HELP!! getting rid of everything!!!
 

I have a 88 Turbo II that I am making into a street race car. I am stripping ALL unneccesary junk. I have stripped A/C, Power steering, Cruise control, MOP, Oil Injectors, and complete vacuum spider. My car did not have an air pump. I am looking for info on what else I can get rid of. Can I get rid of any of the solinoids, air bypass or BAC?? and block them off with plates.

I need info on what vacuum hoses I have to run, and to where. Can anyone help me with this info??? any would be appreciated!! Thanks!!

P.S~ My car has 1000 miles on reman motor and brand new t3/t4 hybrid turbo. But SMOKES LIKE HELL!!! Car ran great before I stripped it down. plenty of boost and NO turbo noise. JUST ALOT OF SMOKE!! I believe it may be the MOP pouring oil into the comb. chambers. Not sure though. But it is definately oil smoke. The smoking problem is the reason I am taking out the oil injectors and going to premix. I figured while I was there I might as well get rid of EVERYTHING ELSE. I have came to the conclusion that if its not the MOP making it smoke, It must be the oil control ring. Any ideas on smoking problem would be great also!!

here is a pic of the smoking car at idle

my car does that pretty much once a year when i flood it pretty good.

this car does it all the time, from idle to 6500 rpm. any ideas??

That looks like when my buddy's collant seals went....

looks like that one vid someone posted of when they hooked a coolant line up to where a vacuum line went

I hope you're premixing...

OMG! and you drive down the road like that?

Its definately not coolant smoke. its a heavy oil smoke. As a matter of fact, when that pic was taken, there was no coolant in the motor. I only let it run for about 30-45 seconds. I am not an amatuer machanic. Just new to rotary engines.

And yes I am planning to run premix. When that pic was pic was taken, I still had the MOP hooked up. Is it possible that the MOP was malfuctioning and pouring oil in the cylinders? I know that there was at least one broken oil line from MOP to oil injectors. and two where missing vacuum lines. Could this have been my problem?

I have stripped everything, now I am running and replacing the vacuums needed so I can reinstall intake and start her up. If this does not work, I believe it may be the oil control ring internal. Bump for ideas!! :bigthumb:

Shit how many quarts do you get to the mile?

Just one thing I noticed here. Rotaries don't use cylinders, they have rotors :)

You sure it's not the turbo that's burning oil?

UPDATE~ I got here back together tonight. at least enough to start. The car starts and runs good. not smoking as bad, but still puffing smoke pretty bad. Of course, I have not driven, but ITS STILL SMOKING!! I turned the car over spilling a bunch of oil in the manifold while turbo was off. I am hoping that it will slow down even more after oil burns out. I only ran it about a minute or so.


dDUb~ NO~!! I am NOT sure that its not the turbo burning oil. Is there any way to check the turbo??????? Its only about a month old, But that doesnt mean the dumbass who had the car before me and put it on, did not burn the new turbo up. the coolant line coming from the water neck to the turbo was crimped shut when I got the car. any help here would be appreciated. If I have to pull this motor. I WILL be dropping in a 350 small block instead of another rotary.

there is no need for foul language. Women and children frequent this board and offensive language is not necassary. (J/K)

Poor car. It better be light or you're going to F@#$ up your weight distribution which is one major thing that makes the rx7 awesome (almost 50/50 weight ratio stock).

If you're that upset at your rotary engine, give it to me and I'll make sure it gets a good home ;)


Oh yah and about the turbo. I don't know how to check it necessarily but I'm willing to bet the turbo could be causing the problem. If it was the engine and it's a reman with only 1000 miles, I'm sure Mazda has some type of warranty right? A common problem I've seen around the forum with BNR hybrid upgrades for their turbos, for example, is that the oil feed line needs a restrictor pill in it (sometimes) because it's dumping too much oil. Not sure about that entirely though because I work with N/A's, not turbos.

see the one thing that I don't understand is that people come on these boards new to rotaries and instead of reading and learning about the rotary engine they just automatically start ripping stuff up and blaming the car for something the owner did because he doesn't understand the car. You are better off getting a piston engine car and selling this before you mess something up. Before you do all sorts of mods and things to it you need to read up on how the rotary engine works, all the little tid bits on what is involved when you remove the vac rack, and last but not least how to take care of one of these incredible engines. I by no means consider myself a pro but when I started working on my car I sat down for about two or so months and just read just about every post on this board. The rotary engine can either be your best friend or your worst nightmare and if you don't understand how it works and what you are doing to it it will be your worst nightmare because you made it that way. Good luck with your car but seriously, learn as much as you can before destroying that car!

Preach it!

Knowledge is power, rotaries are different in some ways from pistons, and almost anything you can think of that you want to do or ask has been posted about and discussed on this forum. The archive, the search function, and the FAQ are all useful tools.

That's my advice :)

Don't expect to understand everything about these cars imediately, every car is different in SOME way whether it be piston or rotary! Pistons can burn oil too very simply, it's probably a very simple mistake somewhere and can be fixed easily, hunting it down is the only hard part.

You mean hunting down the knowledge is the hard part. I've found that once soembody steers me in the right direction I can fix the rotary very easily. Its the mystery or overcomeing the ignorance that is the hard part
(I'm a not using the ignorant in a demeaning way)

I agree, I may not be a rotary guru, but I understand how they work. Its the Its the search for information that is the problem. It seems when I do a search for the info needed, I come up with several threads on the problem I am having. Alot of the threads have great info. BUT!!, it also seems that the info given in these threads are ALWAYS disputed by another reply or two. Therefore, Which one is CORRECT!!?? And which one person should I trust?? I appreciate ALL the help I can get. I am only thinking of going to pistons because, I UNDERSTAND THEM!! Anyway, disputing whether or not I know about these cars is not why I am here. I am posting to gather as much knowledge as I can about my car. So here we go with another question.......

I have put everything back together again. And she is STILL SMOKING!!, but it does not seem to be as bad as before. But when I plug the vacuum lines from the outlets under and on the filler neck. IT SMOKES BADLY!! just like before. Is it possible that this thing is building some sort of backpressure in the crankcase, causing this delima>>?? If so, What should I check??? Also, Could it be the cat that is stopped up causeing back pressure? ANY HELP APPRECIATED GREATLY!!

I will post a pic of my questionable areas after dinner....THANKS!!

I think I've figured out your problem.

Your cylinders are non-existant.

:D

^^^C'mon guys be nice to the Noobs. Its hard getting the lingo down at first. You KNOW what he means.

here is a pic of a possible problem. I am not sure, maybe someone can tell me. there is no wires leading from the air bypass solenoid valve. Could this be causeing my problem>>??? if not what kind of problem would it cause? thanks!!!

Hit "edit" and post the pic

yeah I know, I said "Cylinders"....LOL......Seems to be a bad word on this forum. And yeah, I am new to rotary engines..... I can take the hazing...... But I am not an amatuer machanic. I am not out to butcher my car here. I REALLY do not want to drop a small block in this car because I KNOW that it will kill the handling abilties. And after all, I am out to make a race car for the street here. And what I mean by that is, for years and years, I have seen all my friends build cars that haul ass, but DO NOT handle. I consider myself a DRIVER, I want a car that hauls ass AND will take the turn at the end of the straights. I am not into pointing a car and kicking the accelerator.... Any ideas on my problem appreciated greatly.... Smart ass remarks can also be tolerated to a minimal. Thanks again for all you guys help!!

unhooked the cat......still smoking.......................

here is a pic of the reman tag on the engine....can anyone tell me how to find out if this thing may still be under warranty.....??