How do you remove the studs from turbo to downpipe?
Any one know? Being that there is no hex area, and vices wont do it while also striping the threads, whats the trick?
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I just did this a few weeks ago. I used a combo of open end wrenches and sockets. The one on the pass. side of the car is best gotten from the top. Then theres one to get from the bottom. I had alot of trouble with the one on the drivers side. I out some penetrating oil on it. Was a pain but with some patience it they will all come off.
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I dont mean the nuts holding the downpipe on, but the studs those nuts are go onto. The turbo is in my living room with a stripped stud I need to replace.
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If you can't run a die down it to clean it up, try a LITTLE heat at the base with the grips. If still no good, just like broken manifold bolts, cut off flush, drill and tap for a new one. I've seen people weld nuts to studs and remove them that way, but they are usually working with a stud that's a lot longer. Should be interesting. Good Luck.
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ight take two nuts run one down as far as it can go,then run the second one into that one.then take the first one and reverse it into the secnd one so they have a tight ass fit,then take a 12 socket a long one that can go over both and act like it's a bolt with a head,the force on the two nuts will take the stud out.
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did you take off the presilencer off and the heat sheild.. coz it is blocking everything.. remove it so you have more room to work with.. it took me 2 hrs to do mine
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The turbo is right next to me on the floor!
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oh geez.. don't cut it then drill & tap.. that's gonna cause you some issues IMHO.
Take 2 of your downpipe nuts. Thread one of them on as far as it can go, then back it off a little. Next, thread another nut snug & tite up against the first one. Grab 2 wrenches, and turn the first one you put on AS TIGHT AS YOU CAN while holding the other one still with the other wrench. Now, you've created a "locked" point on there that you can use to pull it out with. Just loosen the stud using the first nut you put on there, and since loosening the stud will make the first nut even TIGHTER onto the 2nd stud, they'll (hopefully) hold together, and the stud will come out. Or you might do it on both nuts at the same time, I'm not 100% sure. Call a shop and ask them the proper way to do it. |
That method works great. Once the two nuts are locked together, use the spanner on the bottom one and it should lock against the top one and free the stud. Cake walk. ;)
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Ahhh crazy New Zealander called it a spanner! =)
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Oops, wrench! :D
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Rise from your grave...
Are the studs easily replaceable, once you get them out that is? Are they a common size, I believe one of mine was cross threaded by the previous owner, so I can't tighten it down, and it's giving me a slight exhaust leak.
Assuming I can get it out, I'd like to have a replacement ready, what size are they? |
Use a stud remover and plenty of PB Blaster
Stud Puller #1 MATCO Extractor If you decide to drill use left handed drill bits |
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and then?
OK, once I get the old studs out, is finding a replacement easy? are they of a common size, or do I have to get a mazda part?
Thanks, |
Well, I can't covince myself to go out to the garage and get a thread gauge out to measure the stud.....but try this site http://www.mazdaformance.com/rx7parts.htm
You'll find that the Mazda code is 13-6071 and the part number is N253-13-607A. You should buy four for the future. Plus the nutz. JPG: |
JPG: and thanks to BANZITOYOTA for the tool url's.
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hey boost once you done with that reply to my PMs and you might even try sending me my stuff that i paid for
sorry everyone else for this but he will no longer reply to my PMs and he hasnt sent me things that i paid for back in sept. |
consider he posted that in july that probbaly won't help you....
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ya i noticed that after i posted... my stupid fault
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stud remover and a blow torch. heat it up till you see orange the try the stud remover . be careful not to burn your self! if it is off the car you will have to put it in a vise.
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