Multiple TPS same problems
 

So even after I installed my Rtek 1.7, my AWS would still kick in if I didn't start the car in gear. I contacted pocketlogger and they instructed me to make sure my TPS was adjusted correctly and my thermowax was functioning properly. I've been having TPS issues recently (surging idle, bucking at certain throttle positions while cruising) so I replaced the TPS with an S5 NA TPS. Still the same problems. So I switched back to my stock TPS, and it worked perfect for a day or two, then the problems came back. Bought another TPS for an S5 T2, adjusted it twice now, and now the car barely wants to idle. Each TPS behaves differently, and caused different symptoms.

The weird thing is that I'll b adjusting the TPS, and I'll pull the throttle cable a few times, take a reading (in ohms), pull the throttle cable again, and I'll get a slightly different reading. So I'll turn the adjustment screw a hair to correct it, take a reading, and it will be off too far in some direction. Turn the screw back the same amount I turned it the first time, and I get another totally different reading. It's like it's almost random. It's not consistent at all. I'm starting to think my throttle body has some issues.

Or maybe I'm adjusting the TPS incorrectly? I'll drive the car till it's at full operating tempand remove the intercooler (I can do that in like 2 minutes flat now). I use the two most left wires top and bottom of the TPS to test resistance (hump facing up, and facing the back of the connector where the wires come out). Maybe I'm testing at the wrong point?

Any insight guys, I'm pretty tired of changing/adjusting TPS's...

I tried adjusting the TPS with the voltage method last night with no success. Still the same problems. I noticed however that when I turn the AC on, the car idles great. I turn the AC off, the car STILL idles great. But as soon as I touch the throttle, the idle goes back up to 1100 rpms and the car leans out.

I did try tightening the nut on the throttle body (the one near all the swingarms for the TPS) and it turned a bit, but I didn't notice if maybe it turned the whole assembly or something.

The idle is somewhat irratic at times. Sometimes the AFR's will be steady at 14-15 at idle and idle around 750 rpm. Sometimes AFR's are around 19-20 at idle and the RPM is up around 1100.

Andy chance my primary injectors are all gummed up? The car has 165K miles on it, I doubt they have ever been cleaned. When I pulled the secondaries out to replace them, they were pretty gross...

Your primaries are used more than the secondaries so add that to the equation.

Thermawax adjustment seems like a good option, too.

I have "blue rtv" on all my idle adjust screws
My TPS would do the same thing, after the engine is revved it would be a little bit different

As screwy as it sounds (haha), I'd say pull the TB, pull all the adjustment screws, clean the threads, replace screws and reset, as normal.

Though it seems like a bit of a step backward, it would advance you farther, ITLR.

Well I've got a replacement throttle body on it's way at the moment. If I end up not needing it I'll just re-sell it here. Figured it would be good to have a spare since pulling my UIM isn't a job I like doing more than once.

Unfortunately, my life is sort of in a jam at the moment, and I don't have the option for the car to be down for more than a few days. So sending my primaries in to witchunter isn't really an option :(. If I'm going to replace the primaries, is there any reason to upgrade at the moment? I've got an Rtek 1.7 in the car now, I'd have to have an AFC for bigger primaries, correct? What size are the stockers? 550cc?

Can someone explain to me how what seems like a self contained mechanical system driven by expanding and contracting wax (thermowax) can be controlled via the ECU? I'm lacking the understanding as to how chipping my ECU eliminates the functionality of the wax itself....

I think you're confusing the accelerated warm up which lasts for 17 seconds with the fast idle mechanism related to the thermowax. The first one can be overridden by the chipped ECU while the other one cannot.

Ok, I have an Rtek 1.7 and if I don't start the car in gear, it still does the AWS thing. When I contacted pocketlogger, they said I should make sure my TPS and Thermowax was functioning correctly. I think there are too many systems in play here at the moment and I don't know enough about them...

when you were setting the tps the car was fully warmed up correct?

Correct. I hate adjusting the TPS on T2's. Removing the intercooler on a hot engine is "no-fun-zone".

Might not make a bit of difference but since you've had issues or appear to have issues w/the TPS, maybe reading the voltage signal at the ECU would be best so as to clear up any uncertainty as to whether is it being dialed in properly according to spec. Another thing, you might want to "temporarily add" a ground wire to the TPS and see if it makes a beans worth of difference.

With respect to adjusting the TPS when the car is warmed up how long does it take for you to remove the intercooler crap so as to adjust the TPS? If the fast idle cam starts to move before the way can be cleared to adjust the TPS then you won't be able to adjust it at the proper time. This is why checking it at the ECU is a good idea. If worst comes to worst you could fabricate some pvc pipe to connect to the car so the car could be run while or just before you make your adjustments.

I can have the intercooler off in under three minutes. And it certainly isn't cold outside. Where about's do I test the voltage at the ECU (which pin)? And it wants to see 1 volt right?

Also, as of recently, after I shut the car off in the garage, a somewhat strong gas smell sort of permeates the air a bit. Don't see any gas leaks around the tank or filter. And my secondaries aren't leaking. Primaries could be for all I know, but hopefully I'll be replacing those soon anyway. It only smells like that after the car is shut off. I know I have a small oil leak around the turbo somewhere too, as tiny bits of smoke come up around the turbo after sitting for a few minutes.

I guess my point is that it's another clue towards me thinking the primaries are causing some issue too. I have to say, if I had to hazard a guess, its a few systems not functioning correctly. Especially since sometimes the problems are intermittent.

Pin 2F is the narrow band reading and it should be 1 volt at idle and 5 volts at full throttle which is when the TPS is fully extended. Of course the engine needs to be fully warmed up before the reading is taken. When you have the intercooler off can you tell if the fast idle cam has separated from the roller pin?

Not sure about the smell of gasoline other than to ask you if the Charcoal canister has been removed. Also, you could jumper the fuel check connector and w/key to on you'll be able to observe for possible leaks.

I wouldn't know what to be looking for honestly...

Have you set/checked your ignition timing?

I would suggest going the pvc route in place of the intercooler. Use the LED method to set the tps (it shows what the computer is seeing). adjust idle stop screw (to set idle), then adjust tps again. Reinstall the intercooler, and enjoy.

Get a mirror with a flashlight to check/adjust the cam roller position.

Did some digging the other day. The one primary I could see was leaking out of the clip. So I'm not sure how many of my problems I can blame that for, but I'm moving in the right direction. I'll still be replacing the throttle body, as I already bought one. Although it is taking a strangely long time to get here.....

have you guys ever herd of a "panspeed" racing chip?

^^Random....

Another question, the new TB I ordered doesn't appear to have the thermowax set to where the FSM says to have it set (in relation to the cam roller). Should I even mess with it?

You most definitely want it set up properly because it it very hard to adjust when on the car and so on. Take a pot of boiling water and pour it over the thermowax and watch to see if the cam roller separates from the pin completely. If it doesn't then make adjustments so it does.

The FSM shows at 77 degrees Fahrenheit the roller should rest on the upper mark on the cam. Mine rests between the two. I adjusted it so that it was resting where the FSM said it should, but then it sort of defeated it's ability to close the throttle plate. Does that make sense?

I'll post pics a little later tonight.