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Help identifying mysterious connector
While continuing my attempts to get my 88 n/a that mysteriously stopped turning on to turn on again, I found this cable coming from a black connector near the tps connector broken off a nut it connects to under the intake elbow. The nut it connects to is under the intake manifold. There is another one that actually is connected. Pics attached I circled the nut/connector and the cable in the second image In the first image the cable is in my hand and the black cable running from my hand attaches to the connector near tps i mentioned any clue what this is and if it has to do with starting? maybe I accidentally ripped it off and thats causing my no start? https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...91850a244.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...26870f5cf.jpeg |
Whats your car doing?
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https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2660ca5b23.jpg
Originally Posted by FührerTüner
(Post 12333067)
Whats your car doing?
also I've been searching through the forum and fsm nonstop since posting this thread trying to identify it. The closest I got was this very helpful picture from the FSM labeling what seems to be my mysterious connectors "connectors" Hopefully some actual info on them is somewhere else in the fsm |
Originally Posted by dorrifto dorrito
(Post 12333071)
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2660ca5b23.jpg
When I try to start, it begins to turn over but soon sputters out and the starter keeps cranking. itll begin to catch again if i keep going at the starter but it gets less and less close to actually starting. also I've been searching through the forum and fsm nonstop since posting this thread trying to identify it. The closest I got was this very helpful picture from the FSM labeling what seems to be my mysterious connectors "connectors" Hopefully some actual info on them is somewhere else in the fsm |
Originally Posted by FührerTüner
(Post 12333147)
I cant tell by what that even is is your hand from the pictures. Removing the UIM would give you a better look.
Taking uim off tomorrow to change/inspect primary injectors. But for now: I think if I find out the name of this area I’ll be able to replace this sensor. Its connected by an air hose to the air pump. There is one that is not broken. Here are much better pics of everything. I circled the non broken one in green and the broken in red in one of the pics https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...de0304f76.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...03700c2f7.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...de9b4fc1d.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...9bb4e4241.jpeg |
okay so it looks like it is one of the split air solenoid valves
Could this be the cause of my no start condition? I am going to order a new sensor now. I was going to replace my injectors tomorrow as well so lets hope both those things combined solves my issue. |
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...dd8465591.jpeg Yeah definitely not related to starting, I could care less about emissions right now Here’s a pic of the sensor for anyone trying to identify their port air solenoid |
I honestly doubt that sensor is the main culprit of your no start condition. I'd start by fixing that wiring. It really looks terrible.
Then, I'd go to the basics. Check for fuel and spark, and pull the plugs to see if theyre wet or dry. Whats the background? Sitting for a while? Just bought it? |
Ok so I just read your started threads and got some background on whats going on. I saw some better pics of your engine harness. You need to solder and shrink tube all of those wires. That's all of your engine crap, and it's a variable that needs to be eliminated first. For all you know your fuel injectors could be shorting and just dumping fuel. From your previous posts, I'm going to guess your engine is flooded. Have you tried the proper deflooding precedure(s)? Sometimes I had to disable the injectors, pull the plugs out, and turn the engine over until I could see no more fuel vapor was coming out of the housings. Check for spark, deflood, and try to start it again.
EDIT: I also see that you have the AFM removed, probably for the better view. In case you dont know, the engine wont start without it connected to the intake system. |
that broken off conector on the air control valve should have zero effect on starting it will run fine with that just left unplugged, leave the sensor in the hole tho.
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Originally Posted by FührerTüner
(Post 12333244)
Ok so I just read your started threads and got some background on whats going on. I saw some better pics of your engine harness. You need to solder and shrink tube all of those wires. That's all of your engine crap, and it's a variable that needs to be eliminated first. For all you know your fuel injectors could be shorting and just dumping fuel. From your previous posts, I'm going to guess your engine is flooded. Have you tried the proper deflooding precedure(s)? Sometimes I had to disable the injectors, pull the plugs out, and turn the engine over until I could see no more fuel vapor was coming out of the housings. Check for spark, deflood, and try to start it again.
EDIT: I also see that you have the AFM removed, probably for the better view. In case you dont know, the engine wont start without it connected to the intake system. So I got it started again. yes I know about the afm flapper door/valve. So I found some bad injector wiring and cleaned it up a bit. history: previous owner swapped in what looks like a jdm engine 90k miles ago. Actual owner is gone, relative sold it to me Currently: I started it, white smoke bc it was flooded. It kept dying after warmup cycle would complete but kept starting no problems. I got gas (on foot), kept dying, adjusted for more air at idle. Now its “sitting” at 1.5k rpms. It dips to 1.4 and bumps up to 1.7. This is repeating endlessly. Down to 1.4, bump up to 1.7. the whole process is about a 3-4 second descent from 1.7 to 1.4 and then an immediate bump back up to 1.6/1.7 Sounds like the ecu is trying super hard to achieve a stable idle. If it dies again im gonna try to adjust tps since its been at operating temp for a few min now. Any pointers or things to check? There is a high pitch sound while the engine runs that I imagine would be a vacuum leak. I don’t think it was there before and it would make sense that I may have reinstalled my uim and everything between it and the afm improperly, leaving said leak. This high pitched squeal is constant with the engine running and changes in tone as rpms change. I’ve checked and double checked all vacuum hoses and lines and can’t feel any air being sucked with my fingers. Next step might be taking it to a shop that has a smoke detector. Any hints or suggestions on what else to check? I’ve tested for sparked and triple checked timing and I know have a stable 38psi. Could be dirty injectors. I have new ones ready to install but I wanted to isolate as many issues as possible first. |
Update: So I went to adjust tps and there are 2-3 spots in throttle that it completely cuts out. Lots of hesitation while driving. Still bumpy idle, could just be that? |
Check for vacuum leaks. Check and make sure you arent running on 1 rotor.
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Went to move car today to another parking spot to avoid a ticket. Turned on immediately at first but jumped to 4k+ during warmup. Kinda scared me and it kept going up so i turned it off. I tried adjusting idle lower so it wouldnt go so high. Wouldnt turn back on so tried deflooding. Still just nothing. Tried removing lead sparks. They were mostly black. Scrubbed them cranked engine w em out to deflood. Didnt see any smoke come out. Put sparks back in and its still just not starting again. I don’t think its just flooded because I tried deflooding a couple times to no avail. Should I try deflooding more? I hate cranking on the starter so much. |
still turns on actually, I definitely fixed the injector wiring.
However now it wont go down from 4k idle even once its gotten warm. im checking visually for vac leaks but idk if i wanna do starter fluid trick if engine is at 4k Are the double throttle plates supposed to be closed with engine off and cold? im trying to diagnose them as they possibly might not be closing after warmup. |
Okay with aws unplugged, bac unplugged, idle adjust all the way down and throttle stop nearly completely closed, idle sits at 2.1k throttle cable has slack, definitely not the issue Starter fluid spraying found no leaks. considering going to a shop to get it smoked. Could it be my thermowax not letting it go down? |
You're on the right track. The only thing to do is try each component one by one until it fixes it. I would be 100% sure I didn't have a vacuum leak before I started looking at components. If you can hook a gauge up, you should be pulling 18-19 inhg at 750-1000 rpm. I know that doesn't help you because your car idles higher than that.
I had a 86 na that had a terrible vacuum leak between the LIM and the block. That's like the worst case scenario of vacuum leaks. |
I agree with FuhrerTuner. Those bullet connectors are crap. This is an exrtremely bad place to have so many connectors. They are very vulnerable to the elements. All it takes is one wire to ruin your life haha. I'd stop everything you're doing and fix ALL of those wires.
EDIT: It would be a shame if your ECU were to get compromised for some reason or other(example: two wire cross while hitting bumps on the road). You wouldn't believe how much those wires are shaking when you're driving. I would even stagger many of the solders so there is less chance of ever crossing wires. |
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