mircotech for N/A
 

hi guys,

plan to fully mod my S5 to the point of every imaginable mod other than internal porting and such.

the list:

- K&N cone re-routed for cooler air
- SUperflo cat
- RB catback
- lightweight flywheel
- SAFC2
- Hi-6 ignition
- NOS wet system

so the question, is it worth getting a microtech to eliminate my AFM and not need separate units to control my ignition (hi-6) and AFR (SAFC2)?

The microtech is really nice becuase the MAF is very resitricting on airflow. If you want to make the most of your car, then get the microtech...

btw, how much is the microtech and where can I get it?

yeah thats what im wondering too

I'm running a microtech on my N/A, well worth it I believe.

http://www.microtechefi.com

thats the official website for the product.

wait theres like 7 different microtech things, which one is the one everyone talks about getting here?

the LT8...

i guess the question becomes.....is the benefit of loosing the AFM really that much? coz if its only 5 hp....im not getting a standalone for 5 hp........

^ I agree and I wouldn't either if that were the case. But if Im gonna get better gas milage with it, eventually it will pay itself off. Im sure that this helps with fuel economy as well.

Without the AFM you could just make a small 3 inch pipe that connects to the throttlebody and then have your cone filter, instead of this long ass restricting tube. Im sure its worth more HP if you do some TB boring as well with it.
Its just all about future upgrades if you get themicrotech imo.

*EDIT*

DAYUM, I just checked the price of the LT8 on that website and thats insane! Im almost ready to pull a retraction for the above text ;)
I dunno if its worth 1200 bucks AUD... christ.

well the long piping for the cone filter atually helps with low end tq due to increased air velocity (longer the pipe, faster the air moves).

by directly connecting the cone to the TB, uve just allowed alot of hot air to get into the air intake, which decreases power.

i think ill just stick to an SAFC and Hi-6.....my future plan is a 50-100hp wet nitrous and the Hi-6 is retard adjustable anyways.

See you can tell that Im 100% on the ball with how to tweak out an engine ;)

I didn't know that, thx midnight..

But if thats true, how come muscle cars and even some of the older carburated rotarys thats I've seen have the air filters right on top of the carb, no piping? is it becuase they are carbed they get better performance that way?

i honestly dont know why carbs r like that.........but for EFI, especially rotaries due to the higher engine temps., the further away the intake opening is, the better coz of the cooler air.

So is it just a temperature thing? Or does it help make the fuel/air mixture denser having a longer intake for the FI?

well the cooler the air coming in, the more power an engine can make. hence y u need intercoolers for turbos and superchargers.

so by moving the air intake away from the heat of the engine, the cooler the air is that comes in, the more power the engine can make.

the longer tube really just allows the owner to plumb as far away from the hotter air as possible............and it just so happens to help with tq

Completely untrue. For starters, the length of a pipe has nothing to do with the gas velocity. You're getting confused with area. And resonant tuning takes place in the individual intake runners, not in an intake pipe, so torque is barely affected by its length.

You're right on the intake temps though, and that's the only reason to mount a filter on a long pipe. It allows the filter to be placed where it can be more effectively shielded from the hot engine bay.

No, it's because they think it looks cool, and "it's always been done that way". The physics is the same whether carb'd or injected. Cooler air means more power. Most OEM carb set-ups still had ducting of some description, although it often wasn't very effective.

Well then that would mean that having the air filter ontop of the carb would be best, not becuase its cool (not literally speaking). Its away from the engine heat, and its right out in the open where theres colder fresh air everywhere, makes sense to me.
Also there is less distance the air has to travel to get to the engine.

Unless you're talking about a carb poking through the hood, your post makes no sense at all. How is sitting right on top of the engine "away from the engine heat"?

:werd: The filter sitting on top of the engine would get heat soaked very fast, especially if it's right under the hood.

well when you guys think about it, do you think guys with huge ass V8s really care about loosing HP due to heat?

If your talking about the big v8s that drag race then you might want to remember that they're running alcohol which does not require cool air to burn since it burns much easier and cooler anyway.

Production cars with big v8s do have CAI. Older cars from the 70s usually had some kind of ram air from the hood vents going directly to the air filter or something similar. CAI is nothing new and does creat a noticeable HP change.

Also, CAI helps prevent detination.

This thread hurts my brain...

OK, yes, the Microtech is "worth it" on an NA. But only if you can get it tuned. For NA, I believe that the Haltec is a better choice since the Microtech only has a vacuum map every 5" from 30" to 0", then it starts the boost map. The Haltech will allow you to those points where you desire in the vacuum map, instead of "wasting" them in a boost map that will never be used.

The AFM is not much of a restriction. Anyone who thinks so has not done any testing. It was 1987rx7guy that proved this by testing the vacuum generated between the engine and AFM. It was very marginal.

And for those complaining about the price of the Microtech: What do you expect? The LT8 is a fully featured EFI/ignition controller. It completely replaces the stock system.

thanks for the response Aaron.

heres what popped into my head as i was reading it. ive planned to get a crane cams and SAFC to tune retard (upon going nitrous) and AFRs. Since the AFM isnt a huge issue after all, what other benefit will going standalone give me instead of just getting the 2 other units to tune my car?

im sorry for the noob question......im new to the idea of going standalone for N/As

I agree the haltech would be a better option for fuel economy's sake, however the map points for the microtech are quite ample.

I certainly have much better than stock part throttle driveability and power with the microtech.

Not sure about economy though as I ported my engine at the same time.. so.. hmm not sure.

however I know I, and many other people have said this many times...
Buy the computer that the tuner whos going to tune/install it, is most familiar with.

ie, A well tuned microtech would shit on a poorly tuned haltech anyday in any respect.

Its away from engine heat becuase there is a hood in the way...
I was also refering to the cars with the spacer in the hood and the carb sticking out of the hood with the filter...

I also said this is the best placement, not the most practical as yes it would fuck up in the rain...

If we are numerically speaking than I can add to this. Through my lengthy discussion of a well known Microtech distributer/tuner he had told me by axing the AFM will net you atleast *10* hp when going with a standalone.

You'll need one for the leading, and either two boxes or one duel channel box for the trailing.

OK.


The standalone is worlds better then the stock ECU in every way. Newer, faster, cleaner, tunable, adaptable to anything. The major benefit is, of course, that it gives you complete control of your fuel and ignition system.

It's interesting how this is worded. :) Is that gain really from the lack of AFM, or from the properly tuned standalone, or both? ;)

Honestly, for 99% of people, the AFM is a nonissue. I personally know of someone with a 13B-RE in a 1st gen, running the TII injection system (complete with AFM). 60-1 compressor on TO4E hot side. That car was a rocket...easily close to 400HP.