Help confirm my clutch diagnosis
 

1987 Rx-7 N/A 5Spd


Clutch Problem

The clutch will occasionally not pop back up.
I.E. it stays on the floor.

This happens infrequently when upshifting.

Happens quite often when starting from neutral and moving into first or reverse.

I have bled the clutch, which did not change the problem.

It is not leaking.

I assume that there is an internal leak in either the master or release cylinder.

Does this sound right?

If so, I'll be replacing them both along with the 'transfer' hose.

Any recommendations on part brands?

Also, when unbolting the master cylinder, is a deep socket needed?

Every single time this happen to me it was the clutch master cylinder. (3 times so far) If you remove the master you will see the rear seal leaking more than likely, dont get me wrong it could be the slave but wasnt for me. I keep getting cheap used clutch masters but really i should have bought a new one in the first place. Have yet to have my slave go bad and i keep a spare on stand by. (its been my daily for a long time now)

Also just in case you may not know. FC clutch master cylinders are universal between N/A & TII. The clutch slaves arent.

The thing with Hydraulic clutch parts is that If you replace one thing,another is soon to fail shortly after.
And being that the car is as old as it is,it is wise to replace all components.
The master,the Slave and the Rubber flex line( you can go to braided steel for about 30 bucks) can all be replaced for about 120 bucks.That is parts cost.
The master is a bit of a pain,but the slave is easy.Bench bleed the parts and it saves you the hassle of getting air to come out when you have it installed...that can be fun too,But,if you encounter that,there is Help here..(been there, done that,got the Tshirt and sandals too!!!..lol!)

Update
 

Well, I replaced the master cylinder and it solved the problem. :)

I called all the big stores and I could only find one master cylinder. The rest of the parts would have to have been shipped in.

It seems identical to the old one, except for the markings DA6 on the lower stud base.

The job went pretty straight forward.
After the new one was installed, but before I connected the hardline, I 'bench bled' it until fluid starting to come out.

I was surprised by the difference in color/opacity of the old and new fluid.
The old fluid was not transparent and was amber in color.

Also, on the old master cylinder, the piston seemed 'gunked' up.
It was much easier to press the piston in, using my finger, on the new one than old.

I had a master clutch cylinder on my Vert that the inside was like Crude oil laying on the bottom.
I pressed it and it went "What???"..lol.
That car was treated so bad,that when the clutch started going the previous owner kept driving it and eventually Bent the Pedal assembly on the inside of the car trying to get it in gear.
The stupid thing was,it wasn't the clutch..it was the throw out bearing that wore the face right off it.