Heater issues, eh no heat heh.....
 

Well I am rather pissed at my GTU for having a shitty heater, but I know that it shouldn't be like that as my other 7's will burn the paint off a barn at max heat.


My temperature select motor is working and the rec/fresh motor is working. My position motor isn't working but I have it set to defrost(atleast to get my windows unfogged...) when I turn it on i have the temp to MAX and have verified the arm positions to be at "MAX"


The only thing I can think of being the problem(s) is the heater core being bad/clogged or the water valve being shot/broken.


I've come aware that the S5/S4 water valves are different so I don't have any spares that I want to take out(only other S5 is my TII that isn't a parts car...)


Is there a way to test the water valve inside the car? I know pulling the dash isn't too big of a deal(if you've turned a few wrenches....) but I don't have that much time to spare right now that i'm double shifting at work.

could need to flush your heater core....

how did you verify that your hot/cold air selctor was operating...did you reach under the dash on the drivers side and find the arm? is the arm pushed forward or backward?

I stuck my head down there and moved the selector. It moves like the FSM says it should. At max heat its at the right angle for max heat. Thats how I know.....

What happened to the avatar? Anyway, if the air blows and its not hot, then you prob have a clogged heater core.

When i was baned they removed it and now I can't get it to fit their rediculous 6 kb size requirement. I like the Aztec Warior though hopefully sometime in the future I will get VIDA back up. :(


I'm assuming I have to take the core to a radiator shop to be pro-flushed right? How much are new ones from the dealer? I saw VB had them for 150+s/h so I figure they aren't that bad....

To get the heater core out the dash must come with it, NOT FUN!!!!! BUt to unclog it, or atleast clean it, there is this Prestone stuff called rad flush, what you do it drain the coolant, add the RAD FLUSH, and fill the rad with water, run the car with the heat on full, for 5 mins, let it cool down, drain it add more coolant and water and you should be good to go!

I believe I mentioned that in my first post.
Honestly it doesn't seem that bad of a task if you know what you're doing.




Yea I was thinking of that, but I don't want to toss cash down the drain(literally), which is why I asked if the water valve can be tested inside the car.

i just disconnect the lines with the core in the car and blow compressed air through both ways, seems to work for me...

'just don't get too nuts with the air psi from the compressor.

wow, i logged on here to ask the same freakin question!! SCORE!!

Make sure that the arm on the air mix motor is actually connected to the "door" that allows coolant into the heater core. The connector came off on my 7 and I almost pulled the dash to change the heater core. It isn't obvious the connector has come loose, you really under the dash to watch the connector move. It’s worth a shot.

I know of a thread In which someone posted (I think It was Icemark or Hailers) that a silver little contact relay was replaced. I tried doing a search but I couldn't come up with It. It was an Informative thread with a few pics.