Haltech Questions, please help
 

ok, this is what is listed on rx7.com's website. of all of this, what do i need to buy?

Haltech E6K Fuel/Ignition Flying Lead Kit $1145
FL030050 Haltech E6S Fuel/Ignition Flying Lead Kit $995
FL030051 Haltech E6S-8 Fuel/Ignition Flying Lead Kit $1035
FL030052 Fully terminated harness (add to above price) $150
FL030053 E6S/K Connector Kit $77
FL032560 E6S/K MAP Sensor (1 Bar for Normally Aspirated) $64
FL032586 E6S/K MAP Sensor (2 Bar for up to 15psi Boost) $96
FL032549 E6S/K MAP Sensor (3 Bar for up to 30psi Boost) $112
FL032526 Haltech 4 wire oxygen (O2) sensor $64
FL031606 E6S/K trim knob for ignition/fuel/boost $56
FL049700 Haltech Boost Control Module $80

I know i need E6S flyingleading kit, and terminatied harness and map sensor. but what about the connector kit, and the bost contorl module and the trim knob?

are these good prices? or should i go else where. please help b/c i am going to buy one this week.

thanks!

Haltech E6K, Flying lead loom, Connector kit, 2 or 3 BAR MAP sensor - depending on how much boost you plan on running.

Boost control solenoid if you wanna use it for boost control, if you want to adjust the boost from the dash, just go to radioshack (i think, i'm not a yank) and get a 10K Ohm Potentiometer, thats all the trim knob is, it'll cost ya like $3

I think it's cheaper from the hit man. shipped from Australia but it's way cheaper due to the exchange rate.

he also knows his stuff!

http://www.hitman.hm/

Just an FYI.

I just bought one Monday. You need a 3 bar sensor if you are running a turbo. You also don't want a terminated harness, as I have heard in my research that the Haltech terminated ones aren't that good. You also need the connector kit.

I got the E6K, flying loom, 3bar map sensor, connector kit, and shipped to my door via courier for free for the price of $1290. There is no tax and no delivery fees from Hitman (Matt) It takes about 7 days to receive after you order it.

Hitman will probably offer the best support there is.

Terminated harness option is for those who have very little or no electrical wiring experience; it ends up being a route wiring and plug into sensors install, which most people will have very little trouble doing.&nbsp The flying lead kit is for those with some electrical wiring experience so that they can cut the wires to length for a tidier install.



-Ted

hey dave, i sent you an email with some questions about the motor, if you could answer those i would apprecitat it

rated this a 5 for archiving. Good info everyone.

so the flying lead. is it a bitch to put on all the connectors? you have to solder em on or?

i want a clean install basically:D

They are almost all GM type connectors, so unless you have the proper crimping pliers, it's not pretty.&nbsp I currently use a generic crimper and solder on top of that, so my connections are sturdy.&nbsp I'm trying to track down the proper crimper, but it looks like big bucks (~$100) if I found the right one; welp, I guess I gotta pay for it and find out myself! :)



-Ted

Get the terminated harness and be happy!!..Flying lead you have to hire someone if you are not good with electrical to finish up job. Terminated, you can just hook it up...It will save you some time.

cool ;) ......i could probably install the flying lead. but im really impatient:D

Good info Ted. Have you heard the same as far as their connectors go? I believe I heard that off the Haltech list, but I can't recall to be honest.

I ordered flying loom so I can terminate it myself.

Not that much time. You still have to install the sensors and stuff. Plus you have to remove all the old crap. That is taking me DAYS and I don't even have the Haltech here yet!! :D

most of the guys who have got a terminated harness, a year down the track have had their plugs crumble and wires break from brittleness. Styk33 and co who have been running E6K's for 12-18 months are the guys to talk to about this

Hmmm...not exactly sure what you're asking, but they are all standard GM connectors.&nbsp Those with more experience with GM wiring will have better info. :)



-Ted

There is not really not that much stuff (sensors..etc) The only thing that you have to do though is re-tap the water temp sensor. The threads are somewhat different. When i bought my Haltech it was terminated.

ohhh and when you said that you need 3BAR map sensor with turbocharged, well my friend with HALTECH said that its NOT TRUE.
1BAR map is for N/As and 2-3 bar maps for turbocharged...2 for lower boost and 3 for higher boost..15 above i think..

I've heard in NUMEROUS places that the 3bar map sensore that Haltech sells can actually be had for MUCH less cash. I was told that it is the OEM map sensor for a 1989 Turbo Trans Am. I've heard this a lot, but have never verified. Can anyone provide input on this possible Tall Tale?

btw, the trans am map sensor is only like $60 at carparts.com (i checked last summer, might be different now).

kdr2 sells a haltech wiring harness for the FC3S.. Anyone try it?

-Zach

This is true.&nbsp Remember, we live in a 1-bar atmosphere (well, at sea level) environment, so the 1-bar MAP sensor is for NA with no + boost.&nbsp 2-bar will actually go up to 1-bar of + pressure or about 15psi of boost.&nbsp 3-bar will go up to 2-bar of + pressure or about 30psi of boost.


-Ted

No tall tale - it's true.&nbsp The 3-bar MAP sensor offered by Haltech is the same MAP sensor as the stock 1989 Pontiac Trans Am Turbo 25th Anniversary Edition.&nbsp The 2-bar MAP sensor is off of a 1985-1987 Buick Grand National.&nbsp Air temp and water temp sensors are both typical GM sensors - which can be found as cheap as $30/each.&nbsp So those of you looking to save some dollars, buy the GM sensors in the U.S.!



-Ted

Very good info thanks guys. Im pretty familiar with gm products. Anything else you can use from them?

THe hitman Knows TONs. and he is a real cool ass dude. Talk to hime before you donything.

MATT the HITMAN knows his shit!..turbo & haltech..you name it!!...but why go to him when TED is here!:) ....

why the hell would a transam use a 3 bar map sensor? it's normally aspriated for christsakes............... you gotta wonder what the hell they were thinking when they put that one in????????

Ted isn't at K2RD anymore and I don't know that he is selling Haltech's at his new business yet. That's why I went with Hitman. Well that and the fact that he has been answering tons of questions for me prior to buying it :D

I am taking all of the stock wiring out of the engine bay that is not needed. That is alot of stuff :D

I don't want to have to buy another map sensor later, so I will spring for the extra $16 since I am spending almost $1300 already =) Why go half ass when I finally went with a real EMS! LOL

That one model of the transam came with a V6 3.8 litre turbo charged engine (same thing found in the grand national). It was a pretty damn fast car... I'm pretty sure they were in the 12s off of the showroom floor, maybe low 13s. Anyways, anyone that knows anything about the grand national will tell you that that engine has a LOT of potential.

just fwiw...

oh ok, all trans ams on the roads over here have n/a shitty 8's in them

That came in the 89 model 20th anniversary TA (limited production). It was rated at 255 hp, though from what I understand, it was comically underrated.

Ren

I'm not really following this. I know I should probably look in the ECU section, though.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but these are the options as I see them:

1. Get a terminated Haltech harness. This apparently has longevity issues. You have to run the new harness into the engine bay, but it hooks up to the stock sensors.

2.a. Get a flying harness. This means you have to run the wires yourself, and have to make new connections for your stock sensors.

2.b. The other option is to use the flying harness and instead use GM sensors.

3. Get a Haltech with the FC3 conversion, which allows you to use the stock sensors (except MAF, which requires MAP instead) and wiring harness?

Is this right?

Also, is there a reason most aftermarket ECU's have MAP instead of MAF? I thought MAF was more accurate, and allowed for small variations in VE.

Sorry if these have been answered before.

Ren

info?

Ren

It's obvious you're not from the states.
1989 Pontiac Trans Am 25th Anniversary edition - uses a punched out Grand National engine to 4.3liters V-6 with a single turbo
duh



-Ted

Ted, I beg to differ. I used to own a TA and was pretty into them at the time. The 20th anniversary Turbo T/A was still a 231cid/3.8L. I think it had the waste gate tuned for higher pressure, though.

Perhaps you're thinking of the Typhoon/Syclone, which used a 4.3L turbo V6.

Ren