Has anyone done a "window" conversion
 

I have a 90 GTU without power windows and power doors. I'm wondering if I can convert it so that it does have power windows and power doors. And what would I need to do it?

Yes, its called the "Buy a GXL Mod!" :)

You would need the switches, door panels, motors for the windows and probably more.

you also need the harnesses

the only hard part is removing the old harnesses and replacing them with the power window ones.

I am in the process of converting my S5 (1989) GTU to pwr windows. I have learned that the S4 door harness is slightly different than the S5 door harness (in that the connectors @ the kick panel are not identical). I found this out when I went to my local pick-n-pull and bought the pwr window regulators (assuming that the door harnesses were prewired and connectorized for power, just not used). I then returned to retrieve the door harnesses, switches, and door handles. WELL! Let me tell YOU that the S4 and S5 door handles are not the same (S4 w/power is longer) and PnP refers to them as ARM RESTS, not door handles, and so charges more for ARM RESTS than it does for door handles. But anyone that has driven an FC knows that the ARM REST resides too friggin low on the door to even be utilized as an ARM REST. Also, if you have a manual tranny.......need I say more? Ok, I digress. Anyhow, you will have to modify your S5 door panel to accept the S4 ARM REST that was made for the switches. Otherwise, get the S4 door panel w/ all the goodies already on it. You could easily prevent yourself from the trouble I am going through by getting S5 door equipment. Unfortunately none of the PnP's in my area have any S5 FC's. Only S4's. Add to this equation that the PnP scavengers usually prowl the yards and promptly remove the switches before good natured individuals like us get the chance to fish around for them. Hence, I have only acquired the passenger door (S4) pwr window switch. Be wary of the door harness that has the switch connector removed (CUT). Some idiots think it is something that potential "bidders" prefer to look for on the switch. What they do not realize is that it renders the harness totally useless, unless you are an electrician (like I am) and can read schematics to figure out which wires go to which connector location. But wait, there's more! To more easily get the door harness in, you should pull out the pin that holds the door from opening "completely", so you CAN open the door "completely". I have kinda large hands, so I needed more space. I also made sure that I removed the S4 door harnesses with all the clips in place so as to utilize them upon reinstallation in my car. I totally recommend that you "dry run" your setup from the harness connectors under the dash @ the kick panel. Easily unplug your existing door harness (2 connectors) and plug in the "new" harness. Then plug in your pwr window regulator, and also the switch. Be sure to mark with tape which connector is what when you remove it from the donor car. Then test the configuration to see if it works. If it does not, then you must further trace back the main harness to see if you have fuses in the right locations, and even if the location "Accepts" fuses. Sometimes you will only have one contact point in the fuse location. If that is the case, then you are going to be exactly where I am. Drinking more beer, cursing profusely, and requiring an armed escort when you go to the PnP for more electrical parts from an S4 door (that has also been cut from more scavengers). When I actually get my windows working from the switch and harness (I can make the window go up and down from a 12V power supply I have), I will do a complete write-up. Until then, I need another beer.

anyone know where I can find the Driver door pwr window switch for UNDER $100? $It's $191 @ the dealer. Ebay bidding is nutz on these.

you guys are nuts, the power windows are a headache. i would rather have the less prone to failure manual windows...

+1 with karack ...manual windows own nothing better than being able to roll down your window when the car is off .. and then not having to fux the garaunteed to fail switches and motors and everythingelse involved ..

I enjoyed the manuals on my 87 base. Very easy to roll up and trouble free.
That is not the case w/ my t2, it is prone to the switch going out for very short periods of time and need played with to work again. Hasn't broke fully yet. Sunroof used to work 100% perfect, and now.....broke. bleh
I want no sunroof!

+1
just like the power seat belts :(

I converted my car to power windows. I did it a little differently then most though. I used the power window regulators from the GXL/TII/whatever but ran my own wires and mounted the switches in the "dead space" underneath the stereo. My thinking was that at the track, locating the switches in front of the shifter makes them much more easy to reach. This is especially nice in the shutdown area at the drag strip since the rules say windows must be closed for the run but the track is HOT so I like to open them as early as possible after I cross the finish. That location is also nice because it means that you're not going to hit the switch with your elbow, and it's a little more "old school" (think GSL-SE).

As nice as it may be to roll down my window AND the passenger window at the same time without some crazy manuvering, mine has the intermitent issue that one of them will decide not to roll down until i've tried the button numerous times. Atleast they'll both roll up without issue guaranteed.

I might be doing this with another car I'm getting except backwords....crank windows are the best. I love them in my 89 GTU

I don't care for power windows myself. I'd stick with manual ones. IMO theres less crap to go wrong. If you can get a couple GXL doors from a bone yard I'd start there, then take the power stuff off them

Pwr winndows may be a headache to some. Converting to pwr is turning out to be a headache for me. But I still prefer the convenience. I have a GTU, so if I aint gonna have A/C, I want at least ONE creature comfort.