How to remove QUICK STEEL the best??
 

So long story short I plugged the coolant passage on the rear rotor housing with quick Steel when I assemblied my engine.

I already had this leak once SO I applied a little more over the leaking spot after I verified it with a leak tester.....

It held great for about a month BUT since I have been doing WOT pulls and tuning it finally sprung a very small leak last night. The coolants comes out of there instead of staying in the system on cool down.

My motor is close to pushing probably 360-370rwhp at 16psi so the engine (S4 13bt) is getting close to being pushed harder then usual and I think the quick steel just doesnt get a good bond there.


MY QUESTION is does anyone know of any chemical or trick that can make this Quick Steel an easy removal.

I just plan on drilling it and pulling chunks until I get to the passage and just plug it with a soft plug I got from Mazdatrix.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks

possibly try some aircraft grade stripper. might work but just a thought. otherwise dremel/drill it until you can break it up with a pair of pliers and take it off in chunks

That is what I plan on doing. Fuck me, this is a PERFECT example of Murphy's Law. Do it right the first time or work harder doing it over.


I know better......:icon_no2:

So I removed the UIM and LIM and found the leak after a pressure test.

Just used a small punch to get through the quick steel and then pryed it out.

NEXT problem is that the Rotor housing that was used must have been an NA housing that had that coolant passage originally casted closed. The previous owner dremeled through it and ruined the sealing surface for a soft plug. It will leak if I put in a soft plug.

I am gonna have to plug it with an actual NPT plug. I am hitting up the hardware store tomorrow but does anyonre know what size that would be.

I would imagine 1/2 inch.
Gonna be a bitch to tap, i might just thread it in. Hell, it is never coming out.

Other bad news is a small chunk of quick steel went down the coolant passage. about the size of a small pebble(half a marble in size). Makes me worried it will plug a passage way. aghhhhhh!

Too late now... but, brake fluid dissolves quick steel.

so.......soft plug will not fit. Tired it today and it leaked.

Tapped out the hole with a 3/4 tap. Pluged it and it still leaks. Problem is the orignal hole size casted from the factory is a little larger then 3/4. Since this hole was dremeled out to begin with the tap created some threads but not enough to get the job done. It leaks slowly.

I very well cant find a tap larger then 3/4 anywhere or a plug larger then 3/4 BUT smaller then 1 inch. an inch would be too big.

So after I about beat the fucking car with a hammer I went this route.........


I lined the 3/4 plug with quick steel. Screwed it in place. Filled the cavity with more quick steel.
Then I covered the entire area including going up and around the rotor housing casting to seal it with even more quick steel.

I did this to the rear rotor housing when that one sprung a leak the first time. When I originally installed the quick steel on both housings, I only put enough to fill the Inside Diameter of the coolant passage and o-ring recessed area. The SECOND time I sealed it, it sealed great since it had the extra surface area to "grab" on to. When I pressure tested yesterday the REAR rotor housing didn't leak at all.

In order to allow the LIM to seal against the ports when I beefed up the rear rotor housing I shaved off an area of the LIM sealing face. I made sure to leave enough area to ensure a good seal for the ports. I will have to do this to the other p[ortion of the LIM tomorrow.

I am extremly pissed I had to go this route and hope this holds. If it doesn't who knows what is next.

Here are some pics of the ugly rigged shit.