Lighten Steel Flywheel Problem?
 

The problem: The clutch grabs / engages too close to the floor. Say, within 2 inches or about 25% of upward pedal travel. The reverse is similar, meaning downward pedal travel is excessive before the clutch releases. Travel length and percentage are approximate and provided for discussion purposes. Trust me, the clutch grabs close to the floor.

The Car: 1988 Convertible N/A – Standard / Stock Drive Train Except for LSD Diff. , until the Lighten Steel Flywheel

The Components: RB Lighten Steel Flywheel, RB Heavy Duty Pressure Plate, Exedy (Stock Clutch), New Stock Clutch Master Cylinder, New Stock Slave Cylinder, New Stock Hose. All components have less than 3,000 miles.

The Mod Objective: As flywheel weights decreased through the generations, the objective is to reduce the flywheel weight , while retaining as close as possible a “stock” feel in conjunction with functional A/C, Air Pump, and Cooling Fan.

Racing Beat Contention: The Exedy (Stock Clutch) is thicker than the RB Street/Strip Disk, which was originally put in and replaced by the Exedy Clutch. They sent me a new spacer pack.

Current Situation: The trans, and the components and been removed and reinstalled 3 times. First, original replacement of stock components. Second, replacement of the RB Street / Strip clutch, which was not only out of balance, but was a PITA in heavy traffic. Third, inspection of components by professional clutch shop and resurfacing of flywheel. All work has been done by a highly respected, trusted and reliable rotary shop.

Yes, the system had been bled several times. Clutch fork inspected. Etc.

That said, I’ve gotten to the following probabilities:

1. The Exedy is, as RB suggests, thicker than the RB clutches. Meaning the spacers are too short.

2. The RB spacers between the flywheel and the Pressure Plate do not have a high degree of tolerance. Meaning, the new set of spacers could move the Pressure plate back farther. Operative word “could” , no guarantee.

3. The Heavy Duty Pressure Plate is providing more resistance and not properly matched to the stock or standard hydraulic system. Meaning, more hydraulic pressure is needed.

Presently, the solution I’m considering trying is replacing the Heavy Duty Pressure Plate, with a Stock Pressure Plate.

Any knowledgeable experience or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

how's the freeplay on the clutch pedal? may need alittle adjusting. I have mine set tight, only about 1/4" - 3/8" of freeplay.

Wait, thats adjustable? There's a good 3/4" on mine... It must be on the clutch pedal itself, or do you have to spin the piston of the clutch rod thing

Yep.. just like previously stated, the clutch pedal is completely adjustable.

Sorry, i'm noob, but is there any advantages to having more or less play in the clutch pedal?

you need to spin the clutch piston push rod, from under the dash. I believe you'll need a 10mm and 12mm wrench

yah, it makes a difference when you're shifting. the tighter the pedal, the more feel you have in the pedal, also allows you to shift faster. but the downfall is you're putting more stress on the clutch master cyclinder. having a loose pedal just makes shifting alot harder without grinding out the trans = not good...

I like to shift fast, so the less pedal travel I need the better.

As long as it is fully engaged when the pedal is out and fully disengaged when depressed, then its all up to personal preference. I personally like it engaging close to the floor because I can modulate the clutch just by moving my foot and not my whole leg. I fully depress the clutch when shifting anyway, so it makes no difference.

so your saying a tighter pedal give more of a direct feel in the clutch, but more stress which could equal the parts not workin as long? btw it's all stock car with 155k on original motor. and how do i adjust all this? thx