i just bought an 87 t2 and i have some questions....
 

well my 7 was just delivered saturday and i knew it had a few lil probs...well it has more than i was told(of course) but i'm not surprised. in 3 years it was driven only 3k miles and has about 75 miles on the mazda recycling motor. now when the motor was installed the mechanical was a realy dumbass....he left bolts off everywhere and it has a very large vacume leak somewhere. the exhaust is completely clogged up too.

so to fix the exhaust i oredered a RB dp and presilencer.... and i don't really know what to do after that. should i rip the intake all apart and replace everything andget the injectors cleaned at RC engineering...or should i just get the leak fixed?

the last owner thought the injectors were bad, but it says right on the receipt that it has a bad vacume leak and that the previous owner was notified of it. so i'm in a rock and a hard place. i really really want the car up and running but i'm on a tight budget. not as tight as i woulda been if i would have paid cash though...but thats another story. i have about 300 to spend left and i get about 200 a week...but i'm going to school in 2 weeks and "rexy" needs to run to get me there. i dont' trust her at my house cause my folks are diehard GM retards.

i'm desperate...so any suggestions are much appreciated!

Jay

87 t2

mods: K&N drop in, Racing Beat 2.5" dp and presilencer, dynomax turbo catback, SS oil lines.

more to come if i can get her to run...lol

pick up a haynes maunual and test the injectors and whatever you suspect is not working properly. Do a search for how to fix the vaccume leak. I dont quite remember how, and with the rest of the money it might be a good Idea to get a FCD and silicone hose kit and try to replace injectors, or get them survised. you can pick up an intake for pretty cheap too. Will the car start? Try to get her running b4 modding it up too much.

PS you name reminded me of a riced out neon with a huge sticker on the back that said NEON it looked real fast. LOL

You can replace all the vac. lines yourself. I did mine last summer...not a big deal and not expensive. I just used regular rubber vac. lines. The leak should not be hard to find. To test the injectors just check for pressure leak down at the filter (to confirm the fuel pump does not "leak down" and then at then through the whole system with the outlet at the FPR blocked. If the FP checks out OK and you get a pressure drop then the injectors are leaking.

Todd

todd, did you have to take the whole intake apart??? and how many vacume lines are there?? when i'm looking at it i see tons of them. and what do i need to keep and what can i get rid of such as the air pump and stuff. there are tons of things connected to the TB...i know not all of them serve a real good purpose. i have the mazda shop manual, the hanes, and the chiltons. so i have plenty of souces, but they are too vague.

and i'm not modding the car anymore...the dp was to replace the clogged cats...the rest of my money is going into the car and getting it to run reliably so i can get to school. its 180 mile trip one way.


thanks
Jay

JAY! are u going to toledo in august??? say, maybe the 22nd??

im gonna be there, at UT, living on campus. if u still have car probs, theres a mazda dealership about 4 miles from campus, and a speed shop www.defconmotorsports.com bout a mile or 2 down the road from the Mazda dealership. let me know whats up, i might be able to get you hooked up... its about time someone else got a 7 around here!


chris

holy shit i love you man! j/k but yeah i'll probly be up there around the 20th. but i don't know if rexy is gonna make it. i can't get her to start. i'm in desperate need of an experienced 7 owner. i want to get rid of all the junk emissions stuff but i don't know what i need to keep it running. like the throtle body mod...i was told not to do it by mazdatrix...and then i see that lots of people do it. i dunno... but i already ripped the A/C system out. i don't need that f**king crap. just wastes more gas. its friggin ohio. its hot for a week and then cold again.

but anyways...i'm gonna tear into rexy tomorrow and "try" to findout whats up. if you feel like going on a lil road trip come on down! i seriously need help. i know piston engines and emiisions systems on them like the back of my right hand....but air pumps and extra cats and blah blah blah are killing my brain. and i'm poor....car cleaned me out for now.

welp its time to go to work....damn night jobs and day jobs to afford a car....jeez what i'll put myself through for a 7! :D


latas
Jay

for now, keep your emissions stuff on there. dont try to get rid of the EGR or any of the stuff thats PART of the engine. we can try to figure that out later.

for now, u can get rid of ur Air pump and knock out ur cats. that air pump sucks a few HP. if its not there, ur engine doesnt have to waste power trying to turn it. BUT if u take that off, you NEED to gut ur cats, or put on a straight pipe. the Air pump puts air into ur cats, if u take that off w/o gutting ur cat, it will over heat, and melt down, and clog ur exhaust. not good.

id say, tear ur intake off, and replace the vaccuum lines under there, and reseal it all. theres alot of vaccum crap under tehre, and they are preformed hoses so that they will all fit in there nicley. if u just use hose from a reel, it might turn out to look like a RAts nest under there, and that would be a pain in the ass. just see about getting OEM replacement parts, www.mazdatrix.com should have it. or call ur dealer, and order parts from them.

honestly, the dealer is more expensive than Mazdatrix, yet they are the same parts. Trix parts are like 10-20% cheaper than dealer parts. but they come from the SAME WAREHOUSE, out in irving, california. no lie.

anywho, check all vaccum lines. make sure all ur sensors are plugged in, liek ur MAF sensor mounted to ur air filter box. i think tahts all i can think of for now. try to leave shit on ur car so that it will at least run, we will focus on strippin it later. if u need anythign else, let me know, PM me, email me, or post something on here.

chris

PS; i dont have a liscense, no road trips for me...apparantly theres something wrong w/ going 132 down the I-70..*shrugs*

to find small vaccum leaks, crank up the car, get a can of throttle body cleaner and spray where a vaccum leak might be. if the idle rises then there is a leak.

thanks chris...i have a RB downpipe and midpipe on the way...so the cats are gone...and i'll pull the pump today...well when i wake up today. and the intake is coming off today tooo...i already called up mazdatrix and the guy there told me to take it all apart and see what i need...told me some of the things i'll definately need and its only gonna be about $60 to get the parts... and then i'm gonna overnight the injectors to RCeng to get them cleaned and blueprinted....well i'm still ifee on that but i may. i'm worried about the compression though... the mazdatrix guy told me to compression test it before i do anything...but the engine is from mazda and it was tested 75miles ago...do you think it could have gone bad in 75miles? so i think i'm gonna rent a lil compression tester and check it tomorrow...if it bad i'm gonna send the "F"ing car back to the guy i bought it from and tell him he's a stupid mother fucker and to give me back my money. cause he told me (and i have proof of it) that the motor was fine and was compression tested. cause i do not have the money needed to put a diferent motor in.

welp i hope i can figure this shit out. and i hope i can get the damn bolts off the exhaust. its tough to reach the lil mothers...maybe it'll be easier with the intake off.

latas... thanks man.

Jay


PS...i have 8 points...so i'm gonna take it easy on the speed. I-70 is tough not to speed on...but 130+ your crazy man!! but thats awesome! why the hell did you even slow and pull over?? i woulda just punched it and kept goin. if you get cought you lose uyour license and if not you don't....if you jsut pull over...well you lost your license... but i'm dumb so don't listen to me..lol

Drift; i think one of his problems is, that he cant get it started in the first place, i thot of that spray can trick before...but didnt say anythign cuz i thot he couldnt get it running.

Jay, order the parts you need from Trix, they would probably take about 3 days to get to you. they are all genuine mazda parts, so theres no prob about them fitting right. i would DEFINITLY get the injectors inspected, tested, and blue printed, itll save you the trubble later on down the road. if u dont, a leaky injector may show up a few hundred miles down the road...and youll be stuck off campus w/ a flooded engine, and i wont be able to give a ride, cuz i have 14 points on my liscense! its a cheap insurance step to keep ur engine running good.

im gonna hafta get mine done if i dont sell the car. cuz sometimes, if ur injectors arent holding pressure, they will bleed off fuel into ur intake,and down into ur engine, causing it to flood. the prob w/ our cars, is that u cant just let it sit and have the fuel evaporate...its can be a long procedure to unflood ur engine, especially if it sits for a while in that condition. belive me, i KNOW!!! its a long story, and a pain in the ass too.

and the engine SHOULD still have compression, i doubt its gonna go bad in 75 miles. if it DOESNT, it means that ur injectors already flooded the engine. if u go to start ur engine, and it just spins like theres no compression, and no puffs in the exhuast...chances are its flooded. if thats so, just let me know, ill tell u what to do, step by step. or someone else on here can help too.

if it sounds like "RRrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr" that probably means theres no compression

if it sounds like "RRrrRRrrRRrrRRrrRRrrRRrr" it means theres more than likely SOME Kinda compression in it. you should also hear some puffs in the exhaust too.

anywho, let me know whats up.

chris

PS: ive never gotted PULLED over for fracturing a law like that. just for piddly stuff, reckless op, failure to stay on marked pathways (long story), speed (x4), "squeal and peel", assure clear distance ahead (Ran into a offduty cop)...but NOT for triple digit speeds. hehe

Edit: about the exhaust bolts. do u mean to remove the exhaust from the manifold??? or to remove the manifold from the engine? exhaust from the manifold is easy, just 2 nuts. just jack the car up on the passenger side, behind the front wheel. u can even use the jack thats in the car. the manifold...well i don tknow, never had to take it off yet. but, it should be relatively easy, just the heat sheilds might be in the way.

hey guys...

well the T2 has beautifull compression... 85pounds on a cold engine. the mazda trix guy told me that thats good if its cold...100 or so if its been warmed up...but since it won't run...yeah. i still have an air pump....but i'll junk it out soon. the intake area is comepletely disassembled. ok well the intake and tb are still together its just not in the car. the injectors are pulled and i'm gona send them out ASAP to RCeng. they are totally leakers i'm sure. when i opened up the motor all i could smell was major gas fumes. when i was checking the compression the sparkers were soaked with fuel and i had the fuse for the injectors pulled. so i know they have to be leaking... or something is fucked up. i have all the holes stuffed with clean rags and i have a big trash bag on the motor so no water finds its way in. all my parts should be arriving very soon. the dp should be here by wednesday and the vacume components will be here monday mornin. i just have a 3 day down time with the damn injectors but I AM gettting them worked on.

as for the exhaust bolts...what would be the easiest way to put on my new dp and mp? take the bolts off at the turbo or...drop the whole turbo/manifold and tehn work on the bolts up in my garage? rexy is outside...cause she won't start to get up my hill to my garage...:( the bolts are tough to get to it looks like and the previous owner said he couldn't get tehm off himself.... but he couldn't fix lil probs like the not working boost gauge and oil pressure gauge. to simple plug and play devises...damn computer talk. so i'm having trouble beleiving some things(sorry phil..lol) that he's told me. he never told me how many times the friggin thang has been wrecked either...its not a salvage title...but with all the replaced and not so well replaced things its damn near a totaled vehicle. i'm finding new shit everyday that pisses me off. but then i lok at it and see the potential and i bout spunk in my draws...lol

well i'm at 8 points...and i better not get anymore...6 are this year. i've had 5 tickets and 3 were speeders...92 in 55, 49 in 35, 77 in 65....and then 1 redlight...and 1 stop sign. the 92 one was $350+ cause it was a contruction zone. i had to take driving classes to not lose the license for it. looks like i'm doing all the driving to the get togethers in toledo then aren't i??? BTW are tehere many racers/showers up there?? i don't wanna race that much cause of license points situation but i still like to go and then make people race me at the track.

i need to get me a good pair of driving my japanese sports car sun glasses...lol any suggestions? I KNOW I KNOW... i need a running car first, but i need some sun glasses too.

ok well talk to everyone lata...thanks for the help. i hope this does it.

Jay

I don't know who told you that, but the engine actually makes more compression when it's cold...



-Ted

HOLY>>> is that true??? am i getting screwed?? damnit...i'm gonna kill someone...its time to go postal...somebaody tell me this dude is wrong... pleez!! i was all happy that the motor was in good shape...now i'm scared again...DAMN yOU!

Whoa!&nbsp Don't get bent out of shape yet!

Depending on what kinda compession tester, 85 all around should be a good number...



-Ted

Jay, ur compression should be ok. i mean, you gota keep in mind, Turbo cars have lower compression ratios than an NA car. cuz the turbo packs the air into the engine, and raises the compression ratio that way.

but, 85 does seem low. i mean...if u take 85psi/14.7psi=5.78:1???
is that right? compression psi divided by atmoshperic psi= the compresion ratio?

anyways, in toledo, thers a cruis-in car show at WEstgate shopping plaza every thurs night thru september i belive. my buddy organized it last year, and i always had my trans am in it. always had a group of people checkin her out too. hehe. i think the car crowd isnt very organized in toledo, as far as i know. if anything, we can go hang out at Defcon cuz thats sort of like a clubhouse or treehouse for us OLDER kids. ill just need a ride there, lol...i wont get my liscense back till Dec 19.

anywho, as far as ur exhaust, put ur car up on jack stands, and take the pipe off from the manifold, or from the tturbo anyways. leave ur turbo assembly on ur engine, itll save u the trubble. u wont have to worry about maneuvering that heavy ass chunk of iron around.

anyways, have fun w/ it.

chris

well if the engines got lots of gas in it your numbers will be smaller. did you do the test with the pedal to the floor? is your battery in strong condition? if not you'll get lower #'s. I'd get it started and running then try again. it'll run with 85.

According to the Haynes manual, 85psi is the absolute minimum to have for a good motor. Since it is showing 85psi, you're motor is good. There are several factors that contribute to compression though. Dirty oil? Seals could be bad? Carbon build-up? etc.. You can get away with using the Transmission fluid treatment that will raise it at least 10psi on both rotors..

Don't feel too bad. When I got my engine checked, it read 105psi - front and 92psi - rear. And this was with dirty oil (and low oil to the point where the light came on). I'm sure it's probably a little higher than that now. But I'd say an emmaculate engine would put out 125psi/front and 115psi/rear..

-M

HA HA HA I"M A DUMB ASS!!!
 

hey guys...thanks for all your help. i flipped over th compression ratio...but guess what...i forgot to open the throtle...i know i didn't floor it..so when i put rexy back together i'll retest adn i'm sure the numbers will rise. i'm a dumb shithead...lol

RC eng is pissing my off though...they claime a 3 day turn-araound..but i'm getting screwed! i paid 16.25 to over night ship the injectors to them...and they've had my injectors since 11:30 am their time...and they aren't finished testing them...thats 5.5hours they've had to run simple cleaning tests on them. i called and the receptionist told me the tech. left early...thats BS! my car can't run without the injectors and they promised me that'd i have them back by wednesday afternoon. welp...thats not happening. but i have everything else ready to go...so i'm getting pissed. i finally figured out how to get an angle on the damn DP bolts...it was fun. got that thing removed and the cats are in the garage.

should i go ahead and take the airpump off?? whatabout all the things on the air control valve?? i'm thinking about not hooking up the damn 90 degree bend and runnin the hose straight to the fron of the engine...to releave my stress. lemme know what all i have to plug and stuff...and if its a good i dea to remove the air pump now or wait...and about the water lines...



Chris: dude it sounds like a plan...i'll have no prob with drivin you round for a bit. it'll be a car person i can talk at. my friend jeremy has a early 90's stang that he's suped up a lil ... he goes there and he'll probly hang too. i'm thinking bout getting a haltech in bout a month...wanna help install it?? i'm already bidding on the laptop to run it. withthe haltech i can rip out and blockoff everything that isn't nessicary...WHICH IS A MUST! i can't stand looking at the motor right now..its a rats nest of shit!

welp lata guys...

Jay

Jay-dawg
 

i think you should be ok to take the air pump off now. since u dont have the cats, you dont have to pump Air to them. im not sure if the air pump is used to open any ports like it does on the 89-92 NA cars...but urs is a 4-port turbo motor, so i dont think ur air pump runs any ports. Yank it.

if there are any stray hoses that used to connect to the cats, u can take them off. like the line that injected air into the cat. and the hose that ran from the air pump to anything else. if you end up w/ an open nipple or connector where an air pump hose used to go...just plug it up some how. you could leave a short section of the rubber hose on the nipple, and plug it up w/ something.

one time what i did, was take the hose, bend it back over it self, like how u kink a garden hose so that the sprinkler turns off. and then i took a screw-style hose clamp, and slid it over the kink and wrenched it down so the kink seals off the end of the hose. might look cheap, but gets the job done. lol

i can help you install ur Haltech, ive never DONE it before, cuz i have an NA car. all u need is a good wiring diagram so that u can splice into the correct wires tho. i bet its gonna be a bitch to tune. the shop in toledo would probably be able to help us out. most of the cars i see in there, arent as serious as this, most of them are equiavalent to ricey hondas. they have nice piggy back computers like SAFC's, and VPC's, and shit like that. not a whole stand alone engine managment system like a haltech E6K. anywho, just keep calling RC eng. and nag them. it works. theyll get on the ball. trust me.

hell, at work, we gave a girl a job cuz she simply NAGGED us so much. she wasnt qualified any better than ur average joe, she just BUGGED The hell out of us, so we hired her. anyways, good luck bro

chris

PS, Jay-bone, send me an email or something i can hook u up w/ my pager # and u can get ahold of me when u come to town. oh yea, last week i did see a mustang gt at the cruise-in. i think it was white. it had the exhaust pipes coming thru the rear apron. is that ur buddys car? it wasnt bad lookin.