|
Headlights/Cluster Lights Issue
Headlights don’t turn on and cluster lights don’t either. I can turn my low beam and highbeam on nothing happens except my tail lights turn on I can do my turn signals and hazards fine also hear the beeping that the lights are on when the keys aren’t in when I turn on the lights. Changed relays for dimmer and headlight nothing happened look at headlight switch wiring harness nothing is burned and switch seems to be fine
|
possible bad solder joints inside the switch assembly.
|
Last year I started working on getting all of my stuff working again, and had this same issue. I opened up all of those controls and reflowed all the solder joints, both heat and dabbed a bit of new solder on each one. Lights, turn signal, windshield wipers, and cruse control boxes all redone. I also took the computer that sits left of the drivers feet, and took that out, and those three control boards as well, as that is what controls the turn signal relays, etc. I removed the one resistor to get rid of the hyper flash "dead bulb" function, as my entire car has been converted to LED bulbs and then all the stuff that controls the horn. Went from a weak wheeze to a very solid horn after doing that too. Just go slow with taking them apart, as there is lots of little screws and plastic tabs that are old and brittle.
If you do decide to convert to LEDs, I do recommend using real amber and red LED bulbs in those spots, as using white, it makes the red look pink because of how bright they are, and the amber looks washed out. If you put LEDs in the dash cluster, be aware that LED bulbs are +/- directional, so you might need to test and make sure they turn on properly. I did put a regular bulb in the highbeam slot though, as using an LED in there made it really bright, and it does not dim with the other bulbs, so having a super bright blue thing in your face in the middle of the night was not good. |
Originally Posted by Malic
(Post 12501281)
Last year I started working on getting all of my stuff working again, and had this same issue. I opened up all of those controls and reflowed all the solder joints, both heat and dabbed a bit of new solder on each one. Lights, turn signal, windshield wipers, and cruse control boxes all redone. I also took the computer that sits left of the drivers feet, and took that out, and those three control boards as well, as that is what controls the turn signal relays, etc. I removed the one resistor to get rid of the hyper flash "dead bulb" function, as my entire car has been converted to LED bulbs and then all the stuff that controls the horn. Went from a weak wheeze to a very solid horn after doing that too. Just go slow with taking them apart, as there is lots of little screws and plastic tabs that are old and brittle.
If you do decide to convert to LEDs, I do recommend using real amber and red LED bulbs in those spots, as using white, it makes the red look pink because of how bright they are, and the amber looks washed out. If you put LEDs in the dash cluster, be aware that LED bulbs are +/- directional, so you might need to test and make sure they turn on properly. I did put a regular bulb in the highbeam slot though, as using an LED in there made it really bright, and it does not dim with the other bulbs, so having a super bright blue thing in your face in the middle of the night was not good. |
Originally Posted by Spider2k
(Post 12501282)
That's funny as hell because I made the same mistake when I redid my wife's cr-v. Went all led and she let me know one day that the high beam indicator was retina searing.
|
Nothing
Originally Posted by Spider2k
(Post 12501191)
possible bad solder joints inside the switch assembly.
|
Yep, the relays that are switching on and off is still the CPU unit near your left leg. I took those out and reflowed all the solder joints
|
Originally Posted by Malic
(Post 12501990)
Yep, the relays that are switching on and off is still the CPU unit near your left leg. I took those out and reflowed all the solder joints
|
Right, is a black plastic case, with three things that plug into it. There are three boards in there, one controls the flashers (I removed the resistor that causes the hyperflash because I converted everything to LED, I might go back in there later and add a pot so I can adjust the speed that they flash) and the high/low beam lights. When the lights are off, using the highbeam just flashes the flash to pass lights though the front lenses, while when they are up, toggle between high and low. Several of those solder joints had cracked, so I just went in and reflowed all of those, and fixed all of those weird issues.
Just because the age of these plastic parts, just use a small flat screwdriver to pry them apart after you take any screws out, cause the brittleness of the plastic. |
Originally Posted by Malic
(Post 12502000)
Right, is a black plastic case, with three things that plug into it. There are three boards in there, one controls the flashers (I removed the resistor that causes the hyperflash because I converted everything to LED, I might go back in there later and add a pot so I can adjust the speed that they flash) and the high/low beam lights. When the lights are off, using the highbeam just flashes the flash to pass lights though the front lenses, while when they are up, toggle between high and low. Several of those solder joints had cracked, so I just went in and reflowed all of those, and fixed all of those weird issues.
Just because the age of these plastic parts, just use a small flat screwdriver to pry them apart after you take any screws out, cause the brittleness of the plastic. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...a256843d2.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...a472fd684.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d673116cd.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...0757d01e8.jpeg |
Re flow EVERY solder joint on the back. Can't hurt to clean the contacts on the relays. Slip a piece of 1500-2000 grit paper in between them til they are shiny.
|
That is the one, I had two of those CPU boxes, and one of them also was missing the same one, so might have been an option, like cruse control or such. But yeah, just reflow all those joints.
On the 2nd image, the one marked R1 is the resistor that causes hyperflash if you switch to LED bulbs, you can flat out remove. I am thinking of re-adding a pot to it to tune its flash speed in the future, and mod the case so I have an external knob or something. Note that this video is for the FD, but the board is identical, I think Mazda decided to not change something if it worked just fine. |
[QUOTE=Malic;12502126]That is the one, I had two of those CPU boxes, and one of them also was missing the same one, so might have been an option, like cruse control or such. But yeah, just reflow all those joints.
On the 2nd image, the one marked R1 is the resistor that causes hyperflash if you switch to LED bulbs, you can flat out remove. I am thinking of re-adding a pot to it to tune its flash speed in the future, and mod the case so I have an external knob or something. So I got all the lights to turn on and now if i put the car on low-beam it just stays stuck on high-beam could that be the relay its the blue 5pin doesn’t click anytime i switch on the headlights i know that’s the dimmer relay so i’m guessing that’s broken or my turn signal/high-beam switch is broken. |
due to the age of all the parts, I have a feeling that the solder joints in the turn signal switch are also bad and need to be reflowed as well. I took out all four control boxes (lights, turnsignal, cruse control, windshield wipers) and all of them had cracked solder.
Just have to take them apart, so go slow and take pictures so you can put them back together |
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:04 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands