JDM TII swap: troubleshooting
 

My JDM TII swap hasn't started... YET! I do need just a bit of help though.

I pulled the spark plugs, touched, and smelt them... no fuel. I know that I have fuel pressure, but I am not confident that I have the injector clips connected to the correct injectors.

Also, I just want to know if JDM 13BT's fuel lines are switched. (Reversed compared to the USDM 13BT's.) "Feed line" to the primaries? or secondaries?

yes the fuel lines are backward on the j-spec.

Thank you VERY much... now I just need to know which injector clips clip to which injectors.

Are you running with a J-spec harness or with a fabricated US-spec harness? In my swap I bought a swap without the harness and ECU. After a lot of headache, I found that the N374 ECU has different pinouts to the injectors compared to the N370. Just a heads up.

I've got an N332 ECU and am actually using an N/A harness.

and you expect this to work?

well there's your problem.

I thought it would work... I mean I was sort of under the impression that I could use an N/A harness with the TII ECU and engine. Please fill me in~

you can use a na harness for a t2 swap, only on s5's though, the s4's are not a plug and play. and fuel lines backwards? so from the fuel filter it goes to the secondarys then primarys and back to the fuel tank then? thats messed up

I can't use my N/A harness then? since it's all S4? I cannot tell if I'm getting the right information here or not... this shit is getting confusing.

you CAN use your S4 harness with the turbo, but you have to extend a few wires and run another wire for the knock sensor if I remember correctly.

and that is what I thought... I extended some tranny wires and modified some other wires, but I didn't know about the knock sensor wire. I can figure that out, I am sure. So, these people telling me that I cannot use this harness are saying this because it must be modified?

I don't know why they are saying it, but its completely possible. to use your N/A harness. AS LONG AS ITS THE SAME SERIES OF ENGINE!! very important there. So a n S4 n/a harness can be used on an S4 Turbo. just make sure to swap the pressure sensor...thats very important.

I'll be doing the same swap pretty soon, but Personally since im retaining my N/a drive train for now, All I will have to do is extend a few wires and the knock sensor if I remember correctly.

The knock sensor wire is horribly easy. just get some good quality wire from a store that sells electrical components, and run it. make sure to secure it well. It'l only hold up to the quality of the craftsmanship it was made with.

I didn't finish reading ALL th e BULLSHIT written above. It got to be tooooooooo much.

Using a NON TURBO HARNESS ON A TURBO ENGINE is about 100 percent more rational than putting a turbo EM harness on the engine.

I've heavily edited my remarks about what I think about some/most of the above posts on this thread.

Bottom line. The non turbo EM harness on the turbo engine will work with EASE. Using a Turbo EM harness on a non turbo car with turbo engine is BRAIN DEAD IN SPADES.

Pay attention to Tyblat. He KNOWS what he is doing. EVen then, the knock sensor and box is a waste of time. It is useless imho. I'd rather have a engine with a airpump and acv than a factory knock sensor. At least they can perform their job, unlike the knock sensor/box etc.

So, I really don't need the knock sensor then... right? Would I need the airpump and ACV then? or I guess you were just making a comparison...

You don't need the ACV or the airpump UNLESS you have to pass emissions testing each year. Other than that they won't really effect the engine running or not UNLESS you made a blockoff plate that LEAKS air or is otherwise buggered up.

I've done this swap on a 87 several years ago. I installed the knock box and ran the four wires to make it work. Prior to that I ran almost a year without the box/knock sensor. So I've run with/without the knock sensor and I've removed that oddity some time ago since it makes zippity in performance or prevention of knock imho. Several other more knowledgeable folk like RETED have made similar statements IF I REMEMBER right.

Yes, I was just suiggesting the ACV and AIRPUMMP had more of a purpose in life than the factory knock sensor. What PROOF do I have???? Got me other than running 10psi and getting on it numerous times under load using 87octane gas (it's all I ever use).

So? What's wrong with your swap?

Well, knowing that I don't need the knock sensor is just one more thing to not have to worry about. I think I need to drill a hole through the ACV block-off plate to hook up my boost sensor vacuum line. I have a few more things to cap off, that are temporarily plugged. Umm... at the moment I think that's it. Could it be timing possibly? or the spark plugs maybe seizing up from the engine lube?

Ive been through the wiring harness mess for a swap and *I* would just use the NA harness from the same series if a turbo harness isn't available. I used a jspec harness (so it can be done on a left hand drive car) but it wasn't worth the trouble.

Since us-spec and jspec fuel rails have the fuel pressure regulator in different spots, the best way to see if your fuel lines are backwards is to make sure the fuel pressure regulator is the last thing in the fuel "circuit" before the lines return to the tank. If you just check that, you can't go wrong. The fuel pressure regulator is the part on the rail with the vacuum line - the other rail will have the fuel pulsation dampener.

Just to comment on the knock box...

The knock sensor is ignored above 4,000 RPM by the stock ECU.
On heavy detonation, the stock ECU will not save the engine.
The whole knock system is to prevent detonation from bad gasoline, period.

Therefore, it is basically useless.
I can't believe people fight for these things on eBay...
*sigh*


-Ted

(((((((Also, I just want to know if JDM 13BT's fuel lines are switched. (Reversed compared to the USDM 13BT's.) "Feed line" to the primaries? or secondaries?(((((((((((((((((((((((((

Here's one way. Jumper the yellow two socket fuel pump check connector near the boost sensor area. Turn the key to ON.

Pull the return line off the engine on the left side of the engine. Fuel should be flowing out of it.

Well, that's a little too simple. A lot of fuel at high pressure will come out. So you need to be careful as you pull the line off. How your careful is up to you. Like you could pull it off and hurridly put it right back on?? Or prior to turning the key to ON, install a piece of spare hose on the hard line coming off the engine and put the end in a bucket, then turn the key to ON????

The idea is to make sure fuel is flowing. IF fuel flows from the direction of the engine, then things are correct as far as fuel rail install.

The connectors to the injectors are COLOR coded. The FSM shows the colors in the wiring section.

About the injectors wire colors. It DEPENDS. If the car is a early 87 the colors will be different than say a late 87 or newer car like 88.

On a early car, with the solenoid resistor located below the AFM/air box and bolted to the chassis, the colors are for the front primary, one wire Light green and the other Brown.

The rear primary is one wire light green with a black stripe and the other wire a brown wire with a red stripe.

Front secondary is one wire light green with a white stripe and the other wire a brown wire with a white stripe.

Rear secondary is one wire light green with a red stripe and the other wire a brown wire with a yellow stripe.

If the car is a later 1987 or newer, then one wire of each injector will be Black with a yellow stripe. You'll have to look at the online 88 model wiring diagram to see what the other wire at each connector is.

I did get a little *testy* in my first post on this thread. Sorry 'bout that, but facts are facts.

If I have a turbo harness, where do I plug my alternator?

You run two brand new wires. One is to a switched source of 12vdc. The other makes its way to the CPU where you'll find a black/white wire on the connector. That is where the second wire goes.

Or you can run the two new wires to the Orange plugs on the EM harness. They're just inside the passengers area. One is called X-15 and has a black/white wire just above a White/black wire. Those colors will be on the Front half of the harness. Those are where the two new wires need to mate.

Read RotayResurrections site about how to do it.

If you used a turbo EM harness on a non turbo car you have other issures other than the alternator to deal with.

Bottom line is a non turo EM harness should have been used instead of a Turbo EM harness. Oh well.

Which one goes on which connector from the alternator? Its a T shaped like connector (S4). Which is top and which is low? Thanks