Hot Start Problems With My '87 TII
 

ok...this might seem kind of stupid but its worth a try...no flaming pls.. lol

every time my car is at regular temps and i boost for a lil bit and i turn off the car or if i stall..i try to turn it on, and the car wount start..wats the problem here...do i need a turbo timer?:confused:

it has 142k miles...

mods: airfilter, FCD, NGK SPARK PLUGS AND WIRES, DOWNPIPE AND MUFFLERS(idk wat brands).



NO A/C AND NO P/S


EVERYTHING ELSE IS STOCK


any ideas..or suggestions would help.

thank you

how long do you let it run before shutting it down? My first guess would be that its flooding out. You need to run it a bit before you shut it down.

well i let it run for like 3-4 mins.. 5 mins max... but sometimes when i stall and i try turning it on. it wount start.

Could be a sign of low compression as well, especially with that many miles on the engine.

I agree with the previous comments. Either your injectors are leaky and flooding the engine, or the compression is low and your engine is going out. Get your injectors cleaned by RC engineering. Also check the compression.

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...ion_check.html

a sign?

the engine runds good tho!!

Just because the engine runs good doesn't necessarily mean you're not losing compression slowly over time. 142k is getting up there in mileage. I'd suggest doing a compression test and seeing what the #'s are. That will be your deciding factor.

Then again, it could just be leaky injectors.

ok...i guess ill do the test

The car I looked at today ('87 TII w/ 86,000 miles) has about the same problem. We replaced the starter and it fired right up and ran real well except that it had an idle problem until it had run for about 5 minutes. You had to hold the gas to keep it from dying and there the idle would pulse from 1000 to 1250 RPMs a couple times each second. So after it ran for a little while it held an idle fine, but then we couldn't start it after shutting it down (and a few minutes of cooldown idling). We checked the compression with a standard gauge from the trailing (upper) plug holes and got about 70-70-70 on the rear and 65-65-70 on the front (I JUST called the guy who helped me check it and he said he didn't hold the accelerator down, meaning the throttle body wasn't wide open to get plenty of air in there). We suspected flooding, but the trailing plugs were pretty much dry so we checked one of the leading plugs and it was slightly moist, possibly enough to just be from oil. However I do understand that if it's flooding then a compression reading will be low, plus, I have a precedent with the last car I looked at which I'm certain wasn't burning all its fuel, some guy botched a compression check and got 70 front and 30 rear, but the buyer got 90's all around I believe, so that makes me hopeful that this car I'm getting actually has good compression. Until this week the car sat for several months in a heated garage and the oil tank had been boiled and coated before it was stored and all the injectors are very new, so I'm a little concerned after reading ^^^. What can you guys tell me about that? Did I get a decent compression reading and the motor needs new seals, is it flooding only slightly, or is there some other reason it won't hot-start? I was told that if it was flooding the plugs should be wet, but maybe it doesn't take much at all and our understanding of 'wet' was actually 'soaked', and what we observed was in fact 'wet'. I do plan on buying this car this week, I just want to research this as much as possible.

I'm very excited btw!

edit: additionally, the battery is pretty new, but still might not have turned the motor at the full 250 RPM.

ALOS..sometimes when i try to turn on the car, the car just clicks..this happens rarely tho..u guys think its the starter?

well that issue is defiantley the starter

Also, could the pulsing throttle be caused by a poor PD that needs replacing?

well...i found out how to turn on the car if it doesnt want to turn on. ill i got to do is give it some gas.lol fuk it.....it works. my cuz has the same problem, but his is a 87 n/a.

you'd still be better off checking compression so you have an idea of when a rebuild should be done. it will likely cost you significantly LESS if you catch a motor on its way out rather than let an apex seal blow and take out a housing and probably a rotor, too.

If you know how to extract a wire from one of the ECU plugs, then I can give you a possible short term idea on how to make the engine start with *hot start* problems.

Just write back yes or no. I do not do PM's ever.

no....

thanks anyways

Clean your injectors, ompression test if you want to know if the engine will last muh longer.

Or you can just leave it as it is and call me when it blows.