fuel system upgrade as per reteds site.
 

Hey ted if your out there or if anyone has setup their system like teds parallel system, how much does this usually cost to set this up. I would not replace the lines from the tank I would start right at the engine bay. ALso how much line should I get for this, and what fpr should I get (non rr) because I will be getting a microtech to be doing everything for me. Thanks.

I do! messaged ya on AIM

thanks for the quick reply :)

good question
i am looking into this aswell.

Mine is similar, though I am replacing all lines from the tank forward (I'm running dual fuel pumps on a custom bracket, so I will be braided stainless/AN all the way from the inside of the tank). A quick cost estimate is roughly $650 Canadian (which includes a better filter with replacable element from Mallory).

Aaron: Might I suggest Russels nifty anodized aluminum tubing? I use that inplace of hardlines, then I come out to SS into my pump, (i'm using an aeromotive A1000, probably going to end up running two of them).

I haven't looked into it. Was just going to use stainless braided in a conduit. But I'll pull out my Russel catalog and take a look.

RUS-639280 - red anodized 1/2 OD, 25FT
RUS-639260 - red anodized 3/8, 25FT
RUS-639220 - 1/2 to -8AN female fitting
RUS-639200 - 3/8 to -6AN female fitting

All those are summit part #'s, that's the stuff I used, ended up costing less and looked a little cleaner.

wow this thread got further than I thought :) I think sonic talked me out of doing this just because I am only going to be pushing 400hp at the most so it would be kind of over kill. I think if I did do it I would go from fuel filer forward as a poor mans job. I think this would cost me right at 250 for the hole job. Not bad I guess and I would't have to worry about fuel lines busting etc... but I sure would like to go from tank forward just don't think I have the know how as far as that is conserned. I would love to use that Russels anodized aluminum tubing though, that would be icing :)

You should do at least the engine bay in SS, just not tank forward I think.

ok I'm going for it, my wife will kill me but my rotary will love me :) I'm a sick sick boy, lol.

Her and Hanna still need to make the wehatetherx7club.com website.

I just looked this stuff up in the Russel dealer catalog, and it says that the tube sleeves are not to be used in systems of greater then 25 PSI. So I'll likely just stick with the stainless braided.

ive done the parallel setup on my n/a and plan to do it to my turbo. contact me on aim

hahaha thats funny, she has been working on a website the past couple of days for something I bet it's for www.wehatetherx7club.com. :biggrin:

Mr. Cake, you are truely a mad scientist of the FC3S, one smart cookie.

Yeah, I think I pasted the wrong stuff, the stuff I got was rated to 200psi, thought for sure that was it (i didn't get it through summit, and saw that the other day and it fit the description, so I thought that was it), though mine does have welded on connectors.

I'd like to do the parallel setup as well, but is it worth it? With my current setup (T04B hybrid, Microtech LT8S, Walboro 255, ITO street port, Greddy FMIC, 720/1600CC, 3 inch DP to Greddy PE, etc) I plan to put down around 350 WHP..

If you're running a big turbo, the cost to upgrade to parallel fuel rails is relatively minor.
There are cheaper options that my original schematic.
One is to run those hoses that do not require the fancy AN ends; these use barbed ends that you just use a regular clamp (although Oetiker clamps and an Oetiker crimper tool are highly recommended).

You can try and contact a local refrigeration hose shop that should be able to get "generic" brass fittings you can use which will drastically drop the price of the fasteners and hose.

The big cost is the FPR itself.
An SX one is like almost $200, and so is the Aeromotive one.
You can get cheaper ones that use barbed fittings (i.e. OBX), which will also reduce the cost even further!


-Ted

P.S. - You're not supposed to be putting nicks in the subject line. :)

I forgot to add that i already have the SX regulator, with two inlets and one outlet..

I'm pretty sure i want to do the parrallel setup, i just don't know which swivel fittings to use on the fronts and rears of the rails. I gues i just need to look at which way i want to run the lines and where i want to put the regulator.

Thx.

Justin

First of all, figure out where you want the FPR to be positioned.
After that, everything else will call into place.

You can use generic hoses to "map" out the path of the new fuel lines.
Once that is taken care of (make sure you clear the bottom of the UIM!), it'll be obvious which fittings to go with, since most of the major AN fittings manufacturers (i.e. Earls, Russell, XRP) make several bend angles (i.e. straight, 45 / 90 / 135 /180 degree) fittings to accomodate your needs.
Try to keep the bends as minimal as possible: 45 is okay; 90 is okay; 135 and 180 try to stay away from as much as possible.


-Ted

Cool i'll do that..
Thanks.

Justin

Sorry ted :) I wasn't sure how to word the subject so that it would get your attention and others, lol. Anyways I'm going to take a look at some other simular setups in the engine pay pic threads and see what people use and where most fpr are located even though on fd's usually I see them in front of the manifold and on fc's most are behind the manifold on the fire wall. Any pics would be great! Thanks to project red suns for his pics just need a little better idea on a turbo engine rather than an n/a. Again sorry about the nick in the title :biggrin:

i was planning on using regular hi pressure fuel line and some simple brass fittings with clamps to do mine the cheap ass way. But for the s4 FPR.. when i take it off the rail what is the weird fitting needed to connect a hose to it?

I left it alone since without it, it's hard to reference what he's actually talking about. :D