uncap the variable resistor and let the car warm up and idle, screw the idle down to where it is idling below 1k RPMs and then use the variable resistor to smooth out the idle.

my microtech TPS setting is adjustable so it doesn't really matter where it sits at, it has to be set to 0% or the idle maps are ignored. i actually disabled my TPS anyways because they are too touchy so my idle map is already ignored and no TPS to have to worry about(also saves about 2 ounces of weight, FUEL SAVINGS OH YEAHHH!).

hell yea dude, i want to look into a standalone or a piggy back that has Idle control and settings like the adjustable tps sometime in the near future.

the variable resistor i read was only adjustable on the s4, i will check for adjustment and try when i get off, I worked on the map a little more and i got the bucking to stop during light throttle/low rpm i added some fuel across 2000 - 3500 rpm car drives smooth with good pull, after checking the variable resistor if problem persist ill swap out tps to see if i can get to 0% if that doesnt work ill probably just slowly keep working on the issue intill i get a means of adjusting idle fuel. water temps look good, oil pressure is good and it is boosting with no problems at all so the car good right now. But i do notice i am getting small drops of water between the rear iron and rear housing, water seal should be in today so replace that and keep tuning for FUEL SAVINGS!! lol. going for a nice responsive motor that is reliable when drifting not to worried about power for now.

Overall you like the microtech? compared to the Rtek it is alot more computer based?

PC based i should say

ah nm the variable resistor then, i thought you had an S4

Finally Found the problem!! the secondary throttle plates were not completely closed the bores looked clean and smooth but im under the impression the wrong or damaged throttle plates were put back in after the throttle body mod was done by the guy i bought the tb from ( correct me if im wrong and all fc throttle plates are the same size). i will further inspect tb when i have extra time.

Thanks for all the input on the matter. If anyone has this problem do not second guess you self if you have already sprayed around all vacuum sourced to verify vacuum leaks if you have done this multiple times check the throttle plates, mine are completely closed (primaries and secondaries)

If I'm not mistaken, and I could be, the secondary throttle plates are supposed to stay cracked open just a hair

its easy to screw with the secondary set screw on an n/a throttle body to correct for an idle issue that the idle bleed screw wont accomodate. so its likely someone messed with it, perhaps on a car that had a blown engine to keep it running.

this is why it sucks using unknown parts.

I know that's why I had planned on usimg all stock parts and modify my self after the break in but I never got the exact anwser about how much the plates were suppose to be open I saw a picture once and they were open so I assumed it was ok, but troubleshooting and coming to a dead end made me change direction on what to look at

That's what I heard there suppose to be open a little, these are possibly but u would have to measure with a feeler guage but compared to how much the original jdm tb was open there closed 100% in my eyes I'll take a measurment when I have free time, at idle I'm pulling about 20 inches of vacuum, idle needs to be adjusted still idle sometimes around 1500 other times it will be around 1000 rpm, neighbors can sleep peacefully again lol till I give it some throttle

Before I was pulling 10 inches of vacuum first motor I built it was and is a interesting aggravating and fun learning curve.

Vacuum is measured in mmhg (millimeters of Mercury)(usually) Just FYI

Yes I know but just like boost u can have psi or bar measurment, my guage is inches of mercury for now
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e32d569f76.jpg

Blackball7. how close are you to spiceland indiana?

About 1 1/2 hours. I used to race at NCMP just of the interstate there

all the throttle body settings can be found in the FSM, including the amount of angle for the throttle plates at rest.