LC-1 Wideband users?
 

Hey guys, anyone here using the LC-1 Wideband kit/or sensor? i know some of you are using the LM-1 and from what i've searched those who own one have no complaints. I was just curious about the LC-1 b/c its at a great price. i was curious of those using it. how easy was it to tune and is the gauge necessary or can you use a laptop to tune with it? any help or suggestions would be great b/c i plan on buying one when get back to the states (i'm in the stan). should i be looking at another kit or do any of you have some input on this. thanks for your help.

the "updated" LC-1, is a great little unit, 2 outputs, programmable, but you will need something to monitor it,(tap it into your standalone and you should be able to read it and log the 0-5v line). and you can tap the 0-1v line to a afr gauge, or better yet, I picked up a 0-2v digital display for a bud, set the LC-1 to 0-2v:10-20afr, so now we had a digital readout for the second line, which gave a nice display for a nominal amount of $.

I'm quite unhappy with the LC-1, due to the fact they keep burning out on me.

My TechEdge was indestructible.

Do you just mean the sensor? Dont they all ship with the same sensor? maybe you have placed it to close to the turbo?

This is an awesome thread as i am currently in discussions with the NZ innovate supplier but he is recomending the LM-1, but im cheap and even though hes giving it to me at $125 less than he currently retails it, the $395 LC-1 tag is oh so tempting

My TechEdge 1.0 and 1.1 with the NTK L1H1 are still working just fine. Later versions use another type sensor. http://techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/


Got a Zeitronix also and using it with the Palm. Personally I like viewing the afr on the Palm better than the Techedge display. Less problem with sunlight obscuring the screen.
http://www.zeitronix.com/Products/zt2/zt2.htm I really have a problem with the front page of that site. It SHOULD NOT show the display with the rest of the outfit. When you order, the display has to be ordered seperatly. You do not get what you see in the picture for the $279 bucks. Its misleading although if you READ the site they tell you so. I didn't want or need the display because I planned on using the Palm for the display.

I dont use an LC-1, however use an LM-1

I have 2 years 8k+ miles on my original sensor mounted 12" after turbine outlet, still works fine

my sensor went bad after a couple of days, first it started giving me error codes and then it stop working then i figure out that i was running around 900 F on my EGT and thats why the sensor went bad,i did a new tune instaled a heat sink and it worked perfect until i blew my motor a couple days ago

I have used the LC-1 on my vert both with a stock ECU and with a Megasquirt.

The newer ones have a brown or yellow wire (I forget get which) that without any tuning will replace the O2 wire input into the stock ECU. Further fine tuning can be done with a laptop, but it will work fine out of the box if mounted correctly and set up correctly.

Gotta use a heat sink when using the LC-1 on a rotary engine. But even if you burn out the O2 sensor part of the LC-1, it is only a $70-$90 part available at almost any auto parts store (price dependent on which store you buy it from).

mine was replaced under warranty they didnt ask any questions and they actualy sugested the heatsink for my aplication

I have not mounted my sensor yet, but I welded the bung about 6" in front of the rear flange on my rb dp. Should I use a heatsink?

yes use the heatsink,if you go to innovatemotorsports.com they have a writeup of how to fabricate your ownout of cooper,its on the LC-1 owners manual also

this is awesome!!! thanks for the input guys. i plan on using it to tune for now. the new program they just put out for it lets you tune with a laptop like Icemark said.

i have one more dumb question for you guys. i know that the wideband sensor should be put further down the DP, but for quick tuning, would it be ok to put the wideband in the original o2 bung for a couple of hours (just to tune) then replace with the orignal when i'm done?? i read that someone did it before with no problems, but i'd like some more feedback on that. thanks again.

i might be wrong if your ordering more than jus the cable, but the LC-1 by itself is less than $200. even with the display guage its only $299. you might want to look into that. i hate seeing people get ripped off.

Trust me, I know. I didnt burn out the SENSOR (A VW part)

I burnt out the LC-1.

Apparently it's a common problem, check their forums.

I like my AEM UEGO. You can get a brand new one under $300 off ebay, and it has a 0-5V output wire for an external system. I think they're similar to the LC-1.

A friend of mine has an LM-1 on his FD but I don't like it. That big clunky box is a pain.

no complaints here!
i used mine for over a year DAILY and no problems...just left it hooked up to watch my A/F.
had it pretty far down the DP though.

thanks, that NZ dollars but even converted its sounding a bit steep. Dosnt the LC-1 have a 0-1v ref also that you can wire into the stock ecu to use rather than the stock O2 sensor?

yes it does have the output for the stock ecu