how do i fix my false disengagment for good?
I have a S4 base with a S4 Jdm swapped motor and drivetrain. I replaced the master, the slave, I have a ss flex clutch hose. Replaced the throw out bearing and the pilot. But my car still has this issue. Pedal feels ok. I am going to replace the clutch. I am so tired of this issue that I am not buying the autozone cheapy. Which clutch is good for a turbo with 3in down cat delete?
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So...what's the issue exactly?
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+1, what the fuck is false disengagement?
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when you push the clutch pedal to the floor and power is still going to the wheels. like I didn't push the clutch in at all.
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adjust the clutch pedal dog. I've seen it before...
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This time there was a lot of noise. but i will give it a try.
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can be a broken clutch fork pivot ball, locked up pilot bearing or air in the system.
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It is like I am not pushing the clutch in at all. and it wasn't progressive, just showed up.
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cmon man, look at the simplest fixes before fixing a complex problem.
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The throw out arm is on top the transmission. The clutch slave cylinder piston moves the throw out arm. Is the arm moving when you press the clutch pedal?
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Interesting thread.... after you check that everything is moving.... you may have to adjust it at the peddle under the dash. I had to adjust mine quite a bit to get my clutch to disengage all the way.... loosen the nut (10mm wrench I think) and adjust it out.... tighten the nut back down.
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^ I did adjust it. Haven't driven the car since. I did order a clutch for it. The clutch that is in there now I got off ebay, it is not a name brand.
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^^ Doesn't matter, I've used some ebay 6 pluck clutch. Have you had someone pump the pedal to see if the slave moves the fork in and out?
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Bleed the hydraulics?
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Originally Posted by 2slow4stock
(Post 10784588)
have you had someone pump the pedal to see if the slave moves the fork in and out?
Do it. Do it now. |
I just picked up the clutch from the parts store. But it came with two bearing that I have no idea where they go. It came with the pilot and throwout bearings plus two more roller bearings. any ideas.
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Originally Posted by raksj04
(Post 10788699)
I just picked up the clutch from the parts store. But it came with two bearing that I have no idea where they go. It came with the pilot and throwout bearings plus two more roller bearings. any ideas.
http://reviews.cnet.com/sc/33517665-2-440-OVR-1.gif |
pitch the ball bearings into the garbage, they're not used.
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im with the other guy, sounds like you broke the pivot ball for the clutch fork.
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The pilot bearing is toast, and you are going to have one heck of a time getting it out. It's in the center of the e-shaft and your transmission pilot shaft is probably buggered up.You need a slide hammer type pilot bearing puller to get it out.
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^ well I just replaced the pilot bearing, if it is bugged up after about 2 weeks I have no idea what i did wrong. I was able to drive the car today after I adjusted the cltuch pedal. it is not perfect but I can drive it. I am going to adjust the pedal more and see what happens.
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The pilot bearing is known to fail when installing the transmission. Especially if you use the 'bolt trick' to push the trans on.
My failing pilot bearing has symptoms of 'When then the bearing was cold the car shifted fine, when hot it would make metallic grinding noise when the clutch was pushed in and would get harder and harder to shift' One test to do is to put the car in first, press in the clutch and then start the car with the clutch pressed in. If the car moves then the clutch is not fully disengaged. |
I did the car didnt move. with the clutch in. the car is harder to shift when moving slower or stop. at speed it shifts easier
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Did you properly torque the pressure plate? Over-torqued pressure plate will cause the "fingers" on the plate to be further in reducing the amount of disconnect when you press the clutch pedal down. Of course it will shift "easier" at speed because the syncros are assisting you. Everyone here has covered the basics and most probable causes a: damaged pilot from either wear, improper bearing install or improper transmission install, b: poor clutch hydraulic performance and c: throw out fork/pivot ball failure. If your absolutely certain the trans has been installed correctly and you didn't use the criss cross bolt method to pull the trans into the bearing, they hydraulics are working properly and are properly bled, the throw out arm and pivot ball are moving properly and the pressure plate was properly aligned and torqued you shouldn't have any issues.
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arghx you where right. I adjusted the pedal further and it seems much better. The pedal even feels firmer
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