How Do You Adjust AFM?
How do i adjust my (afm) i think it is? or the (mass air flow Meter). right behind the airbox on my 88 glx there is a screw if turned counter clock wise what will it do to the mixture?
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If it's on the AFM itself, DON'T MESS WITH IT - it's a calibration screw, and you'll most likely mess up how the car runs if you mess with it.
If you're talking about the R - L screw on the strut tower, that's an idle mixture screw that only adjusts air / fuel mixtures at idle. -Ted |
No not the idle controll screw. the screw on the afm itsself.
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DON'T TOUCH IT!
-Ted |
I asked what it would do turned counter clock wise..Didnt really ask for you to tell me not to mess with it..I wanted to know What it does to the mixture.. If you have no idea Please Dont reply
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you would probably need the specs to be able to adjust the AFM adjustment screw, i haven't seen the spec for it anywhere or an adjustment procedure so ditto what Ted said ^.
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I vote turn it and let us know what happens.
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can i get a response from someone that knows anything. or am i gona get the run around. OK so Dont mess with it! ok allready. Now Anyone Knows what the Mixture would change to if the afm screw is adjusted counterclock wise
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if you got a wideband handy and a spare AFM then i say GO FOR IT!
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I am curious, why do you want to change it?
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Ok im gona turn it Exactly 4 turns and ill let you all know what happends...Im bored
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all it does is adjust the idle air bleed, past the flapper door.
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I dont know maybe cause i like to fiddle,
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afm reads incoming air? correct? that tells the ECU how much fuel to dump? thats what i have heard
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that's what it does, but if the door closed completely then you would have no air flow, hence the bleed for starting and low idle.
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Since you really want to fuck with it, here's the nitty gritty details...
That screw controls a bypass passage around the flapper door. The MAZDA FACTORY adjusts this once just to get the car running according to their specs. All it does is increase or descrease a small amount of airflow around the main passage through the AFM. It will fuck your idle up. It will NOT significantly affect AFM signal at higher RPM's. The majority of airflow with go through the main passage through the flapper door, since it's opened significantly. Remember, there is also a fuel pump cut-out switch integrated in the AFM. If you open that screw too much, too much airflow will bypass the main passage and the door will start to close. It can close enough to trip this switch, and the fuel pump will keep turning off. I be the Mazda factory adjusts this switch low enough to be right above the fuel pump cut-out switch trigger threshold. So, you're just fucking with your idle. It doesn't affect air / fuel ratio significantly higher than idle. This is why I recommend not to fuck with it. -Ted |
so then ya put it back. cant be that hard
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I have an s4 maybe its the s5's your talkin about,
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so basicly there is no point to take your car into the shop for a tune up..cause you cant really "tune" it cause its allready calibrated? that makes no sence. calibration can over many many years Be off. i can change plugs wires, and all other things myself. So if these things cant be tuned then whats the point
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Well can you change duty cycle with out a haltech
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Stopbeingapussyandtakethecoveroffandstartadjusting thespringbesuretohaveaspareworkingafmhandybecausey ouwillfuckthelivingdaylightsoutofit.
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Originally Posted by Adam
I have an s4 maybe its the s5's your talkin about,
S5 = plunger I don't think the S5 even has an adjustment screw? DUH -Ted |
Originally Posted by Adam
so basicly there is no point to take your car into the shop for a tune up..cause you cant really "tune" it cause its allready calibrated?
No, you do NOT take the car into a shop to get the *AIR FLOW METER* adjusted. You take the car into the shop to get a *TUNE UP*. Please figure out what the difference is before asking more bad questions. If you need help on this, don't hesitate to ask. that makes no sence. calibration can over many many years Be off. The engine wears out. Parts wear out. Compression goes down. Power goes down. REBUILD THE ENGINE or GET A NEW ENGINE BEFORE FUCKING WITH THE AFM. i can change plugs wires, and all other things myself. So if these things cant be tuned then whats the point Ok, so you replace the spark plug wires when they are worn out. How about you go to the Mazda dealer to get a brand new AFM for $1,000+ cause your AFM is worn out??? Does that make sense now??? -Ted |
Originally Posted by RETed
You're getting retarded on what you're trying to do.
No, you do NOT take the car into a shop to get the *AIR FLOW METER* adjusted. You take the car into the shop to get a *TUNE UP*. Please figure out what the difference is before asking more bad questions. If you need help on this, don't hesitate to ask. You're right. The engine wears out. Parts wear out. Compression goes down. Power goes down. REBUILD THE ENGINE or GET A NEW ENGINE BEFORE FUCKING WITH THE AFM. So explain to me what does changing spark plugs wires have to do with adjusting the AFM? Ok, so you replace the spark plug wires when they are worn out. How about you go to the Mazda dealer to get a brand new AFM for $1,000+ cause your AFM is worn out??? Does that make sense now??? -Ted |
Also im not talking about Replacing an AFM. Im talking about getting REcalibrated. SHEESH .thats if it even Needs it..agian i dont know.. WHat if they do need to be adjusted. and no one does it. btw 1,000 bucks RIPHOFF. first place i would be is the Junk yard. But i hardly think adjusting the screw is going to Destroy it.
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