Junk Yard Dog
 

So I picked up a white 86 N/A GXL back in August in hopes of having another toy. I dont know how long this poor thing sat outside with the windows down but it made for a heck of a clean up, cat hair, leaves, dirt an what not. The possible up side, it does have KYB's under it and it also has all the AAS intact.
What would you all reccomend to bring back the dried out plastics an dash? Also does the AAS stuff work with aftermarket struts?

Done a compression test on it, rear is so-so the front only had one lump to it an the rest were real weak. Dumped about half to 2/3 of a bottle of MMO in a turned it over every couple of days for almost 3 weeks. Cleaned out the MMO that was in it tonight threw a battery in an got the same results :icon_tdow.

Now for the questions since I'm not up on the N/A knowledge. I read somewhere that it be possible to push on the apex seals with a #2 pencil or something thru the lower plug hole to kinda help break them loose. Would it be possible to do this thru the exhaust ports with the rotor rolled to where theres not very much pressure on the apex seals? Now if this don't work I do have another N/A block that I could swap in. What all can I get rid of vacuume rack/emission wise? I did catch that I can't nix the cat cause the 5/6th ports won't work.

Now the pics
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...g/100_1958.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...g/100_1965.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...g/100_1964.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...g/100_1968.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...g/100_1972.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...g/100_1969.jpg

Pressing on the apex seals is easily possibly through the exhaust port.

I've done this before, story of how I got a nice TII for $200 ;) => http://workingtofu.blogspot.com/2011...r-200-tii.html

Make sure you've got decent gasoline and then do the following:

1) Squirt some 20W-50 or MMO (depending on your rotary-based religion) in the spark plug holes, rotate, repeat, etc (Seems you already did this)
2) Tow the car around in a circle, in gear, forcing the engine to rotate, this will usually free up the seals. You can do this with the ignition on if you want gas squirting in (it can help wash out gunk).
3) Keep it up for a while, and you might just end up with good compression daily driver like I did :)
4) CHANGE YOUR OIL.

My ports are welded open, previous owner did it. I cant complain tho, It doesn't make a notable difference.

A lot of times when I see people say that, the car wasn't running right to begin with (Usually the ports were stuck already). Working ports makes a rather large difference, especially if you're driving around in the city.

Either that or you race the car everywhere and never let the RPMs drop :)

That car had three pulses of air for each rotor, 35 PSI all around. His has one pulse of air, I'm thinking it's toast.

This. Unfortunate, but more likely.

That's not the only car I have ressurected. I've had cars with 0psi on all faces on one rotor start right up after being dragged.

Hell, even Saheed's car (the one that was left out in the rain with blown everything) started right up after being dragged. Smoked the whole block! That engine was toast anyway, but it was a neat experiment.

I'm pretty sure the AAS doesn't work with aftermarket struts. pretty sure.

the cars came original with KYB struts, i just think that the OP figured they were upgraded(almost everything on the car is name brand like the momo wheel, shifters and koyo cooling components. they just aren't flaunted like the upgrade components are as the struts are flat black with a simple KYB stamp on them).

as for the compression, pull start the car to clean the crap out of it. if after about 30 minutes of run time the compression still comes back low then i would chuck in the other motor and rebuild the current one for a backup.

Well I started the car an it smoked pretty bad, let it run for about 5 minutes or so. It had a miss when first started an got a bit better at the end, but the front rotor never came back. So I'm gonna ditch as much junk off of the one that's going in as possible while its apart EGR, ACV an the cold start valve. An I'm not too sure weather I'm gonna bother doing the TB mod to it. If i ditch the BAC will it affect the idle when the AC is run?

Ditching the bac is a terrible idea. Doing so does nothing to help performance and only inspires your car to run like shit ....removing the thermo wax is right up that alley as well.