Help with engine code please
 

Hey every one, I'm using a friends account for this. I am a noob this is my first rx7. I have a 1990 gtu s5.

Problem. if I put the key in the on position the check engine flashes... alot and there is a clicking noise up front. I trying to find the problem of why I can't give it more than 10% throttle before it spudders and dies.
this light is doing this with out me using the green testers.

Thanks,

Dump the CEL codes to see if there are any. A good place to start your troubleshooting.

Your car is an S5 and it's easy to check the CEL codes.
1) Ground the initial set connector (green, one pin connector next to the battery, drivers side)
2) Turn the key to the on position
3) Watch the CEL light. It will generate a series of flashes (long and short ones) The long ones are tens; the short ones are ones. So, if you see a long one followed by three short ones, the code is 13.
4) If more than one CEL code has been stored, the CEL will pause for a second or two and go on to the next series.
5) The CEL codes and what they mean can be found in the FSM in the Fuel Section. Once you know the codes you can then start working on a fix.

Thanks Chuck, I judt tried it and it still flashes fast and doesnt stop... maybe there is a bad connection with the testing wire? I look at it after work.

The flashes are very irregular and not normal. For some reason it is schizo.

yes that is what I thought too Satch, it does it both with the wire in the green connector and normal with out trying to test it. Verry puzzling.

The signal comes from the ECU so perhaps there is a grounding problem causing the sputtering flashes. If the ECU is grounded poorly then that could also help to explain your driveability issues.

You could also switch out one of the good bulbs in the idiot cluster w/the one in the CEL position and see if the CEL bulb in another position works properly and vice versa.

ok, I cleaned and re grounded the ecu... which is the one on the intake manifold driver side. I also added a ground from there to the chaise. still nothing...

Did you address the bulb? This would have been much easier to deal w/before redoing the engine ground. And when accessing the ground a proper thing to do would have been to take a resistance reading on the ground to see if things were good on that front. You can make a code checker used for the S4 and apply the same procedure for the S5. There's a 3 wire Green check connector near the lead coil which uses two of the wires (Black/White and one of the two Yellow based wires).

http://2ndgenrx7.freeservers.com/error%20codes.html

It is probably in limp mode, most likely OMP/MOP failure since it is an s5. As far as the quickly flashing check engine light I would think that it is a bad ground like Satch said or maybe the OMP fried your ECU. When the OMP fails it will sometimes burn the circuit board. I've had it happen twice. If you can't figure it out through the grounds, etc; maybe pull the ecu out and inspect it for burnt areas?

Just an idea, satch can judge if that is a credible idea. haha.

Possible, but i doubt it. Limp mode doesn't occur right away, you can still drive the car several miles before it goes into limp mode.

This is most likely a power/ground issue.

The BAC valve comes on when you turn the key on without the engine running and that will make noise but will shut off when you jumper the test connector. Have you started hunting for the noise under the hood? It could be a clue to what is going on.

If it burnt up the ECU it will always run broken. I'm not sure if you can actually call it "limp mode" still. Checking the ECU for burnt spots would only take a few minutes too.

Well guy I took off the upper intake and found that 2 of the metering line where missing a good 2 inches, lol. form the look of the iron they have been broken for a while.

True, I got lucky and when my OMP bit the dust it didnt take out my ECU, although I know it is common that a burned OMP will kill the ECU.

Is there any oil pooling up? Have you checked the ECU yet to make sure that it wasn't bad?

I dont understand how this is going to make the check engine light flicker like that?

Make sure the initial set connector is grounded. Run a wire from the connector to a ground point on the body or to the battery negative terminal. Make sure this connection is solid. Its different from the S4's where you have to short the initial set connector.

There wasnt any oil pooled up the lines looked like they were cauterized, this is as far as I have gotten so far. I found a omp and lines for 35$ on ebay it should be in Friday.

Like I said earlier, it could've fried his ecu.

Yeah, I really would check the ECU before you plug in a new OMP because if it fried the ecu it will destroy the new OMP too. I've went through this on two s5's and there are a lot of threads on the forum about this. That's the only reason I figured out what was wrong with mine the first time.

Thanks I will check the ecu. After a little investigation I found that with the egi fuse out there is no clicking but if the fuse is in the ac relay ( driver side) and the relay on the resistor pack clicks.

Your description is a bit vague. Specifically, which relays are you referring to? How many plugs to each and what are the wire colors.

I finally got a little time to mess with the car.
1. I replaced the omp with a known working unit.(and omp lines)
2. looked at the ecu and there is no burn marks. I grounded it to the body.
I checked the fuel pump and its good.
again the chattering still continues from the relay and the resister pack and the injectors.

.

There is no resistor pack on an S5 as they were exclusive to the early S4's thus you must be referring to the fuel pump and resistor relay. This relay only controls voltage to the fuel pump and has no bearing on the clicking of the injectors. When are you hearing the clicking of the injectors. Is it w/key to on and engine off?

The A/C relay on an S5 has 4 wires. Red/Yellow, Black/White, Blue/White and Blue/Black. Are these the wires running to the relay which you say is chattering? It is located just inside the engine compartment to the side of the battery.