HIDs question
 

good afternoon everyone.

I just received my HID lights from ddm tuning last night. I unpacked them and tried to make sense of how I can hook them up. I did order the non hi/low beams so its just going to be the low beams, correct?

I don't have any pictures on hand, but if anyone has ordered them from ddm tuning and connected them, how did you do it?

There are only two wires coming off the ballast that look like they can have something hooked up to them. One of them is blue and has a spade on the end. The other one is black and also has a spade on it.

I know I need to power the ballast and ground it, but what about activating the bulb for when i need to drive during the night? Is the blue wire some sort of activation/power wire and the black is the ground?

I know a little about wiring but I've never done HIDs before.

You're first mistake, a big one, was not getting the high/lo.

That said, the bulb goes into the housing, the harness from the bulb plugs into the harness from the ballast. The black spade goes into the ground stock headlight connector, the blue goes into the low beam power on that same connector.

My very very strong recommendation, return what you got and get the Hi/Lo.

yeah you should have got the high/lo units..

Let us know how that goes though, i been looking at that kit.

I offer high/low hid kits. Pm me for details.

yea that was my bad. i'll post pics of how they look though.

meh, u can work with a low beam kit only. you really dont need high beams if u have HIDs in a good housing. They send light much further. I got a low beam kit in my honda with pop ups in a e-code housing and they are great. they throw a lil light high but its sill great for DD.

So, when you get hit head on by someone that was blinded by that "lil light high", I wonder if you'll still say this is ok?:icon_tdow:lol::lol:

+1. A good housing would be a true projector housing

^Agreed. However, if you use a good ECode housing, just be sure and adjust the cut off a little extra low and you're almost as good. Setting it low shouldn't be an issue as everything in front of you will light up when you hit your high beams.

Wait, you don't have high beams. More reason to send it back and get a Hi/Lo set up.

If you can't send it back, you can still get good value out of what you bought by installing it into your fogs. If the bulbs you got aren't the replacement for the stock (I believe) H4 fog bulb, you can get replacement bulbs (I recommend 3000k's for a yellow light) off Ebay sellers pretty inexpensively. Most all balasts you get with these kind of kits are universal otherwise. With a simple hole cutter for the stock bulb mount unit, modification to install is not that intense. And you'll be amazed what a difference your fogs will be.

Attached is a picture to see what 3000k's look like. Note how pronounced the light is below the fogs. HUGE improvement over stock, and certainly no blinding possibilities by the very nature of the fog lense design. And you get the JSpec fog look like in my Infini Avitar.

I think it's just me and the picture angle, but those look almost green haha. Re-aiming the headlights will work but it's still no comparison to a proper projector set up. I believe the S5 fogs are either H1 oe H3. The headlights are H4/9003 plug style. I'm also curious OP as to what temp you got? 4300k is the perfect temp for most light output while being the whitest. The higher up you go, the more color you get, the less useable light you actually have.

^ FirebirdSlayer666 has certainly done his homework. And it is indeed a bit more green than the light my JSpec fogs throw off. But WAY brighter than my JSpec fogs. I stand corrected, stock fog bulbs are H3's

Said differently, 4,300k is a more a daylight type light. 6000k is a bit whiter light. As you move up the temperature scale, the light becomes more purple.

The most "lux" (unit of illuminance and luminous emittance) is emitted at the lower temperature (ie for most available HID after market bulbs, 3000k better than 4300k which in turn is better than 6000k, etc)

However, you don't want 3000k bulbs as even though they actually would be the best, you're guaranteed to get a ticket as that would scream not DOT approved. 4300k is nearest the color of a stock headlight, 6000k is the nearest color of most OEM HID headlights.

Hella E-codes... end of story as far as H4 housings go! Right @ $102.00 shipped w/ 3-day guarantee deliver from Rallylights.com.

I have Hella's in one car. In the other I have Cibe's with incorporated city/parking light I got from here. A bit more expensive, but the city lights in the housings makes your ASpec FTP's also function like the JSpec ones.

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/p.../products.html

Just don't mention you intend on putting HID's in them. The proprieter considers HID retrofits are of the devil, but would grudgingly admit FirebirdSlayers approach could be an exception.

If I'm trying to get HIDs from DDM Tuning, what bulb or kit should I get?

Close. Stock headlights are actually 3100k or 3500k, I don't remember exactly. Factory HID's are 4300k and 6000k being one of the most popular aftermarket HID temps.

I plan to eventually take a set of those cheap ass eBay "projector" headlights and open them up to retrofit a set of 90MM Hella projectors in them. Should turn out pretty clean and close to the TSX retrofit that a few have done.
Even on my Kia, I plan to purchase a set of retrofited headlights from Korea to run HID's with. There's a nsaty glare spot as it is with the factory headlights, i wouldn't even dream of running HID's in the factory housings

What are the stock bulb sizes?

Factory sealed beam number is H6054. If using an H4 housing with replaceable halogen bulb, H4/9003 is the bulb number