Metering Oil Pump Vacuum spider, which ones to cap off when premixing?
 

I've been scratching my head for the past hour and I haven't figured it out yet. There are five places for vac lines and I know that four of them went to the oil metering nozzles.
What is the fifth for and do i CAP them all off?
I'm really confused.
The person that helped me pull the engine had more experience so I didn't say anything, but we didn't label any of the lines or wires.
Sort of a pita getting everything back together.

There are 4 oil injectors, and 4 vacuum lines that plug into the tops of them. The 4 lines converge into one hose running to the UIM (the "spider"). I don't know what 5th vacuum line you're talking about, but it is not related to the oil injectors. You probably pulled off an air bleed hose or something.

Slitherz, how far are you from Eville? I would have come help you pull the engine if you had contacted me.

if your premixing you can remove your entire oil metering system.

I know there are 4 oil injectors and 4 vacuum lines.
But where the vacuum lines go for the oil injectors there is a 5th "nozzle" for a vacuum line.
It is all in the same area, and I can't figure it out.
It is like this, ----------------O
0 0 0 0

The bottom 4 0's are the nozzles where the vac lines for the oil injectors go (I'm pretty sure).
The fifth 0 is the unknown nozzle that is at the end of the vac lines.
Does the MOP have a air bleed hose?
I'm sorry that this probably was the worst description possible but my car is 20minutes away so I couldn't get a picture.

Thanks, I actually moved to eastern Kentucky though. I did live 45mins away.

they have check valves, you can leave em alone

maybe you can search engine pics here and find us one of the area you're speaking of, cuz your little drawing didn't really help me

1-4 are the oil injectors, and 5 is the primary fuel injector air bleed. I don't know how you're confusing things, since the vac connections for the oil injectors plug right into them. Nothing else under the manifold is related to them.

This is all on my S4 TII, so there may be some differences with whatever year/model you're looking at. S5s will have secondary air bleeds on the LIM.

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1298350681

Thanks for the help. Mine is completely different than what is showed there.
The bleed for the primary fuel injector is connected and doesn't go where I'm talking about.
I never disconnected it.
There are no vac lines on the primary or secondary injectors that aren't already connected.
I will probably just block off all five and just hope that nothing explodes.
Since they are just vac lines the worst case scenario is that it will mess the idle up and run horrible; i.e. my apex seals won't fly out the exhaust b/c of it?

The s5 MOP has a spot for a vac line so I've concluded that the fifth spot on the spider is for the metering oil pump.
I'll find out tonight I guess....

It's a 4-way splitter. Air comes in one hose and out 4 others. That's why there are 5 hoses.

Well put. Clear and concise.

The air feed line to the spiders larger nipple comes from the back of the throttle body on a series four and if it's a non turbo series four it comes from the front of the throttle body.

Capping off the air feed to the oil injectors is not a plus thing to do. Especially if the OMP on the series five is still bolted on the engine and is still feeding oil to the oil injectors. Cutting off the air to the injectors causes MORE oil to be sucked into the injectors, not less.

Okay I understand that.
I should have probably said this early but I have blocked off the OMP.
The engine I bought has a s4 front cover so mine wouldn't bolt on.
I bought the Banzai racing block off kit.
So in this case I do need to go ahead and cap all five of those lines correct?
All of this is new to me and I have been searching this along with all the other problems I've encountered this week.
The FC Love/hate bug really has me right now.

You should cap off the tops of the injectors and the oil feed line too. On each one of them.

Some people remove the injectors and store them away. Then find a bolt that will replace the injectors. Bolt size I don't know off hand.

Plug the nipple on the manifold. That's where the source air comes from. The 4-way splitter could be eliminated completely.

With the Banzai kit there are screw-in plugs to replace the OMP nozzles so the nozzles will come out completely. If you want better advice some pics of your setup would help.

Thanks, I was actually still confused about what to do with that nipple. :nod:
I'm re-doing my vac lines tomorrow and if I need advice I'll post some pictures up here.

i think the 5 caps you say you need are the 4 oil injectors and the port on the throttle body. but if you are doing away with the omp you really should remove all the oil injectors and plug the holes. you can get a kit that has all the plugs you will need

Install the OMP and injector removal kit, then put a vacuum cap on the nipple on the intake manifold.

http://www.banzai-racing.com/S4_omp_bop_install.htm

get Banzai kit

Figured I'd inform everyone that my car is running now, not driving because of the clutch, but it doesn't seem to have any vac leaks or fluid leaks; other than a small where the water pump is, maybe a drop every four hours.....
I capped off the five lines for the MOP; the four that went to the nozzles and then the one that I think went to the LIM?
I put some rtv sealant in each of the caps to make sure that they were secure.
The idle seems to be really steady and is around 800-900rpm.
I haven't adjusted anything yet, but I think that my first engine swap and short block assembly has been a success. :nod:

With the banzai kit, do you use some kind of sealant with the injector plugs?

Sorry, more specifically...

Is red loctite ok to use on the threads for the injector plugs that come with the kit? I know it has a +400 degree temp rating. I was not sure if any other product was suggested, black rtv or something similar.