Intake chip???
 

I dont wanna sound like an idiot, but I have been seeing these things on ebay for years now and I was just wondering if they really work; and if so, are they worth it... please do not flame... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...sPageName=WDVW

My friend tried that on his accord. It didnt work.

also if it sayd not for turbo or diesel models and the hp on the dyno is way off, then you know its phony

exibit A

AH....I wasnt going to try it so I didnt even consider that... thanz for the input...

all those "chips" are actually resistors that connect to your IAT sensor (right below the BAC valve on 86-88). They do work but I wouldn't spend over $1.00 buying one.

I built one for my own 7 got it dyno'ed, it only increased it about 7hp which on the other hand is not bad for the $0.69 I spent.

what these so called "chips" do is trick your computer by making it think the intake air temp is cooler then it actually is, which in turn cause it to pump more fuel through the injectors.

Hope this helps!!

you can do the same modification by buying a .20 cent resistor which is what the mod is.. I forgot the volt/omh rating. HP-modz is right. The resistor is causing the temp sensor to think its taking in cold air and makes our car runs richer.

Wow, 7hp just for a small resistor? Do you still have it on your car? So I take it that it's really simple to do/make then, right?

yeah they work. all the IAT is is a variable resistor, varying according to temperature. there is a certain resistance that the engine runs strongest at, and this resistor bypasses the whole variable part and keeps everything set at that one point, which in turn produces a noticible horsepower increase (but only if you werent close to that resistance point in the first place... if you have nice cool air coming in already it wont make any diff, but if you dont, it will)


I bought one and installed it. took 30 seconds, I noticed a difference.

What resistance are you using? The FSM has a chart that could be used to figure out roughly what temperature you're fooling it into believing it's running at.

I'd expect the gain on a NA car to be from leaning things out up high. If the intake air sensor can be used to do this, great.

As for installing it: The intake air sensor is under the BAC, over on the driver's side of the throttle body. It has 2 tabs sticking out of it, and the connector for it has two female tab receptacles. Removing the connector and sticking a resistor in it is, as stated above, about a 30 second job. Maybe a little longer if you wrap it with some tape to keep it from falling out.

//EDIT: Maybe not. It looks like the primary intake air temperature sensor is on the airflow meter. At least for the S4, the chart is on page 4A-54 of the FSM.

//EDIT 2: Right. The primary intake air sensor is on the airflow meter, page 4A-54 of the FSM. The dynamic chamber air temperature sensor is under the BAC, and is discussed on page 4A-81. Which sensor do you fool with?

So, eh, what resistance were you using with the 7hp gain?

-=Russ=-

no its right on the drivers side like you said. hang on ill get a pic

here you go.


General Area. Driver Side on the side of the throttle body.
http://members.shaw.ca/jono24/rx7/mod1.JPG


What to unplug.
http://members.shaw.ca/jono24/rx7/mod2.JPG


good luck.

Ok, so that's the dynamic chamber temperature sensor. Looking at the FSM charts:

20C/68F: 41.5 +/- 4.15 kOhm
50C/122F: 11.85 +/- 1.19 kOhm
85C/185F: 3.5 +/- 0.35 kOhm

My guess is that using something in the 30-50 kOhm range would provide the best results. This would be telling the engine that the intake air was nice and cold, and prevent the ECU from doing anything silly like retarding the timing due to heat. The actual intake air sensor on the AFM would handle corrections for air density.

Care to share what resistance you have hidden under the tape?

-=Russ=-

haha I never even bothered to check. Ill do it tomorrow. I was on my way to work when it arrived and I was feeling a little oo lazy to crack out my resistor colour code reading skills

hahahaha, ah man, if every write up was like that(those pics) I'd know what everything in my engine was(besides the oil and washer). Though, I'm still trying to find where I put in brake fluid. Btw, do you have a red wire on the driver side of your car? A long red wire...sorry for the horrible description.

do you really not know where to put the brake fluid?

and im not sure about the red wire, but im going to give that a solid 'probably'

Looking inside the engine and looking at things that have caps on them......nope. I'm still in the learning stage on my car. The only small mechanical thing I've done, were replacing my driver side light with and new light, only to find out that it's not the light that's burning out, but it's either harness going bad or something, and about to order a K&N replacement filter. Other than that, bit by bit, I'm learning what and where everything is by reading descriptions from peoples posting. Heck, I'm still saving money to get my tranny fluid flsuhed and filled.

m just learning too. only had my seven for 2 or 3 weeks. the brake fluid container is the one right in front of thw windshield on the drivers side, right in the corner. the two white containers with the black lits, next to the big round thing on the firewall (I think thats the master cylinder)

ive jsut installed a new cone intake, thats basically it!

Ohhhh, ok I know what you're talking about now. It's the clear container with the black cap that has a warning message, correct? Is there any certain type of brake fluid I should use? anyways, I've given the whole intake thing, too much thought. I wanted to just be done away with the stock intake and buy the Apex short ram intake, but then there was the K&N drop in filter, and I'm going the drop in route for now. But again, I want the Apex intake....hard choices, though.

I thought when the Sensor was unplugged the ECU default value was something Like 20*C (which is decent)

My car doesn't even Run properly with the Air temp Plugged in

yes thats correct. It says Dot3 fluid on the cap so I say you use that.

dont go drop in, get the Apex :)

Actually I used one of those adjustable resistors, the one's with the little knob at the end. (can't think of the real name, just woke up)

once I connected it I just fine tune it while I was driving. I just like to have control of all the adjustments from inside the car

I call it Hp-modz KIT, LOL - Horse power modification kit -

I used to sell them on ebay about 2 years ago, did fairly well too.

Icemark sells the resistors. It can increase power a little, but not the 20HP these people claim.

the wire could be plugged in wrong. I noticed a difference when I flipped the wire around on the plug.

Oh... so if I already have a cold air intake w/ heatshield and custom piping, then it wont do much...

its called a potentiometer. or just a pot.


and yeah Apathy thats prob correct

that chip thing doesnt work at least i dont think it does uless i have wires wrong because i just got one off ebay and plug it in and test drov it and all i felt was a hell of alot of hesitation