How Do You Fix/Prevent Possible Pulsation Damper Failure?
 

Just to know how you guys go about fixing it so you dont catch on fire.

I used J-B weld on there. It'll never ever move.

And the title should have failiure in it somewhere...:( Mods?


:)

JB-Weld won't fix the pulsation damper. I'm not sure what you would be gluing? If you are JB-Welding the screw, then that won't help.

There is no way to fix a potential failure. Anything can fail at anytime. However you can basically eliminate the problem by replacing the 20 year old damper with a new one, either OEM or aftermarket.

yeah all you did was glue the screw to the metal housing . theres a rubber diaphram inside that the screw is supposed to be attached to thats why they fail

you really just need to periodically inspect it, and its good practise to look over the whole car too.

I heard that the screw from the PD falls off and then gas starts to leak from there and the car catches on fire at some point.
So, in my mind, by j-b wleding it, it wont fall off and the car wont catch on fire.

Wrong?

wrong, like i just said, it attaches to a rubber diaphram inside, that eventually detachs itself, once its failed theres no way to fix it put to replace it

Ok, when that fails, what happens? The car runs out of fuel and stops?

Atleast i prevented my car from catching on fire, no?

The diaphram itself wears out and tears, which will happen even if the screw is glued in place.

Put in a banjo bolt.

Newer PD, or a banjo bolt attached to a FPR that has a PD built in.

Or, that is what I have been told. I am running banjo bolt with after market FPR.

Use a banjo bolt to replace PD, I did and have not had any bad effects without the PD.

yup i'm running a banjo bolt also with no problems

actually, i had this in my car at one point before i got another PD. JB Weld can work provided you do it with the cap that the PD has and you like sandwich it. Basically put the screw in tightly (unless its already there), Put JB Weld all over the little dip (see picture i attached) and then put the cap on. you should have enough JB Weld so it kinda smushes and very very very little oozes out. Let it dry and presto. Essentially even if the diaphram fails you basically created a banjo bolt.

:wallbash: Whats the point of JB weld here, a PD failure(anyway u look at it) is nothing to mess with. If you want to take that chance on allowing ur car to catch fire at any given time, when it could be avoided by all means use ur stupid jb weld shiit. Just hope you can jump out of the car quickly at ANY time, but ur car will be toast!!

:madfawk:

just replace it or remove it

That will still leak. You'll get leaks where the metal diaphram cover is crimped to the base.

Basically, the only choice is to replace the damper with new. They aren't that expensive, compared to the cost of a new engine bay wiring harness after the fire. There are also aftermarket dampers which fit with some modifications (see Archives).

If you want to hack the car, then you can use the banjo bolt method. Make sure to check the Archived topic "Skeptic of PD banjo bolt" for a lot of information on why you might NOT want to go this way.

And how do you figure it will leak? the screw is in...its JB Welded and covered so it cant come out... the cap is on there sandwiched and sealed. So your saying the fuel is gonna leak from the crimped base? Thats a first! I wonder why it wouldnt do that before when you have a good PD i mean the screw is in there stopping the fuel. Essentially all we did here is just create a banjo bolt if the diaphram fails nothing more. I have done my research about PD failure and the goods/bads if that what you were trying to alluring me to.

The only choice is NOT to replace the damper with a new one, there are a few more options depending on what people want to do/criteria they have. You can banjo bolt it if you wish (not saying its the greatest way, but it is a solution), you can get a marren PD and modify your rails/lines to have that, you can get a FPR (ones that have built in PD) and modify your railes/lines. There is no conclusive information saying you need to have a PD no matter what or else your car is gonna blow up.

Personally i have gotten a Marren PD ready to go in, just waiting on some fuel line parts to come in. I have it because before i did my reaseach i thought "OMG I NEED IT NOW MUST GET IT OR THE WORLD IS COMING TO AN END" but after research i realised its not concrete that you need it. I have it, i might as well put it in and try to do some more research with it.

A banjo bolt isnt really hacking the car, its stopping fuel from leaking. If you can, please point me to some hard solid proof about how not having a PD WILL ABSOLUTLEY cause failure of something and there are NO OTHER VARIABLES. The PD Skeptic thread is just that, information on both why you do and dont wanna do the Banjo Bolt. There is alot of information in that thread i agree and anyone should read it to get the full facts or rather as much information as they can before doing this. But to each his own.

Disassemble a PD so you see how it works. Therein lies your answer. :)

Reread the thread. Maxthe7man talks quite a bit about how he blew his engine due to lack of a pulsation damper.

Dissassemble the PD, i hacked one a while back in 1/2. By no means was it a clean cut however i see how it works, my answer is still the same, You have just created a banjo bolt. So you first said it was going to leak even though you have JB welded the screw and cap, through some metal diaphram is crimped to the base and now your saying for me to dissassemble it to see how it works? Umm.. i know how it works i just said in my previous post that IF the diaphram does fail instead of the fuel leaking out of the screw hole all you have done is created a banjo bolt. I mean its not that hard of a concept to grasp, can you maybe read over what i said again and maybe point to what part of it you didnt understand. Seems to me you keep pointing in another direction after i say the same thing. I have already cut one apart, i know that JB welding it works, and i dont see how the fuel can somehow blow thru this metal diaphram when the fluid force has another direction to flow (to the secondary rail, to the regulator and then to the return line).

Hrm i read it over again just to make sure i wasnt missing anything, umm... Maxthe7man wrote 2 posts... and even then the INFORMATION WAS INCONCLUSIVE there was theories on what it could be, but it wasnt seen as "YES THE PD FAILED AND HENCE XYZ HAPPENED". Could it have been a factor? Possibly (but again that is up for debate). Was it the only reason the fuel setup malfunctioned? No. Please, hows about you reread that thread and read what Reted and RotaryRessurection have stated. There were only 2 known cases where the PD COULD have been an issue and in both it was not 100% singled out there were more issues then just the PD there so again, you have conclusive information where? Maxthe7man does bring up some good points as do some of the other guys in that thread. That thread talks about the goods and bads of PD and it comes down to there is no factual hard conclusive evidence that removing the PD WILL cause failure absolutely positively. I believe it does help the fuel system, yes, however its not the be all and end all of the fuel system. By removing it it wont 100% cause your car to malfunction and blow up.

I'll give you a way out tho, if its your OPINION that you must have a PD, then thats fine, but saying that the ONLY choice is the replace it with a new one, is hardly the ONLY choice. Each person has a right to their opinon and i respect that you believe the PD is essential to a fuel system, but please dont assume your opinon is the ONLY opinon and it has to be on there (the way you make it seem is as such.). And to just clarify, i am not saying you absolutely dont need a PD, i am saying that there isnt conclusive proof, and that each should make up their own mind as to use it or not to. (however i can see how my opinon could also be seen as me pushing no pd is the only way, and for that i do apologise)

Be careful what you claim...
I've seen this first-hand myself.

Since you like quoting Max...
Tell him to shove the PD where the sun don't shine.

Your FPR is just a PD with a bleed.
The rubber hoses act as a PD.
Eliminating the PD doesn't automatically kill the engine.
I'm running no PD - I have a banjo bolt in there - my engine is running perfectly.

There's a LOT of other ways to kill and engine than to blame the PD.
I'd blame Max's crappy tuning skills before blaming the lack of a PD.


-Ted

i've been running a banjo bolt for almost 3000 miles

Ive been running it for 600 miles with no problem, engine runs better, I think!!

I've been running a banjo bolt since nov 2002. No ill effects.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/skeptic-banjo-bolt-pd-elimination-mod-395021/
Archive FTW! (thanks Aaron)

Your PD will leak and eventually start a fire unless you replace it or banjo bolt it. If you banjo bolt it, your car is missing a functional part with a definate, well-recognized purpose among all auto manufacturers, new and old. So think about it, just as you would if you removed any other "unnecessary" mechanism from your car. Read the archived thread, weigh your options, make a decision.

IMO it seems to be a case of, "Why do I need the 2nd safety net? When I remove it, everything works fine!"

I guess I should put back the catalytics, air pump, EGR valve, and all that related emissions stuff, huh?


-Ted