so it might be a good idea to link that baby back up? i did the removal personally from Landers Write up... i believe it said:"leave it open to vent to atmosphere" or something like that. Could i re-attach it to let it do its job without adding the rest of that stuff?

Well it does two things when hooked up (well actually three things).

It helps suck out any moisture, and dumps it into the intake to be burned.

It helps suck out any gas that is leaking past the seals (as gasoline vaporizes easier than oil) and dumps it into the intake to be burned.

and it prevents things from getting into the oil in the pan.

I am not sure why Kevin would have removing it... it has no effect on power... I guess because he likes working on an engine with minimal hoses/tubing running through. Maybe he will pipe in here and provide his logic to justify the removal.

But just venting to the atmosphere, well... as you have seen, just venting has no scavaging effect at all. It won't help suck anything that shouldn't be there out.

just to let you guys know its called a pcv valve not pvc... just letting you know. It stands for positive crankcase ventilation.

There is not a crankcase on a rotary.

Heres the exact quote..

"cap lower oil tube nipple. The upper one must remain vented, either to atmosphere, or to an oil catch can."

So yeah.. i wonder what i should do? Is there a way to run that guy and not reinstall all that other stuff..? I don't remember if it linked to the emissions or not.

Never mind.. it sounds like not... From this explanation... i think i can figure out how to re-install

take some penicillin.....someone gave your 7 an STD.

So could one just run a vacuum line from the oil fill tube to the intake? And if so, before or after the AFM?

Yes. I fixed this problem by routing a hose from both sources (at the base of the filler neck on the engine and the one on the filler tube itself) to the intake. It fixed the problem, although it will take quite a few hundred miles for it all to "disappear". Route both lines to the intake BEFORE the afm. Also, change the oil when it's mostly or halfway gone. Just be patient for it to go away.

Brian

Yes, after the throttle butterfly's, but...

The big advantage of using the factory valve, is that it only sucks on high vacuum situations (such as lift throttle, or coasting in gear), as opposed to always being on.

Of course on a Turbo this is even more important, as you don't really want to pressurize any part of the oil pan (which will lead to additional cavitation in the oil and eventually oil pan and end seal leaks).

ok.. slap me cause i haven't taken the time to do the above mentioned vacuum mods yet.. but thot id mention.. in addition to the nasty build up, heres another interesting side effect... The oil cap has developed a crack in it... this would be the second time this happened... weird...