I am going to go outside and kill my car. Now.
 

Ok. So, my car is giving me a good ammount of problems. It all started with my TPS not working. So, I came on here and posted a few wanted adds for a TPS and Corbit graciously GAVE me one for my 1990 n/a. The only thing wrong with it was that there were 3 wired that were cut from connector, so I soldiered them back on according to my old TPS.
I put it on and attempted to tune it with the light method. When I attempted to tune it, I never got the method to work. When I turned the screw so that the spring was almost all the way compressed and moved the throttle, the lights would flash, and as I backed the screw out I would have to move the throttle less and less for the lights to flash. After backin it out so far, I literally barely toched the throttle and on light would blink, but I've tuned my TPS before when it was working, and this isn't how it's supposed to work. Also, when the light flashed, I heard a small clicking noise somewhere I think on the vacuum rack or "rat's nest."
So, after getting it as close as I could to the light flashing when the throttle was barely touched, I took it out for a drive (to work) and after about 4 miles of driving, my car got kind of sluggish feeling and my check engine light flickered on and has been on ever since. It feels sluggish all the way up to about 3000, then when it hits 3800 when the 5th and 6th ports open, you can really tell. It is very defined.
So, I have no idea what to do. I am also in the process of replacing my vacuum lines, but have only done about 3 or 4 one night on the vacuum rack after work, and that was before I even put the new TPS on. Could this TPS perhaps be bad also? I just don't know what to do at all, so any help would be SOO MUCH APPRECIATED. From anyone. Thanks soo much in advance.

Gabe

Get a multimeter and tune the TPS the right way. That will help.

Ok, well what about the check engine light? Can an improperly adjusted TPS provoke the check engine light to come on?

Pull codes and see what's up.

Few ideas here...

1) Primaries are clogged/pouring instead of spraying. Then when the secondaries come online (somewhere around 3800-- along with the aux ports) the engine gets bursts of decently atomized fuel that it can *actually* burn cleanly. The correctly attomized fuel from the secondaries help burn out the pouring in gas from the primaries with fuller combustions.
2) Use a multimeter on the TPS, it could be throwing everythign fof
3) Check timing, it *does* make a noticeable difference on an n/a.
4) Veryify both aux ports and VDI actuators are freemoving. You should be able to move them either with your hands or a pair of pliers.
5) An intake leak will cause a high idle. It takes forever to check for intake leaks and its usually something insanely mundane, like an intake gasket that you forgot to mill or sandwich with RTV. One or two tiny uncapped nipples won't account for mroe than 500rpm though. Whereas an improperly seated gasket could stall the car and not allow it to run under 5000rpm, heh.
6) Check your belts, make sure nothing drags really bad (like maybe the a/c clutch is going and is always locked on).
7) Is your catverter clean?