Moving Idiot Cluster Warning lights(diagram included)
 

I just got my Triple guage pod from 5ONE5 Innovations so I need to find some where to put my idiot cluster since I still think they are useful.

I haven't decided where to put them yet but I am leaning towards right under my radio in the aftermarket stereo kit blank spot. I will leave the main unit in it's place but with the front removed for clearance of the pods.

I am pretty sure I've found a very easy way to get this accomplished.

First I pulled the cluster out and I removed the clear plastic.
Then the white plastic light seperators.

Your then left with the circuit board and the useless clock.

So,
I pulled back the first board with all the LED's and checked out the routing.

Here is what I found.
https://img189.imageshack.us/img189/...labeled5vv.png
The red is the power and the green is the switched ground which is for each light.

So I found a low tech and easy way to relocate them.

All I do it cut the ribbon that joins the 2 boards and solder in a new wire from that point.
I've noted which wire is each light so you can just grab the ones you want or all of them.

https://img450.imageshack.us/img450/...im000678rn.jpg
It's kind of hard to see but in the center is a jumped power which conveniently has a hole already in the board. So I just put some wire in there and soldered it in.

I now have my power reference for where ever I want to put my new lights.

So I soldered in my power wire and cut the ribbons out.
https://img480.imageshack.us/img480/...im000688ip.jpg

I plan to run one main power and then make some type of distribution block at my lights.

I'll take more pics once I get the small gauge wire for my ground references.
I also plan to use the whte plastic part and the see-through film with a bit of cutting.

I'm just going to buy some LED's and expoxy them directly into the white plastic.

::EDIT::
You could have also cut the power ribbon as well but I wasn't sure if it powered any other part of the board. So be careful on the ribbon closest to the clock. It has 5 wires and o0ne is the power.

Those are not LED's, they are normal incandescent bulbs. If you want use LED's you'll need to use 12V ones with a built-in resistor, or use normal LED's and add your own resistors.

Yeah I figured that. I just got lazy and called them LED's.

I've got a bunch of 3V LED's.
It was 2bucks for 20 compared to 1 12v LED for $1.50.
What resistor should I get?

I'm not into electronics that much but I should be able to just put the resistor on my power line instead of each ground right?

Here is a pic of my current state. Wires soldered and run.
https://img209.imageshack.us/img209/...im000695bk.jpg

Interesting project idea... keep us updated. Cant wait to see the finished product.

i dont see a point
but i see some very interesting tecfhnique in customizing.

i love it!

i really like this.
please keep us updated

How is there no point ??

I for one like knowing when my hatch or doors are a little open...a lot of passengers lack brain.

Corey,

The basic premise is that LEDs are digital devices, so they are only make to operate on a 0-5v scale with 3.3 or so being the norm. If you polarize with 12v, you will burn out the semiconductor. So you need a resistor thats rated to step down 12V to around 3 or so. You will need the power draw of that LED to calculate the resistance you will need.

i concure ^

The label for the LED's has 20mA
Does that help? :D



-The point of this is to keep the idiot lights while using the stock location for my triple guage pod.

I am coming up with 450 ohms.. My Ohms Law math is a little rusty...

This thread could be archive material! :)

i just pulled the harness long enough to relocate the whole idiot cluster but to each his own.

I think I'm going to go the even easier route.

The Stock bulbs have the two wires just wrapped in an S type pattern around the plastic housing.

I just unwrapped it so they stick straight out.

I didn't move the entire unit because this give you much more versatility.
You can select the certain lights you want to keep and you can also mount them any where.
You could drill small holes and just use the bulbs themselves.
A pillar/Stereosurround/gauge cluster/etc.

With the stock unit your stuck to a certain length and you have to find a place to fit the entire unit.

I think I found a good spot. On my steroe surround there is a small plastic bar under the stereo.
I'm going to check it out but I might be able to just cut the back out and run a sliver of the pics there.

You need to calculate size of the resistor to get the right voltage drop through the resistor. Remember you see up to 14.5V when the engine's running, so you need a voltage drop of

V = IR, so R = V / R = (14.5V - 3V) / 0.02A = 575ohm

If you want to use a single resistor to power all of them you need to consider the resistor's power handling.

P = VI = 3V x 20mA = 60mW each

So a 0.5W resistor can handle up to eight of those LED's. If you're doing all twelve warning lights you'll need a 1W resistor.

So why aren't you just relocating the whole cluster?

Ahh.. I computed for 12v not 14v. Oh well.. Sue me.

Ok, I'm almost done. I just have to make some male/female plugs so thr front board and the cluster harness can be easily removed.

BTW through this I HIGHLY recommend making a map to designate what color wire you are using and what wires related to each light.

Then use some tape and make tabs labeling each wire.

I keep things so I still had my bag of misc parts from the Audio installation kit.

It had a perfect piece which fits right below the stereo.

Below is the Warning lights trimmed down to fit in/ The stereo bezel/The Light seperator
http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/1530/rim000710qy.jpg

Then The Lights glued into place. Nice and some what stock looking
http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/8615/rim000726sw.jpg

The light seperator being trimmed down
http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/7218/rim000737gw.jpg

What it should look like with overnight parts from Japan.
http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/2520/rim000740ap.jpg

Back of the housing with the lights wired and glued in.
http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/2790/rim000751ga.jpg

The final product and the piece taking it's old place.
http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/9366/rim000768df.jpg

looks much better than my install, unfortunately i couldn't justify charging $300 in labor to relocate the idiot cluster, heh. :)

Yeah I could have used the PCB board but this way could help others that may want to get creative with their placements later on.

SO yeah It could have been done easier. I've already done this so I'm sticking with it :P

Now I just have to worry about my solder joints and stuff holding up to the vibration of daily driving. Oh well, It was fun doing it.

that turned out pretty sweet, good job:)

Final Install pics.

https://img507.imageshack.us/img507/...im000822xr.jpg
https://img198.imageshack.us/img198/...im000855cw.jpg

I tweaked the pics to brigten them up but it was night and my rear hatch is limo tint so not much light came in.

https://img198.imageshack.us/img198/322/rim000798ii.jpg

The pic doesn't do it justice. It blends perfectly into the surround. You'd think it came that way.
https://img501.imageshack.us/img501/...im000806yl.jpg

And for the hell of it. Here is what I'm installing tomorrow.
https://img501.imageshack.us/img501/...im000831yf.jpg

take a picture of the idiot cluster when all the lights are on when you turn the key:P looks good.

^

Pic of it on and them lit up.
https://img87.imageshack.us/img87/8205/rim000976gn.jpg

Only bad part is the fuel light crapped out and I'm not getting power to my AFR guage but that's the least of my worries. :)

Nice work!