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-   -   installed some LI injectors on my s5 and car wont rev past 3800 (https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/installed-some-li-injectors-my-s5-car-wont-rev-past-3800-a-330922/)

calio64 07-23-04 11:30 PM

installed some LI injectors on my s5 and car wont rev past 3800
 
put in some 10 ohm 10 watt resisitors ( put 1 on the light green and red wire and the othere on the light green and yellow wire, is this right?)on the ecu side and some marren LI injectors , my question is how do i check to see if these resistors are doing there job and how i can check that the injectors are getting the correct power to come on at 3800? i searched and couldnt really find a answer

thanx for any help

ilike2eatricers 07-23-04 11:46 PM

I am having a similar problem to you. I just installed greddy LI 720s in my secondaries and the car just severely bogs and hesitates above 4k rpm. Kevin Landers said that there is way too much fuel and I need to get an SAFC to tune them down. Right now there is 30% more fuel. Way too much for my mods.

YearsOfDecay 07-24-04 12:24 AM

yeah.. i think if you guys would put a wideband on your cars, it would be in the single digits when the secondaries come on.

Spawn VII 07-24-04 12:54 AM

LI? Low Impedence? s5 uses high impedence

ilike2eatricers 07-24-04 12:57 AM

^
Yes, but most upgraded injectors are low impedence so a 10ohm/10watt resistor per injector. LI injectors are supposed to react better/faster than HI impedence. Do a search for some more info.

calio64 07-24-04 09:03 AM

i have a plx wideband and a s-afc have the safc turned way down, how do i make sure they are coming on at 3800? and that these resistors are droping the ohms?

ilike2eatricers 07-24-04 12:24 PM

Not sure how you can test that they are coming on at 3800. You can test the resistance of the wires you adding resistors on. Waynne88N/A was nice enough to tell me how


Originally Posted by WAYNE88N/A
If you'd like, read the harness for resistance from the injector connector (make sure the ECU plug is disconnected) while "playing" with the connector & wiring near it. Use this method- run a wire to ground from the ECU pin the injector uses, then in the engine bay read the other end of the wire at the injector to ground (make sure you're on the right injector wire, since you obviously can't see the wire colors through the harness wrap, unless you cut some back). You should get something close to zero ohms- if not, play with it...If the meter jumps, then you'll know the defect is in the plug, or the immediate vicinity.


RotaryResurrection 07-24-04 01:52 PM

You guys should spend time with a voltmeter/ohmmeter and learn the basics of electronics. It's all really pretty simple, it's just wires, voltages and resistances. You can troubleshoot damn near anything on the car with a multimeter (and the knowledge of which terminals to probe, how circuits work, etc.). I'm no electronics genius, but I know enough to get by.

These cars are RIDDLED with electrical gremlins, and you need to learn how to do basic troubleshooting, so that you don't have to post here every time you have a little issue. True, thats what this board is here for, but there is something to be said for teaching yourself the basics. How do you think I got where I am today...at age 19 I knew little more than how to change sparkplugs and oil. I'm now almost 27 and am a nationwide supplier of rotary engines and technical support for some of the more complex automobiles on the road. And nobody taught me any of it.

Digi7ech 07-24-04 02:00 PM


Originally Posted by ilike2eatricers
^
Yes, but most upgraded injectors are low impedence so a 10ohm/10watt resistor per injector. LI injectors are supposed to react better/faster than HI impedence. Do a search for some more info.

High impednce injectors are actually quicker.
The low impedance ones are better suited to high CC's.

I forget exactly why but there is a thread which explains impedancees on injectors.

You guys should see my thread on the injectors not working.

Easiest way to check for working injectors is to check for voltage and voltage drops at the pins for those injectors.

Turns out I had messed up on a connection when installing resistors to my harness. It wasn't getting continuity.

720's without a SAFC will be a killer.

ANother possibility is that the FPR could be dead.
That's what seems to be going on with mine right now.


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