Garrett GT35R Blown @ 700 Miles?
 

So, got the car back from the shop, drove 300 miles back to home - no issue. left it the garage couple of days started this morning.. boom smoke every where. though my the coolant seal is screwed. but no air bubbles or creamyness in the radiator. thought i will take it for a quick drive and clear it, man it stated smoking like nothing. pulled back home but noticed excessive amount of oil mixed with coolant on the exhaust tip - just puddled. :( so I popped the hood and checked. oil/coolant mixed spitted through the bov everywhere. I cant believe this shit happened. I was all excited in getting the car back and now this. anyone else had issues with these turbo? or am I the un lucky one? :icon_tdow

It has 10w30 conventional oil.
oil psi is around 100+ at 3k rpm.

What size restrictor on the turbo? Did it have one already built in? Why is your oil pressure so high?

I did the aron cake's oil psi mod on the front and rear. the restrictor came with the oil feed line I bought from himni racing for 13bt. I have to take it out and measure.

Here are some pic

http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/z...pscs3zevzo.jpg
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/z...psaxym9hld.jpg
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps8gklzxus.jpg
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps8bjoiedy.jpg
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/z...psji74kbtq.jpg
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/z...psodl48mgt.jpg
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/z...psn5ccusxw.jpg

I did not taste any coolant from the exhaust puddle, but did taste coolant from the turbo inlet :egrin:

you say coolant puddle in the turbo inlet as well?

There is a slight green tint to it, but i can taste it.

If you just had the turbo rebuilt/replaced there should be warranty on it, why not just bring it back to the shop?

My guess is the seals in the turbo went kaput, whether from being put in incorrectly or the turbo sat for awhile and the seals dried up and got ate up

That turbo oil drain hose size looks pretty small diameter to me.

I had problems in the past with high oil pressure at idle and draining oil from the turbo fast enough on my stock hybrid even with an oil feed restrictor.

I took out the checkvalves in the rotor cooling jets on the e-shaft and put the competition jets. This lowers oil pressure at idle/low rpm significantly and stopped the smoking at idle. Since you don't want to rebuild the engine, try everything else first.

When I did an aftermarket turbo I used 5/8" ID fittings/hose for the turbo oil drain and didn't have any issues with that turbo (though it does have double oil seals).

If you get a bigger turbo oil drain on there and put some vacuum to the sump while running you can sometimes get the rear turbo oil seal to reseat and the front dynamic seal will naturally start working again- worked for me, its worth a try.

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The coolant.
Lets hope you are just smelling the coolant that is apparent there in the general area of the turbo inlet.

The coolant jacket on a turbo is very robust and quite rare to crack the turbo center housing so it leaks into your turbo bearing area or crack and leak through the front past the compressor back plate and into the turbo compressor area.

If there is coolant in the turbo inlet or oil it is more likely in my opinion blowing through the engine's cooling jacket into the sump/intake from a coolant seal failure.

The oil return is -10. Engine is rebuilt. I installed the turbo 2 years ago. Car just got done 1 month ago.

I would do bigger than -10 hose/fittings for a rotary because of our high oil pressure and flow and make sure you have really good sump ventilation.

-10 hose is .5625" ID and the fittings neck down ID from that nominal hose ID.

The 5/8" ID barb fittings/hose I used had the .625" as the tightest ID.

Not to harp on one thing, just letting you know what worked for me and my history with the same problems you are having.

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Do you also have a -3an feed line to the turbo oil inlet as well to aid in pressure drop to the turbo during high oil flow/pressure periods?

checked the restrictor today. it has .035. so I'm out of luck there.
it has -4an feed line.

I tried changing the oil. it seems to have helped, but not completely.

Switch to a -3an line

To those running -3an lines, which one are you guys running? It seems like finding the fittings, hose ends, and hose for -3an is PITA (when compared to -4an)

that's the problem I'm running into too. ^

i am using a 18" nitrous SS -3AN line, took it to a local hose shop and got the right fittings added

the size of line is not your issue.

the oil does not concern me the coolant does though.

Pull your turbo and check out the seals and chambers

How is the CHRA clock? Ideal is for the turbo feed to be at 12 o'clock and the drain at 6, how far off is that? If its too much it can cause drainage issues.

Like 7' o clock

well started to take stuff apart. guess what I found? when I assembled the engine I never put the damn o-ring that goes on the LIM/coolant passage. cuz I noticed coolant sizzling right above the manifold.
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps22sdktyi.jpg

https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/i...2LHaUyGKCDrBFA

there ya go, that would account for alot, easy fix

well I don't think that has anything to do with coolant/oil getting out of the turbo.

so, took the turbo out, clocked it in between 5-6 o' clock and used 5/8 id hose w/barb fittings for oil drain like blue tII said, left both engine vent at the oil filler neck open. and it has -3an oil feed. still the fucker smokes. wtf.

It can be hard to reseat the rear oil seal to get it to stop leaking.

I put my sump under vacuum (from the intake manifold) and managed to get one to reseat.

alright folks, have some good news, it look like the smoke I was getting after the work I have done was the left over oil that was puddled in the exhaust system b4. after I cleaned the tips and took it out and opened it up - it is now clear :D now there is h2o coming out rather than oil lol