacing both components and properly bleeding the system should take care of it. Aloha!

thanks thats what i thought but I'm still new to this car and engine. Hopefully that will fix it because I really do not want to mess with the clutch just yet.

guys this is very common so dont freak out. Just replace everything from the master cylinder on out of course after you have bled everything and you should be fine.

my clutch gets stuck too when i hold it down to long.... me and my friend checked it and it was air in it..... gotta bleed the son bitch

i have the same problem. About a month ago my clutch started sticking in. I did some research and decided to rebuild the master and slave cylinder. I had to order the slave rebuild kit and it didnt come for a couple of days so i went ahead and rebuilt the master. I bled the lines and it was back to normal again so i decided to wait till something was wrong to rebuild the slave. 2 days ago my clutch started sticking again. I rebuilt the slave and when i tried to bleed the line my clutch just kept sticking in with no pressure like it did before the rebuild. I dont know what to do next and im sure you guys know more about it than i do so any help would be appreciated.

When the pedal is stuck to the floor there is no movement in the slave correct? (just want to make sure its not a clutch or fork problem)

Now, I'v had trouble bleeding fresh and re-built slaves on these cars. I would unbolt your slave from the tranny (keeping the flex line attached) and open the bleeder.

*BE SURE NOT TO LET THE PISTON POP OUT*

Turning the slave upside down, sideways, right side up, upside down (you get the idea) with the bleeder open until you get some steady dripping.

Now re-install it and try bleeding.

I think there must be a little pocket in the slave that can trap air between where the fluid enters the slave and exits through the bleeder because Ive had this happen a few times and only by "bench bleeding" the slave and flipping it around could I get 100% pedal.

mine did similar symptoms.. it wouldnt come up all the way. i rebuilt slave and master and got a good line. the problem was none of those. it was the adjustment for the clutch arm was too weak and wouldnt push the pedal up to the position it was supose to lay at. it hung about half way. when i would take my foot and pull the pedal back up to where its supose to be it felt like it recharged itself. and then the clutch would disengage with about 1/4 the throw instead of on the floor. that got old so i adjusted it like it says in haynes manual and not it works fine. strangely there was no air in the line the whole time.