Looking for help No rpm signal for cranking after engine gets hot
 

So let me preface with I have switched to a Haltech ECU but it had been starting just fine on it since mid March til up about 2-3 weeks ago. I started having a no start situation after driving the car around in the summer heat. If i wait like 5-20 minutes the computer and the tach show rpm signal again and the car will start it acts like a bad CAS but until I stop the car everything seems just fine. The haltech basically sees it like this 0,0,0,50,0,0,0,0,0,0,250,0,0,0,50etc so it won't send the priming pulse. And if I use my rotary compression tool when hot all rotor faces when normalized to 250rpm see 88-92 psi but it doesn't matter as it like I said doesn't try to prime as the computer is still essentially seeing zero

Short story once car is driven the cas signal doesn't get to computer only on startup.

What should I check I'm abit stumped thought maybe was a battery so I swapped the optima out of my other car in no change and most of the bad CAS threads end with it not being the issue but no real checks or solutions posted.

open the CAS cap and loosen the HES mount screws and close the gaps with the engine warm until they just do not touch the vanes, tighten screws and retry.

if that doesn't do it, there is 2 CAS connectors in the engine bay that need to be cleaned with electric cleaner, the other that people forget about is underneath the brake master cylinder.... brake fluid anyone?

Ty I will try this hopefully this afternoon

I have the same exact issue!!! And it sucks.

if you take an extra CAS and plug it in an spin it by hand does it see RPM? or is it only when cranking? which haltech is it? the E8/11's will turn off if voltage drops under about 10v, which can be a problem.

Hey insightful thanks that seems to have done the trick now to take care of the light burns from all th hot bits in that area haha.

as to the other question I purchased a sport 1000 when they had then discounted that and the factory ECU wasn't giving the car enough full when I bought it

no problem

Had the exact same issue with haltech.
cost me half a trackday. :icon_tdow

It can be easily fixed by lowering the threshold voltage for the CAS at cranking Speed in the Setup. :nod:

After this lost an other trackday due to ECU shutting off after 10min.
Polyfuse in the ECU was the problem, fixed it by bypassing it with an ordinary melting fuse, cheers!

-Patrick