JDM sports T-70
 

Has anyone bought one of those t-70's from that JDM Sports guy on ebay? if so how are they?(quality)

I think you would be better sending this question to 2 or 3 of the people who have bought it from him on his feedback list. Most people seem to stick with stockers or upgrade the stock turbo here.

how much power can u get out of the stocker though?

The question is, how much HP are you trying to make? That will drive your turbo choice.

About 220ish wheel hp.

i made 240 wheel with a full standalone and i didnt even have trailing ignition

I made 250 with a stock ECU (piggybacked), medium streetport, and stock S5 turbo on 9psi. With all the other possible bolt ons of course.

well my goal is around 420-460ish and I think a t70 will do it but I wanna know how good they are cause there is a guy on ebay (jdmcarrier) salling them for like $300.

Im a FIRM believer in "you get what you pay for" If your goal is roughly 450 I would suggest this turbo from Garrett http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...2_452232_5.htm

Granted, your spending quadruble on this turbo then this T70 you speek of, but its doual BB and a GARRETT.

go BNR stage 4.

i wouldnt cheap out on a turbo..look around, research, determine how much power you want and can afford..etc

take a look at this thing n tell me what u guys think....here's the link

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=290102413070

i think something that cheap must be made in CHINA or KOREA. In either case I expect to see that turbo melted after 2-3 runs. Buy it but be prepared to replace it soon after you buy it.

Look, if you wanna buy cheap ass shit for your car then sell your turbo 7 and get a honda or a 240sx. you'll end up destroying the motor or car by trying to find cheap crap to make your car FAST.

pick 2 of these:

fast
reliable
cheap

if you insist on buying that POS turbo then please spare the 7 and buy another car.


for the last time: Go with a BNR stage 4.

[QUOTE=phoenix7]i think something that cheap must be made in CHINA or KOREA. QUOTE]


HAHAHAHAHAA :hahano:

^^i wasn't kidding.

Actually with the RX-7 you only get to pick one. :)

naw, you get two. You just like being impossible 13B. You can find some high quality parts for a decent price if you look well enough. Once you start looking at $200-$300 performance parts then you're in the cheap material territory which only gives you more headaches. I thought I was being cheap when I was looking at the $600-$700 BNR upgrades.

I'd never buy the $15 quick release hubs that ebay sells either. I seriously feel like you'll end up with the wheel in your hand mid-turn. now imagine if your turbo melts while coasting downhill with a backdraft!!

don't buy cheap stuff because it is most likely of lower quality.

I have used them a couple times with no problems and so have a couple of my friends. Sure you can spend thousands and have the turbo say garrett, but you can make some damn good HP with a cheap turbo as well.

If you are interested, I actually have 2 BRAND NEW T70's sitting around. I woudl seel you one a little cheaper... $250 plus shipping

No. Once you make these cars fast, you can forget reliability. Maybe we just have different concepts of fast. 400+whp = reliability out the window.

I was thinking 300hp BNR stage 2 with plenty of fuel(more for safety), oil changes every 2500 miles, adding oil every 1000 miles, checking all fluids and hoses regularly= reliable.

and even a 600hp race engine will out last similarly powered piston engines. So, I still you're being impossible.

I think what YOU mean to say is: "once you make these cars faster they tend to be more high maintenance and more likely to break down if not taken care of properly."

Yea yea whatever lol. Either way things start breaking alot easier when you're putting 400+hp through a 20 year old drivetrain. :)

its a garrett compressor housing...

but who knows about the Centre section, and if its all balanced correctly..

theres certain knock off parts you can go with and you'll be safe... ( i went with the stainless manifold and wastegate off ebay) and theyre holding up fine. but i bought a genuine garret turbo. i didnt want to test my luck on buying something off ebay that turns at something like 100,000rpm ... its just not worth it..

yea I had a t3/t4 I bought on ebay that lasted me almost a year of straight beating it n one I got from garrett that lasted me 5 weeks, but then I got a turbo timer on ebay that lasted me 4 days so go figure, I think is smart to pay for quality cause most of the time is worth it, but not always true, one can get lucky every now n then w cheapos, thats why I wanted to know if anybody had been using this turbo so I can get some feed back



:dunno:

250 wheel on 9 psi? i find that impossible to believe.

don't people rebuild trannys? you can always buy a new DS and rear end with halfshafts. You're being a negative nancy. :D

With every bolt-on imaginable and a healthily streetported S5 TII engine. Only things that were still original were the ECU and turbo. The porting is where it's at. ;)

I was going to say: "it needs to be ported and have everything you can bolt-on."

I did 250rwhp/250rwtq as well on a heavily streetported s4 motor with s5 turbo... i think it was maybe 12psi

You made the same HP as TQ? Weird... :uhh:

I dont know, my car doesnt seem to mind 400 much, at least up till this point. And its the model of reliability...

Maybe building your engine right has something to do with it?

A BNR stage 4 won't get him anywhere near his 450whp goal. Not saying it's a bad turbo, but it simply can't flow enough to make that kind of power.

Gotta agree, I only managed about 390 or so out of my BNR 4.

thats exactly what i had, PLUS a full standalone, and 13 psi. are you talking wheel hp or flywheel?

So you were ported then? Because if so, you should have been making more than 240whp on 13psi. Sounds like you had issues to me.

hey Erik ? for ya man.....how do the N/A rotors do with that setup? hp by any chance? cause Im about to rebuild my block n I thought about using N/A rotors but I dunno if that would be a good idea for what Im going for :/ any suggestions?

to the original poster if you are still looking at getting a t70 and don't want to pay for a crazy expensive turbonetics etc... but don't want to buy a crap turbo then there is an alternative. PM bobybeach on this forum. He sells Masterpower turbos that have been proven over and over again. A t70 usually goes for about 500-600 bucks wich is way cheaper than a turbonetics t70 and it lasts just as long. Good luck man.

That looks like a good turbo ....

what would you recommend for around 350 (At no more than 15psi) to the wheels that would be good for autox?

What does that one you linked to cost?

James

you never answered my question, did you make 250hp on a dyno? to the wheels? do you have a dyno chart? The only 'issue' mine had is no trailing ignition, which cant account for more than 15rwhp and i think even that is a stretch. Yes, the engine was ported. Also, it made peak power at only 5500, before the boost died off. 13psi was peak boost, it was only there for maybe 2000RPM's between 3500-5000. I dont see what more can be done to make more power unless you magically found a way to make the tiny stock turbo carry more than like 7 pounds of boost to redline. Also, in the dyno section most people with stock turbos and 12psi made around 220-230 wheel.

you know I actually ran into a forum lastnight where he was talking about them a bit, and other people on that threat were saying nothing but good things about it so yea I think Imma be trying to get in touch with him pretty soon here......

so how bout those N/A rotors for a turbo set up? anyone...opinions, complaints, ideas?!?! lol

/\/\/\

you will hear people argue this to death both ways. you just have to decide for yourself. the most popular thing to do is run 9.0:1 rotors on boosted engines, its also safer/easier to tune.

agreed. I didn't want to touch this subject with a 10 foot poll because it does cause a lot of fighting but just to let you know I've talked to many a tuner out there and they all say stay away from n/a rotors if your looking for big power. If your looking for a fun street car than sure use em' but really high compression rotors with a big turbo is just begging for troubles.

yea i settled for the n/a s4 rotors with my MPT70 setup. i can hit 30psi by 5200 rpms. but i also have a bridge ;)

damn what hp where you seeing? what gas where you using? any alky injection? How hard was it to tune it? How long did it last? Got any time slips? Was it a half bridge or full bridge?

What fuel management are you using?