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is it running rich? No power could also be from bogging.
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im gonna check for a clogged cat. is there an easy or a best way to check for a clogged cat? i have no idea if it is running rich, sorry i dont know how to check for that. but i guess it probably is b/c i did just installed the walbro pump, but the car was giving me the same problem before the walbro pump.
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disconnect the cat from the precats and let it hang. Gonna require a torch or lots of WD40. When you fire it up it'll be LOUD. :D
EDIT: Also when you have the cat hanging there you can shine a flashlight down in it and see if there are any blockages. |
i guess i have a lot of work ahead of me. could it be anything else for the loss of my power?
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Disconnecting the cat will take 5 mins. If you have air tools use 'em. Racheting breaker bar works nicely, too (I'm in love with mine.) :)
If there's no headache-free way to disconnect it, fire up the car and let it run for a few minutes. Stick your head under the side and look at the cat. Is it glowing red hot? If so, it's clogged. This test is best done at night for obvious reasons. :) |
i dont know if this will help you guys out but in order for my car to turn on, i have to excessively crank the engine a couple of time before the car actually starts up.
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well tomorrow im gonna start some of this work if the weather allows it. ill keep you guys updated to see what happens, so stop by and check out this thread periodically to help me. thank you very much.
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A clogged cat smells like rotten eggs usually. Seriously, it sounds like you have a huge vacuum leak or some shit.
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Originally posted by dr0x A clogged cat smells like rotten eggs usually. Seriously, it sounds like you have a huge vacuum leak or some shit. I'd agree, except that he said that his idle is fine. I'm gonna wait 'til he posts after checking the cat... :) |
i took everything on top of the engine off, including the fuel rail. i was looking at the engine when i realized that a clear, red line was broken.....i think it is the oil metering pump line that goes into the engine. could this have been my problem why the car has no power? what kind of line could i use to fix it? i also saw that the tip of the primary injectors were also cracked a bit, could this have been a problem?
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Does this clear red line go from underneath the injectors to down at the bottom-front-right corner of the engine (along with several other identical lines. If so, then it is an OMP line like you suspect. The engine will run without this line - the bad news is a rotor's apex seals won't have been getting as much oil as they were supposed to and so may be damaged or deteriorating...
Originally posted by Snrub in https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=153523 Check out these photos of my toasted housing and rotor. That's 3 months of using the engine as my daily driver. Note the coolant passage in the first two pictures. I don't think it's suppose to be like that. :) http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/jeffguilf...Engine&.view=t Background: Engine went on the way home after a day of beating it at the Mosport DDT. I drove it around much of the day at 7-8k because I wanted to concentrate on the corners and not worry about downshifting. One straight was faster if you didn't shift and just reved it to 8k. Chris @ CP racing informed me upon removing the engine that one oil injector vacume line wasn't connected, another cracked. Two years ago the previous owner had some dumbass install a J-Spec. There's no way the guy could have hooked up a n/a piston engine, judging by the mistakes he made. Last year the previous owner had most of the problems fixed (unconnected vacume hoses, etc.), but apparently not all of them. Between the initial J-Spec install and me buying the car it had about 1000kms put on it. I put about 10,000kms on it before it went. The coolant passage problem probably didn't help either. It was the front rotor that went. The compression as of last year was quiet good in the front rotor. The pics aren't amazing, but I think they give you an idea of what it looks like. Do you mean that the tip of the primary injector rail was cracked? |
that is exactly the line i am talking about, well ive only driven the car for about 500-1000 miles on this motor but the compression test did show up good. there is a round thing on the tip of the injector that goes into the engine, that piece seemed to be cracked.
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I don't know anything about injectors, but I'd say replace it right away. If it's busted it probably isn't doing its job properly, right?
Until you get that line replaced, I'd suggest throwing premix in with your gas to keep yourself covered. https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...ghlight=premix |
i am replacing all the vacuum hoses while the fuel rail is out and changing the injectors.
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The piece you are talking about is notorious for cracking. It really doesnt affect the nozzle spray. D you know how to do the test on your injectors. Use a pail of water and an old fuel pump fill the pail with water and use or find an old injector harness if you have one laying around. (do not use the one in your car). Use a car battery for the power and test each injector on this system. if you need more help pm me...it easier to explain by phone than by computer.
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i put everything back together but now my car seems like the battery is dead, but the thing is i charged my battery. im think i put the ground that goes under the fuel rail on the wrong ground, do you think that could make my car seem like the battery is dead? i think the ground should go on the engine block, but i put it on top of the metal piece on the fuel rail that bolts onto the engine. other than that i put in new vacuum lines and a different set of injectors. im hoping to have this car running by the end of this weekend, but i need help. thank you guys
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i got the car the running, it was the main fuse, but now tha car idles at 1.5k and it has an irratic idle(bounces up and down) the whole time that the car is running. i already played with the idle screw and its all the way down. my egr is bad, could that cause the problem?
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