Hatch wont open and drivers door wont unlock
 

I had a mechanic take a look at my car once when it wouldn't start. He tried testing the fuel pump is all I remember him doing back there(fuel pump was working btw). Anyways I noticed after he got done working my hatch wouldn't open unless I used the key. I tried messing around with it to see if I can get it to work but I pretty much got lost(everything looks fine??). I noticed my gas lid refuses to open as well. I had to remove the carpet and panels to release the lever and open the lid.

Also my drivers side door lock wont turn/unlock with my key in. It's been like this ever since I got the car. I have to get in through pass side,unlock drivers side to get in. Any one else have experience with this issue?

yeah during my 6 month+ swap. My driver side key hole got fucked. So I too have to go through the passenger side door..:wallbash:

hmmm...
 

i have experienced the door lock issue a few times...

mazda designed those locks with a weather guard...

as the locks get worn out, the protective weather guard can become lodged in the cylinder...

if this is the case, take the lock cylinder to a lock shop and they can remove the obstruction.

as far as the hatch and fuel release, check the cables to make sure they are not broken.

i have replacement cables for the hatch and gas door locks if you need them. they are in great shape.

yea, both my NA and turbo i use the key to open with... i know its the cables but ehh... its nothing big

i had a problem with how the cables mount up to the levers for the gas tank/trunk (i have a s5 vert)
i actually had to weld on a small piece of metal to keep the cable from coming out of its mount.

also with the drivers side door handle, are you sure the key fits the chamber?

I had the hatch issue.
My cables had simply come out of adjustment.
Here is what I did:
open the hatch, peel back the carpeting to expose the spare tire area, go as far as you feel comfortable with.
Take out the spare and associated hardware.
Now remove the plastic covers over the latches. (phillips screws)
You should see where the cable goes to the latch at, it should go into a white plastic tube, the tube comes apart lenght-wise. You may need to remove the actual latching mechanism to gain access to the tube (sorry, it was a while ago)
The cable slides into grooves in the tube, so you should be able to take the cable out, move it a few grooves "tighter" (take up any slack) then snap the plastic tube back together, repeat if neccessary on the other side then test from the release on the drivers floor to ensure that both latches release at the same time.

Thanks for the advice, I'll give that a try as soon as it stops raining.

just make sure you dont pull too much slack out, or it may not stay shut properly.

make sure you also take care to note how the latch is mounted. mine had some play for adjustment in it, and it took me about 5 minutes to figure out why the damn thing wouldnt shut easily.

do you still have the cable for the hatch and gas door?
 

do you still have the cables for the hatch and fuel door? please pm me if you do thanks