Grounding injectors, help with removing stuff.
 

Hey guys, my car went out of commission a couple months ago, and it being winter here, and the fact that im jobless has let it go un-attended for a while. I finally got some cash (my bail money back!!!) haha and Im ready to get her back on the road. What happened was I was starting the car a couple months ago, and shorted some of the ground wires. I would turn the key and nothing would happen. I thought the only wire I burned out was the engine ground, so I replaced that, and now the engine spins when I turn the key, but no spark. This would lead me to belive I also fried the injector ground, so I am going to need to replace that. Can anyone give me a quick walkthru of how to easily remove the UIM and stuff without replacing any gaskets? also is there any quick mods to do for cheap while im in there? Ive got 200 bucks and all i need to do is replace the clutch hydrolic system and fix this electronic stuff. Plz help =)

The factory service manual and Haynes manual has procedures to pull the intake manifold. Expect to replace the gasket.

I also just looked at your signature, and it seems you have the "engine killer" combo of an intake, Racing Beat exhaust and FCD. Try to be very careful on the boost until you get the fuel pump.

Yeah, I have the wastegate wired open, I barely got any positive boost when I broke the engine in. I also babied it alot. Im gonna leave it wired open untill I get some more money. For now I just want to drive it again.

There is no such thing as the "injector ground". It's more likely you've just popped a fuse.
FSM page 4B-61. Definitely replace the UIM-LIM gasket. Not doing so is asking for trouble.
That still isn't safe. Boost creep occurs when the wastegate is fully open and still can't bypass enough exhaust gas to control boost. So in the higher gears the turbo will have plenty of time to spool up to the same level it would with the wastegate functioning normally. With an undersized wastegate, wiring the wastegate open only slows the rate of boost increase, but it doesn't lower it. Be very careful...

What is the other ground that comes from underneath the UIM? near the engine ground? And all the engine fuses look ok. Any ideas?

doesnt he mean the injector ground that is bolted to the engine housing under the intake manifold...i know it exists ive seen it.

That's not an "injector ground" (again, there's no such thing); it's the main ground for the entire EFI system. It comes from the ECU and various sensors. Any situation that could fry this wire would pop a fuse first.

Ok well I really need get this car on the road, please someone help me. I turn the key, the car cranks but doesnt start. All the engine fuses seem to be instact. Please help me troubleshoot this.

Inside the car. The fuse box near your left foot. Counting from the bottom up. Third row up. Pull out the fuses on that row and replace them if you can't tell if they are/are not blown. It's the ENGINE fuse that your most interested in. I think its the second or thrid one from your left on that third row from the bottom.

Then go to the engine bay. Check the most inboard of the fuses. The last two in particular.

Usually it's the ENGINE fuse that goes when the battery is momentarily connected up ass backwards.

If your main engine ground had burnt insulation, it means to me that the battery was connected up arse backwards for more than a few seconds. NOT a good sign.

IF the fuses are really, really good.......then I have no further suggestions unless you have a digital meter and real basic meter skills (like me, basic).

Ok I checked all of the fuses, none of them seem to be bad. I mean im no expert, but the metal band should be visibly melted right? I mean none of them in my car have any visible breaks in the connection. Also, if it helps at all, the car cranks like a mother fucker, and sounds fine, it is a consistant Wah-Wah, Wah-Wah, Wah-Wah.... Also the boost gauge bounces consistantly with the wah-wahs. I cant even get a stumble out of the thing though. I have tried flipping the fuel cut switch off and on while cranking, at many different intervals. When I check the exaust it smells faintly of gas, but that is all. No liquid and no overwhelming gas reek....
Is there a way for me to check if the spark plugs are even firing? Or any other checks I can do? Any leads are much appreciated.