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Mods/Upgrades
I got a stock 88 RX7, NA convertible, was wondering what are some things i can do for more performance, horesepower, etc. New to this as some of you may already new from prior posts. Keep in mind that i'm only 19, and just a sophmore in college, hehe so money is limited. Suggestions are open, or links to other Rx7 urls that give good information on what i could do to help.....I wanna beat some hondas!!!! lol, ni'm tired of seeing them everywhere i go.
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turbo 2 engine/drivetrain swap. best bang for buck (unless you want to go into the realm of v8's)
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turbo2 is definitely best bang for buck if you're aiming high, but if you really like sticking with your N/A or your goal isn't that high, check out the "beefy NA" thread in the 2nd gen. archive
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Originally Posted by NOPR
turbo 2 engine/drivetrain swap. best bang for buck (unless you want to go into the realm of v8's)
Truthfully though, your power mod options are fairly limited, especially with a naturally aspirated model. You could always go the Intake/Header/Exhaust route for a little extra power. If you can source some underdrive pulleys that's a route to go. Also (I haven't seen these in a while though), if you can find Dual Alternator Pulleys - that's good for a few more as well. I'm pretty new to RX-7's and am just pulling on knowledge gained from a friend a few years ago, so take everything I say with a grain of salt. |
lol I was going to say that isn't a conver. but heres are some sites, for a vert i would just rebuild engine, port the shit out of it, new exhaust, standalone or piggyback depending on your funds, clutch, weight reduction, new radiator, upgrade oil cooler, take off emissions. I can think of more but just to lazy.
www.a-spectuning.com www.atkinsonracing.com www.racingbeat.com www.gothamracing.com |
Originally Posted by gingenhagen
turbo2 is definitely best bang for buck if you're aiming high, but if you really like sticking with your N/A or your goal isn't that high, check out the "beefy NA" thread in the 2nd gen. archive
How to make a beefy N/A? Need your recommendations! |
Thank you for the help!
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mazdaspeed7
Times, dont know yet. Low 14's, im sure. I raced a 300Z TT with intake 0-100, and lost by a car and a half, and I was dealing with timing problems then. Just a few days ago I had a little run with a 96 or so Cobra, 90-125 or so. I was behind him, but he did not pull an inch on me, and towards the top of 4th, I started inching closer to him. Heres my current mods: cone filter TB mod ported intake manifold and black plastic elbow RB dual outlet headers-->true dual exhaust all emissions removed, including air pump 6 port sleeves removed electric fan UD pulleys, main and alternator TII fuel pump and 550 cc secondaries A/c and p/s removed Crane Hi-6 NGK plug wires timing advanced some weight reduction...~2600 lbs coilovers Coming within the next week: Mustang MAF sensor(the 73mm hot wire type) bored out TB nylon inserts to smooth out the 6 ports a little more work to the intake manifold Add to mazdaspeed7's Reputation Report Bad Post timing advanced coilovers Crane Hi-6 TII fuel pump and 550 cc secondaries UD pulleys, main and alternator TB mod and what the heck he took off to get his Rx7 at 2600 pounds. and one more thing, is removing the p/s worth it?, cuz it will be my everyday car as well as a race car....the gray GXL i am giviing to my lil brother. |
Originally Posted by Musada
mazdaspeed7
was wondering if anyone could explain a few of these mods to me..... timing advanced coilovers Crane Hi-6 TII fuel pump and 550 cc secondaries UD pulleys, main and alternator TB mod and what the heck he took off to get his Rx7 at 2600 pounds. and one more thing, is removing the p/s worth it?, cuz it will be my everyday car as well as a race car....the gray GXL i am giviing to my lil brother. coilovers = fully adjustable suspension Crane HI-6 = CDI (Capacitative Discharge Ignition) which gives a stronger spark T2 fuel pump and 550cc secondaries = more fuel which is required if your car starts pushing much more horsepower than stock UD pulleys = underdrive pulleys, which slow down accessories, which frees up more power for the car TB mod = removes secondary throttle plates, which trades low end for top end power for weight reduction, pretty much remove everything you can find, haha. Some of it is sound dampening stuff, spare tire, tools, etc. as for removing power steering, it supposedly puts you more in touch and more in control. But not having power steering really sucks when you're parking or anything at low speeds. Once you're up to speed, not having ps isn't so bad. |
Sorry, but you got one of the slowest FC's ever built.
Some of those Hondas are quick. It'll be a royal waste of time trying to chase them down. Since you don't have the money, just enjoy ride. It takes a $30k Honda to match your convertible. -Ted |
Originally Posted by gingenhagen
T2 fuel pump and 550cc secondaries = more fuel which is required if your car starts pushing much more horsepower than stock
That said, Musada - I would go with the usual intake and full exhaust for a little more power. You can also buy a piggyback fuel controller like an S-AFC or e-manage and have it professionally tuned. Verts aren't known for their speed due to their excessive weight and lack of turbo (unless you do an engine swap). |
Something that hasn't been mentioned is the '88 vert has a 3.90 open diff. Replacing the 3.90 diff. with a 4.10 LSD is a consideralbe improvement.
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Well maybe i shouldn't give my lil brother my old GXL, lol...and build it instead....nah i wanna look pretty ad fast, so i'll stick to the vert
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Originally Posted by jpd3253
Something that hasn't been mentioned is the '88 vert has a 3.90 open diff. Replacing the 3.90 diff. with a 4.10 LSD is a consideralbe improvement.
With a limited budget and daily driver status, you're restricted in what you can do. Focus on easy bolt on stuff - exhaust, lightweight flywheel, suspension, etc. It'll make the car a little peppier and fun to drive. |
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