WonkoTheSane

iTrader: (2)

I'm trying to get my mildly ported engine in my 86 N/A running for the first time tonight. It will crank, and crank... and crank and crank... but it won't turn over. We sprayed starter fluid into the intake and it didn't make any difference.. I know that i'm getting spark, as I checked that, how do I adjust/check timing? I checked my CAS and make sure that the OHMs were well within spec (which they are), I made sure that there is definatly fuel pressure there, and I also made sure that the 5&6th ports were closed. (I have to temporaily wire them open).. There is pleny of lube in the engine, but i don't think it's flooded, as i opened the spark plugs fora few cranks and nothing excessive came out (like the time it was flooded).

I think one of my trailing coils is bad, but i think it would still attempt to crank.. it just sounds like it's spinning the engine, it doesn't start and then die, or sputter or anything, just crank and crank and crank...

any suggestions from the pros?

Thanks!
~Wonko The Sane

White_FC

Have you installed the CAS right (if you did it yourself..)

That was _my_ major problem.

Another thing that will help is adding some(or more than normal if you already premix) two-stroke oil to your fuel for the first little while.
That helps its start alot easier (raises compression somewhat)

WonkoTheSane

iTrader: (2)

how do you install the CAS wrong? I figured it was pretty simple, drop it in, and set the resistance, right?

I don't premix, but i'll see if that helps some time tomorrow maybe..

thanks

ERAUMAZDA

sounds like a ground

HAILERS

Pardon this newbe for asking, but *check what resistance?* I've been failing to check any resistance when I put one in. Where did I go wrong?

It sounds like the timing is off, like the man in the above post suggested. But I'm sure you alingned the front pulley with the pointer, then aligned the marks on the cas shaft , then inserted the cas while maintaining the alignment of the marks on the cas's shaft......but maybe something slipped while you were inserting the cas??? MIght double check that.

WonkoTheSane

iTrader: (2)

i'll definatly pull everything off and recheck the alignment.. i'll bet that is what happened, because i was busy paying attention to other things after i got the main pulley aligned you can check the OHMs from the CAS by checking the reisistance of the right two (upper and lower) pins, and the left two pins, the Haynes book or FSM can tell you how, but there's a specific range of OHMs that you're looking for, and you can then use that to adjust it to your liking.

RETed

If it's flooded, you'd smell it!
Smell the exhaust end - it should smell like gas.
If it's doesn't, you're not getting any fuel.
Check the ENGINE fuse in the driver's side kickpanel - this fuse tends to blow a LOT.  This fuse is for the fuel pump.

You really need an inductive timing light to check the timing.
I've done the initial CAS line-up procedures, but I still get it wrong from time to time.  A timing gun will confirm if you're spot on.


-Ted

WonkoTheSane

iTrader: (2)

I figured i'd need one to get precise, as I don't have access to one right now, but I'll see if i can get ahold of one. Thanks ted!

PS - we pulled a fuel line, that sucker is definatly pressurized

HAILERS

I think you have a small misunderstanding of the ohming out of the cas. That procedure is just to ensure that the coils are good in the cas. The resistance won't change no matter which way you turn the cas. No a biggy. Just thought I'd throw that in.

HAILERS

After you get the cas installed and bolted down, the upper two *gears* should be approx where the ones are in this jpg (sitting on top of a scanneer, so don't look for the hold down bolt).

http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...threadid=28714

That's with the pulley and pointer aligned also.

WonkoTheSane

iTrader: (2)

Hailers - Thanks for clearing up the OHm reading.. the book (haynes) made it sound like like that adjusted when you rotated the CAS.. Now, that pic is very helpful, I did/do have it timed properly.. I think i may have figured out my problem, though.. my EGI main relay is pretty much shot (rusted rather badly inside), so I think that's holding me down, because I don't believe the injectors can fire if it's nonfunctional... I'm going to open a thread asking the best place to get one, so i can see where to get a replacement

thanks for all your help.