Great stuff: check out this site
 

http://www.negative-camber.org/crispyrx7/fc/fcpart1.htm

this guy is definitely a little unique.

don't know if this has been posted before or not.

oh, and guess what? HE SHOWS A DAMN FC WITH DAMN FD WHEELS!:)

sweet

Cool story!
 

This is one of the best step-by-step transformations that I have seen yet!

The guy makes no bones that his car was a little rough, who else would call his ride "Rusty!"

Great find!, is he a member?

I was stuck on that site for an hour goood stuff

just wanted to say that all the NC guys i have met are a bunch of biyotches. not to take away from dude's car though.

nice write-up

wow, i'm impressed

Great stuff I read all of it =)

good writeup... i'm looking foreward to seeing the final stages.

all i can say is damn... and bookmark ;)

posting so i can find this later

cool

very good reading

A few points:

- he said his lateral links (toe link) was loose, but he didn't replace it. Why ??
- he's leaving the stock subframe & sublink end links on there, not going with adjustable / solid ones ?
- were adjustable camber plates really necessary or could he have gotten away with adjustable end links, tie rods, and solid adjustable swaybar end links?

Also notice the series IV swaybar end links are fully metal and hollow (bushings go in there). VS the series V plastic non-replaceable pillow ball "dog bone" style end links.

http://www.negative-camber.org/crispyrx7/fc/norear.jpg

For a race car I would have just picked up some cheep lightweight rims for wider / larger tires... not bought those stupid spacers. Now for a show car :D

pretty cool.

Hmm Stainless oil cooler lines. Anyone know a good place to get them? I would prefer a drop in situation without modding the fittings.

I'm guesing Mazdatrix

None the less, very good reading.

Gennimens,
Glad you like my site :D

vaughnc,

The nut was stripped whidh caused it to be loose. And hour to remove the stripped nut, replaced with a good nut and the link is now nice and tight. the ball joint itself was still good.

Budget. Haven't done them yet but I have the parts now waiting install.

I want, need at least 25. degrees - camber. Plates allow easy adjustment and more -camber if I desire.
Swaybars and tierods have no effect on ability to adjust camber BTW.

I need to look at something for the dogbones true. Sway bar end links will be replaced by the adjustables with spherical rod ends....eventually.

As for the rims and tires...like the website said I've had the FD rims sitting in my garage for 4 years now (straight off my FD) might as well use them for something. To me they were free...which is cheaper than buying yet another set of rims.

And BTW I've been an RX-7 owner since 1991, Long time big list member (c.1997) and member of this forum since... well check the date to the left. I've mostly been an FD guy but decided to I wanted to race after instructing and driving at driving schools for about 6 years now. Time to take the next step :)

Regards
Crispy

Digi7ech
SS oil cooler lines, hat I bought throught Corksport (am I allowed to use that name here? ;) ) require no modfications. Unscrew the old OE lines (fittings) and screw in the new ones.
HTH
Crispy

crispy, i hope you toast the competion

I checked the CS site but it's a bastard to navigate and I couldn't find those lines.

Where were they?

here you go.

http://www.corksport.com/main.php3?p...3Fcat%3D214909

Nice writeups, but was it just me who notices the trim missing on the side but continued around front? lol. Maybe I just didn't get to a part where he puts it back on or something, but just noticed this.


http://www.negative-camber.org/crisp...c/15footer.jpg

You were close...the passengers seat weighs 35lbs.:p:

silverrotor,
hehe thanks. I'm sure I'll weigh them when they get pulled. 35lbs eh? Damn they weigh a ton. The Sparco Evo waiting to be fitted gotta be 1/3 that!

Ocelot,
Nope...not gonna reinstall them :D
Those bits of cosmetic rubber trim weigh 3lbs!
So....GONE!

Crispy