Internal clearcoat
Has anyone ever clear coated the inside of the water jackets on the irons and housing to prevent corrosion. I know heat might be a problem, but I was thinking of using 2000 degree clearcoat. Any thoughts?
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The apex seals would scrape the clear coat right off even if its high temp stuuf
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Originally Posted by NoChrome
(Post 11104864)
The apex seals would scrape the clear coat right off even if its high temp stuuf
I have the feeling this thread is gonna get HOT! |
Originally Posted by NoChrome
(Post 11104864)
The apex seals would scrape the clear coat right off even if its high temp stuuf
Anyway, regular coolant changes have worked for so long. Personally, I wouldn't do it. Maybe you should be the first! Spray some of that clear on a chunk of aluminum, and some steel bar stock. Let it cure, and submerge it in coolant for a few weeks. See what happens to it. Maybe even throw the coolant on the stove and boil it, then throw it in for a couple hours. Of course you should do this before you use it on your engine. |
Clean fresh coolant of the right concentration has anticorrosion properties... What do you want to run in it?
Also will a coating allow the same amount of heat transfer to the coolant as the bare metal? This is an interesting proposition that I haven't heard before. |
Originally Posted by MIDNFauciUSN
(Post 11104880)
Spray some of that clear on a chunk of aluminum, and some steel bar stock. Let it cure, and submerge it in coolant for a few weeks. See what happens to it. Maybe even throw the coolant on the stove and boil it, then throw it in for a couple hours.
Originally Posted by Andre The Giant
(Post 11104883)
Also will a coating allow the same amount of heat transfer to the coolant as the bare metal? This is an interesting proposition that I haven't heard before.
Besides, quite a bit of the "corrosion" that you see isn't chemically induced, it's mechanical and I can't imagine a DIY spraybomb product that would endure. |
Originally Posted by clokker
(Post 11104905)
That wouldn't even begin to duplicate the interior of a water passage in a running engine, no useful data to be gathered that way.
The useful data would exist if the clear came off or actually became colored (which it probably would)... under NO pressure, which would make me believe that this would be ineffective on internals that ARE under pressure/flow. |
Yeah, but if the coating passed your test, then what?
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Originally Posted by clokker
(Post 11105049)
Yeah, but if the coating passed your test, then what?
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Arsenio Hall what to do you think?...HMMM?!
-coolant has anti-corrosives in it. -would the coolant eat at the clear coat and send it into the heater core and rad and plug them up?. -who would ever see the Picasso art work of painting Inside your coolant passages so you could brag about it?.. ....idea...Prestone with MINI Rotors!..so it can scrape the clear coat off! |
just get good irons/housings from a used motor and run fresh coolant in the event yours are rusty or corroded. I don't see this working or being beneficial at all.
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Originally Posted by misterstyx69
(Post 11105130)
Arsenio Hall what to do you think?...HMMM?!
-coolant has anti-corrosives in it. -would the coolant eat at the clear coat and send it into the heater core and rad and plug them up?. -who would ever see the Picasso art work of painting Inside your coolant passages so you could brag about it?.. ....idea...Prestone with MINI Rotors!..so it can scrape the clear coat off! |
the coolant passages do not corrode if you use fresh clean coolant and do NOT use hard tap water in the system. always mix coolant with distilled water and change the coolant about every 2 years, 1 year if you are anal.
clear coating the water passages will only reduce the thermal exchange rate of the materials, making the cooling system have to work harder to do the same amount of heat transferring that it used to do. even painting a radiator core you will notice your temps get warmer, especially if using thick non heat conductive paint. the pitting you usually see on the rotor housings is from minerals in the cooling system. the irons do break down over time and that material becomes statically charged and drills away at the aluminum(this is called electrolysis, the charged debris as it passes over the surface being electrified shocks it at the point of least resistance which is usually the hottest spots in the system, flaking material off slowly). if you take water from the tap in your sink it already has tons of that hard minerals/iron in it. add in that some cars sit for months/years at a time the coolant solution even can become acidic which compounds the issue 10 fold. the problem is just neglect of the coolant and that is all. |
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