Low end torque?
 

So my mom has this 1989 B2600i 4x4, and with her lack of maintenance and the already ticking valve lifters, I'l gonna get it soon with a dead engine...

So yeah, toying with ideas here, I was thinking of putting a 2nd gen (Probably Series 5) engine in it...

Problem is, it's a fucking truck. Drive train loss is a bitch and it's designed for hauling shit.

So yeah, I need the most low end torque I can get.

I was thinking using a High compression N/A engine, 6 port actuators run off the air pump, high flow cat, maybe a supercharger on low boost...

I do know from the 1st gen SE engine, that removing the 6 port acutators messes up your low end a little bit.

I at least wanna reach the stock numbers of the 4cyl 2.6l engine, which I don't think should be all that hard, but if I can surpass em, cool.

Pretty much the boinger, ecu and all it's related junk will come out, and the rotary will go in with a stock RX-7 ecu. Maybe the RX-7's fuel pump has higher flow rate, Not sure if it'll fit in the tank though. Perhaps an inline pump.

Again, this is just playing with ideas... It's a free truck, and there's plenty of FC's in the scrap yard here.

dont worry so much about making torque, get a stupid low rear end ratio like 5:1 or higher, the lack of top speed should be a big deal. and a strong clutch. youle be able to tow anything.oh yeah, get a turbo trany to handle the extra strain. the na tranny doesnt have a hope against that kind of load.

if you realy need torque go turbo

wait none of this stuff is gonna drop in, are you realy that dedicated to fabricarte a rotary truck? if so good luck man

Many people on here have built B series pickups with rotaries, I'm sure there'll be some help...

Tranny on the B series and Turbo were of the same series I thought... The rib cage housing type... So it should handle the power.

Bell housing might need changed to fit the engine... Mounts shouldn't be too hard.

Turbo engine? I thought it was all top end cause of the turbo lag and the fact that the turbo doesn't produce any boost until a certain RPM.

Like I said. It's just playing with ideas.

The turbo engine has a ton more low-end torque than the N/A.... Granted you need some load on the engine to produce boost..but its almost instantaneous.

Turbos are great torque multipliers, if your going to seriously do this and don't have any particular reason to stay N/A then please for the love of all humanity put a turbo motor in there... You will not regret it (over an N/A motor that is...)

I can't remember what year...but i know for sure 1983 Mazda B2000 had rotaries in them

B2000 has a 2 Liter 4 banger in it... Hence the 2000
My B2600i has a Fuel Injected 2.6 Liter 4 banger in it...

You're thinking of the Rotary Engine PickUp sold in the mid 70's... Affectionately known as the REPU... Was basically a B1800 with a rotary in it.

Okay, so how can I build a turbo engine with reliability? I know the N/A's are bullet proof, and I know the Turbo's smudged the rotary's reputation... However, this is granted that people didn't maintain them and tried to get power by upping the boost without fuel system mods...

So I'm thinking at least the following:

Premium Gas
Aluminium Radiator from Ford Ranger 3.0 or 4.0 V6
Oil Cooler
Huge FMIC... Perhaps from Isuzu Turbo Diesel

Larger injectors... What from?

What else?

Also, How do you convert from kW to HP and torque from NM to Ft/Lb...

Stock 2.6l 4 banger has 92kW@4600 RPM and 206NM@3500 RPM...

I know the S5 Turbo RX-7 has like 200 HP peak and 196 Ft/Lbs... Not sure on the RPM's but I'd bet they're higher than the Truck's...

Put an aux-briged S5 n/a with renisis rotors in the truck :D

yeah thats gona make torque:p:

There are several people who've done B2000 rotary conversions and at least 1 3 rotor guy.

Stock 2.6l 4 banger has 92kW@4600 RPM and 206NM@3500 RPM

Stock 2.6l 4 banger has 125hp@4600 RPM and 152ft/lbs@3500 RPM

86-88 NA = 146 HP @ 6500 RPM w/ 138 Ft/lb @ 3500 RPM
86-88 Turbo = 182 @ 6500 RPM w/ 183 Ft/lb @ 3500 RPM
89-91 NA = 160 HP @ 7000 RPM w/ 140 Ft/lb @ 4000 RPM
89-91 Turbo = 200-202 @ 6500 RPM w/ 196 Ft/lb @ 3500 RPM

now you can compare them all...

um, premium gas is not going to improve the reliability. A 13bt will not detonate on 87 octane. If you retain stock boost levels then you only need to use 87. To retain reliability you won't need a new radiator or intercooler other than what is standard on the TII's. They are sufficient for regular driving. Make sure you have a good thermostat, that seems to be the source of alot of heating problems. Make sure that if you do put in a turbo engine, you change the oil every 3 months or 2,000 miles. Don't overheat it (which shouldn't be a problem with the stock cooling system) and that should be all you need. Keep it cool and lubricated and it is a very reliable engine.

Ah... Gotcha. So in stock form, the 13BT is actually reliable... Didn't know that... guess it's teh people who mod them that mess em up.

Wow... Any rotary makes more power than teh stock boinger, and even N/A torque ain't too much lower... That boinger sucks. S5 Turbo would be my best bet.