HKS BOV Install Question. Please Help
 

Okay, well, I got my new bov in from ebay. It's the hks "oldschool" direct port Super Blow Off Valve. Now, I removed the stock bov and put the hks in. I hooked it up to the UIM and plugged off the extra nipple. When I started my car, it idled high for about 2 minutes before dying, after that, it would only idle up to 700, then drop to 500, then stall. Needing to get to work in about 30 min, I took it out and put the stock one in.

After that, it was idling really high (over 2k) and wouldn't go down. I tried to install the new one again and then the car would start and immediately stall. So, I dropped the stock back in and went to work. The car now idles at 1400 and jumps back and forth to 1500-1600 the whole time. I have work tomorrow morning and would like to get this fixed this weekend, since it's my only car. I was told it could be the plug for the BAC cause it is broken up and really doesn't stay on. If anyone can help me quickly, thank you, I need my car running. My mods are in my sig. Here are some pictures of the BOV:

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/tr4c3/SUC50069.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/tr4c3/SUC50068.jpg

Wanted to add before I head off to bed, did I screw up and install it wrong? I didn't get any instructions (obviously), and have no clue how to install one, sorry.

I have the same BOV but havn't had a chance to here it because I am still waiting for my Microtech ECU to arrive. Can't help you out but post how the newer BOV sounds.

-good luck, Dustin.

Bump before I go off to work.

Bump for a friend.

Bump, I need this idle problem to go away.

big vac leak. Did you check the hose that goes from the BAC to the BOV charge pipe? I'm assuming the charge pipe your HKS BOV is on doesnt even have a nipple for the BAC air source and that you probably just capped the end when installing? Also on reinstall check to see if you put that hose back on properly with hose clamps to the stock charge pipe.

The cut rubber hose in the 2nd piece is where it attaches onto the BAC. The 2nd nipple on the gold connecter was capped. The little plug on the BAC is cracked pretty badly and doesn't always stay on. Could this be the problem? We found a cracked vacuum hose when we took the bov off so we replaced it. I'll have to check again for more leaks.
-Eric

I made a mistake, we just plugged the hole in the tid where the BAC was when we installed the hks one, the rubber hose was somewhere else, my mistake.

Okay, well, I went out and checked everything over, and guess what I found. Well, the clamps weren't even tightened. My friend put the stock bov back in, and both clamps around the charge pipe were loose and easily movable. Well, I took the stock bov out and have the hks one in again. I need to get new vacuum hose cause I think I was getting a leak from the one off of the UIM. Now, If you look at the gold connector in the 2nd pic I have posted, Should I just cap off the 2nd nipple, or does it go somewhere? Also, what should I do with the hole where the BAC was on the TID? Tomorrow I will finish everything, the car is in my garage now.

Keeping it on the front page.

The HKS BOV is in and the car is running, but it's running like it did before, sitting at 1400 and jumping back and forth to 15-1600 (like revving). I replaced a few vacuum lines and it hasn't changed. At least it is running with the new bov though. What should I use to plug the tid?
-Eric


Edit: Want to add that the car jumps to 3k like cold start now when I start it, and cold start never worked before.

Okay, more pictures. Picture one is the bov installed. Now the bov has 2 hoses on it and they go into a fitting. The fitting is picture 2. I capped off the extra nipple cause it wasn't used (I don't even know if I would need to use it). Picture 3 shows the nipple on the UIM where the fitting is attached to. Now, should their only be one line coming off of the bov? I saw a thread on teamfc3s and the guy said the line coming off of the side is the return line. Should the line on the back/bell part be attached somewhere else?
Big pics:
Pic 1:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/tr4c3/c9600888.jpg

Pic 2:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/tr4c3/7c3a78b7.jpg

Pic 3:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/tr4c3/SUC50071.jpg

Bump...

hmm, i have this HKS BOV, mine may be an earlier model because my vacuum nipple is in a different spot but i only run one vacuum line to the BOV, the one off the stock BOV, and i plugged the whole in the TID, i don't know why you're plugging the BAC as you stated earlier this has nothing to do with it. I don't see a need for your vacuum line splitter.

Here is a vid of what it does. I do not use the gas at all. I know the stock bac is not blocked off but I don't have anything to block it off with. Could this hopefully be the problem? It did the same thing when the stock bov/bac was hooked up.

http://media.putfile.com/BOV-Problem

Edit: I took the line off of the back of the bov and I plugged the 2 nipples on the gold connector. Still no change.

Plugged the tid with a cap. Still idles funny. Going to check for vacuum leaks tomorrow.

Question: did you just leave the stock recalculated BOV attached to your TID? That might be your problem if you just pulled the vacuum line from the original BOV and plumbed it to your new one. With no pressure to the stock BOV it remains open hence a 1" dia hole in your TID. Take it out and plug the hole with a rubber stopper (home depot) and seal it in with some RTV (silicone)

I just noticed it in your video.

TR - all opinions and thoughts expressed are my own and therefore have no logistic backing other than me.

EDIT: after watching your vid a couple of times I really think that's your problem. try capping off the original BOV with some duct tape to test, then go get a real fix.

I went and plugged the tid with a cap I got from home depot. It still idles high so it must be somewhere else. I have one line coming off the side of the bov going to the UIM, and the line on the bell part is off. The bov works fine, just the idle is off.

I just brightened your first pic up a bit in Pshop, is the line shown the only one that comes off the BOV? if it is I don't see the point in having all of the rest of that plumbing?

to test to see if you left something off (pain in the @$$) replace all the original plumbing to the original BOV and see how it runs...

P.S. how do you incorporate large pics into your post?

TR

There is a line that comes off the back, and it went into a t-fitting. I removed the one on the back and only have the line on the side going to the UIM. We had the stock bov in and it was still idling like that. Also, I just upload all my pictures to photobucket and just copy and paste the links.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...c/DSC03307.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...c/DSC03297.jpg


thats how mine is